Sunday, May 28, 2006

28May. We went to Da lat for a few days. It was a nice enough city up in the central highlands. Cooler than most other parts. Saw one water fall which was the only one we didn't want to see but there you go that is what tours are all about. It was supposed to be private but we were with Suong from Vietnam and Massimo from Italy via Austrialia. We got to walk behind it though and we avoided the caged animals. But saw some nice sites. Saw this crazy house. It is an hotel built by this russian trained architect. It is mad. Sort of disney meets alice and wonderland and then some. All curves and nooks and crannies and eagles and animals with a giant spiders web in the garden etc.
Now in Nha Trang. By the sea. Going snorkeling on a boat trip tomorrow. Apparently it is a party boat trip and there is a trip to a floating bar. whey hey....In a divers bar at the mo. Trying to find talent to look at. Alex is a dive master, so he is going to find some divers in the know as we want to go to a beach party. Be rude not to.....
We are on the coctails now and listening to Jack Johnson and many other classics. Had an imported strongbow. We have been hunting or actually trying to avoid any places selling egg and chips. Haven't found a place yet but we figure it is only a matter of time. Great beach though. Job defo not happening. So maybe will become a ski rep after all...Hmm some French..... or maybe some German... ah no Austrian... St Anton Here I come.... Mega Supa Wonderbar. Learned the first 2 bits from German Micheal but Alex and I can't remember the third bit so now have to find some German to teach me it again. Tis a tough life...
Alex has just given me a new phrase. Budgie smugglers. Speedos for the uninitiated. Cracks me up. We were discussing the finer points of thongs on the over 40's german males. Also when I was in Phu Quoc I told the boys about when we were in Egypt. How we pretended to be Swedish. Well Alex and I are now slapping our thighs and talking in very unconvincing Swedish accents. Also learned a few great phrases from the Swedish gang in Phu Quoc too so will have to try those out....Perke... So rude.... But need to talk to some more swedish to remember the rest. Ah what the bloody rhum does to your memory...

Thursday, May 25, 2006

May 25: Well no action guys. Although I'm sure someon is getting some. The weather is sweltering. Today had a fab day. Alex and I went on a tour today in Mui Ne. Fab beach area.. We each went on the back of a motorbike to some sand dunes and sleded down a few. The trip to the dunes was amazing. 35 KM each way. With v. little traffic and the best road ever along the coast with dunes on the left and beach/coast on the right. It was fab. Had do say slowly slowly a couple of times along a dirt track and a few tight corners and when we hit 90km/hr. but otherwise fab.
Had some problems emailing and sometimes the connections are so slow.
Graham, Get your ass out of there. Claudia/Moireen, Moira, Esther thanks for popping in. Mails on way when I have more time.

Friday, May 19, 2006

May 19: Am now in Phu Quoc. I rented a motorbike the 2nd day and went to this little hotsprings and to a fishing village. On my third day, we had a storm that has lasted 3 days and was pelting the beach and us. I have had several visits of a rat to my bungalow, so am not lonely at night. Had a few hugh flying beatles and a hugh spider also. To day a Praying Mantis landed on my hat which was conveniently enough on my head. Needless to say it was quickly discarded into a big puddle.
I have met some great people first of all 2 swedish people staying on the island for a few weeks (Agneta and Hans) then 2 london guys Max and Alex and a German guy, Micheal arrived on wednesday so we all got stranded in the restaurant near our hotel for the day and chatted for about 10 hrs. It was rather cosy as there were a lot of holes in the roof of the restaurant so not much dry area. So we all had to huddle around the one table. We could not go along the beach as the waves were up to our waist at times. We had a laugh though. We all then booked a taxi to take us around the island on one of the rainy days. We decided that a visit to the hot springs was in order but the hot springs had become a waterfall and a river. However we all went swimming in the waterfall anyway in the rain. It was a hoot. Thanks for comment ruth on the West ham captain. Am surprised that a 21 year old has heard let alone ready that book. Cool,even if he is a footballer.
For the last few nights we bought some rum and mixers and had cocktails on the beach or in the cafe depending on the weather. one night the rain happened so fast we went into my room and continued the gathering there. A scottish couple joined us too and another swedish couple. The group changes as people come and go. The last 2 days had much improved as the storm receded. So beautiful skys again but much of the beach has been ruined near us due to the storm.
24May. Today Most of the original gang had left including myself. I have hooked up with Alex and come back to Saigon for a few hours. We leave on a bus for Mui ne, a beach tonight and I carry on to Dalat for some more waterfalls either thur or fri. It was sad to leave the island and everyone I had met. It really was lovely despite the rats, bugs and shite weather.
Ciao
S

Monday, May 15, 2006

May 12:
Today I ventured into the 'xich lo' (cyclo) territory. This is a bicycle with a seat for the passenger. Sort of like a rickshaw but you are in front.
I went to see some fab pagodas both Vietnamese and Chinese. On the way home, my driver decided to take a shortcut. This necessitated going up the wrong side of the road on a dual carriageway equivalent. It was pretty invigorating, staring into the stampede of bikes coming directly at you. This old lady street vendor burst out laughing when she saw what he was doing. Else it was the look of sheer disbelief on my face, when I realised what he was up to. Another sweating experience...

May 13: Left Saigon for the Mekong Delta. We were driven to Mytho town where we went on a little motor boat and made our way along the river and it's canals. It was pretty good visiting various local industries along the way. Saw where Coconut candy (toffee) was made and got to try it and Banana whiskey (not bad). After wards 3 of us were delivered to a home stay. We stayed with this guy and his family in these reed/bamboo rooms looking on to the river. I wanted to try to go to Rach Gia which was on the brochure but not something many do so it creatd a bit of a problem. Note to self never do the unusual with tours. As a result had to stay in the homestay in the morning whilst the others went to the floating market. Of course they forgot me. The family invited me to lunch but the husband was missing so no one spoke english. So could not get anyone to sort me out. It was nice tho. I stayed on the balcony and watched the little rowboats go up and down selling their wares to the floating houses on the river. Instead of being in a hotel in Cantho, I ended up staying in the homestay another night. This time there were about 16 others.

May 15: Today we went to the floating market. Basically these rather large boats/barges which are also homes packed with pineapples and melons etc. ply their stock to the small rowboats. It was interesting. We then motored along the river to other cottage industries to see rice paper being made and a rice mill, paddy fields etc. A pretty good trip all in all, even if it did mean a wasted day.
I left all the others who were either heading back to Saigon or Cambodia. I ended up on a local bus with just Vietnamese which was so easy. I thougth it would be difficult but they are so friendly and I ended up sitting next to this business man who spoke English and he advised me what to do here and there.
Am now in Rach Gia. Have kind of gone where no one else seems to go. Walked around and I appear to be the only westerner here. So many people looking at me but it is a gentle curiosity. The kids, even some of the adults, just wave and say hello. They are so lovely. This guy passing on a motorbike, just kept looking back, like he couldnt believe his eyes.
It was funny. They don't hassle you to buy or take xe oms here as they don't seem to know what to do with me.
May 11:
Today, wandered around the posh area. My what shops. Found this really great shop with great hats and clothes. Now have a dress and 2 new hats.
I went to the War Remnants Museum. It was really amazing. Most of the museum is devoted to photographs. The first section was the war through the media with a biography of the photographer also. All photos displayed, were taken by war correspondends/photo journalists covering the Viet Nam war and before it escalated. What was amazing, was how close these photographers got to the action. One guy even leading a bunch of soldiers out of a particalar ambush but finally getting killed himself. There was a list of many of the photographers who had died during the war. 111 in all, with a photograph/Biography. Whilst I was there, there was a massive thunderstorm. At first I thougth it was some movie, as it sounded like bombfire it was that loud and near. It added to the general air of the museum in a surreal way. Photographers were from both sides and were of many nationalities. Some of the photographs had been on the cover of 'Life' Magazine with the magazines displayed.

The weird thing was, quite a few had survived most of the war in Vietnam but ended up getting killed on Route 1(?) in Cambodia by the Khymer Rouge when the action moved near the border towards the war end. Many of their comments/story lines were included. Some of the photographs were from the final reels taken by them. which were found on their dead bodies. Pretty sobering.

Another section was on the war crimes (with photos and biographies of the many villagers mostly kids and women who were killed unnecessarily and visciously) and Agent orange effects. The Vietnames victims, either those that came directly in contact with it or who gave birth to kids with birth defects have taken the manufacturers to court. I believe they find out in the next few months if they have won etc. It is heartbreaking to see the photos of children with missing limbs etc. Much worse than Thalidomide. I came out just dumbfounded.

Having overcome street crossing, I have now started exploring other avenues of transport. I took a Xe om (You get on the back of a motorbike with the driver in front). That proved ok bit dodgy along some streets but gave a different perspective from within the traffic. Pretty nifty.

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Sunday May 7: Arrived in Ho Chi Minh City, A.k.a. Saigon. I got a taxi to the hotel and wasn’t ripped off. Result! I am now resident in back packer land. “Pham Ngu Lao”.
It is even hotter and stickier than in Singapore. Monday I went out with the idea of walking around. I got to this rather wide street at a crossroads and just couldn’t cross. I tried to watch the pattern of the traffic but kept being interrupted by guys trying to get me to go on their bikes. Or tours. It was mayhem. Bikes coming from every angle and sometimes up the wrong side. So I scuttled off to the nearest internet café to check the lonely Planet (LP) site. I have never been defeated by a road. There is advice in the LP: Walk slowly and look the oncoming traffic straight in the eye. DON’T Run. So I booked on a tour for Tuesday. I just couldn’t face the traffic.
Tue 9: Went to see the Cu Chi tunnels and a Cao Dao temple. Tunnels were amazing. Tiny. To think there were 250km of these tunnels and the Cu Chi people lived here, to escape the bombing raids, Nepalm etc. or to ambush the S. Vietnamese or US troups. One of the entrances was barely a foot wide. We had a fab guide called Slim Jim who shouted Slainte, when we had our tea. Bless. He fought for the S. Vietnamese and was a English teacher for 25 yrs. Before giving it all up to set up a travel agency. I think he is doing well.
Met some nice people on the tour tho. Finally got to have some conversations. One guy from Singapore worked for GW and now works for Merck. Small world eh. Another guy (Eric from Paris) is staying in Saigon for 3 wks., with some Vietnamese friends who have moved back after years in Paris. They have opened a restaurant (Nomad: Fusion cooking). So Eric gave me the details and I ventured away from Pham Ngu Lao via taxi to the other side of the district. Lovely restaurant and great food. Eric joined me later outside the restaurant for iced tea and we had a good natter. I taught him a few new words which also tested my capacity to explain them. Try and define “glow” vs Sparkle. He gave up his job too. Through our discussions, we found out, we worked for a very similar type of company. It was funny to swap stories.

Wed 10. I decided I had to face the traffic. The challenge was set. So off I went, LP book in hand. At one stage the lights were red when I started walking but half way across a rather wide road, they turned green. There I was in the middle of a herd of rampaging, thunderous motorbikes. Over a 100 gunning for me. Boy did I mutter some choice expletives. The sweat didn’t just trickle, it ran rivers. The tourist policeman was blowing his whistle to help me. I think he heard. So after that it was more or less a piece of cake. Although you could have squeezed my t-shirt.

I headed to this tranquil park to wind my nerves down. It was lovely and cool and this elderly gentleman walking past, stopped to have a chat (and wasn’t selling anything). He apologized for not stopping for longer, but had to be elsewhere. How sweet was that!! It reminded me of this lovely lady in Singapore who, when I got caught in the rain whilst at a bus stop, offered me her umbrella knowing, she would not get it back. I declined but such generosity.
I walked around a good few streets today and got a better feel for the city. I ended up in the medical centre to have my 2nd Japanese Encephalitis vaccine, only to overhear this poor Aussie chap come in to arrange to see the Dr. re: a test for STDs. The Dr., much to my disappointment, was discreet enough to take the chap away to continue questioning.

Tonight I tried a traditional Vietnamese restaurant. I ordered beef boiled in coconut. A simple enough request you would think. Pah!
This burner comes out with a pot on top of it. Then raw beef, salad and rice noodles. I’m looking and thinking, I’m supposed to do what with this? So after some explanation from a few Vietnamese customers and 3 waiting staff, I realize I have a dish that is a cross between a fondue and fajitas. All this on a very public street table. So beef gets boiled in pot then lettuce, cucumber and mint leaves gets put on this round rice paper (similar to a tortilla) but actually looks like and tastes like plastic (until you roll all the ingredients, including the cooked beef in the rice paper and dip it into the chilli dressing. All very delicious but buggers up the advice to boil it, cook it, peel it or forget it.

So I await the next few hours with trepidation. Hence my predilection for ensuite bathrooms. I have refrained from organizing a tour on the off chance but also because I have to post some books and stuff home to dad as they wont fit in my bag if I buy even the slightest thing. Bad packing.

By the way am getting into Asian literature. Presently reading the Art of War, written only a few thousand years ago but used as the basis for many a military campaign, selling or management. “Shanghai Baby” set in 1990’s Shanghai strangely enough, and “The world of Suzie Wong” written and set in 1950’s Hong Kong.
Today I read a New York Times internet article about “The lover” which apparently was set in Saigon (a true story, filmed a few years ago. (http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/04/30/travel/30footstep.html?pagewanted=1). The author tries to retrace the steps of a 15yr olds affair with a 27 yr old in 1950’s Saigon. So have printed this out to follow for tomorrow maybe. Another book I have to add to my collection.

Saturday, May 06, 2006



5-6May: Ann Happy B'day. Well I've been getting into the culture here, I walked around Chymes and the CBD/colonial district yesterday. They have some fab sculptures of old Singaporean kids jumping into the river and old merchants by the quay. All lifesize. And another with a cat and 2 kittens. Really cute. Even been to the cinema a few times. Went to see MI3 and Where the Truth lies (Pretty interesting with Colin Firth and Kevin Bacon, as you have never seen them before. Trust me. 70's mustache to boot).
However, I have to drag myself away from this beautiful city. I took a last walk down Boat Quay and had dinner and said my good bye to the beautiful view. Tonight had to go to the airport to book my flight. I tried the internet and the phone but to no avail so went in person. Had to burn my photos onto a cd in case I run out of gb or in case the camera gets broken etc. I should arrive in Ho Chi Minh City otherwise known as Saigon by early afternoon Sunday. My bag even heavier (and it was heavy) than when I left London. Have discarded a pair of flipflops already.
PS.Thanks to all those that left comments I will get back to you one by one. By the way who is oizwin tho? Ruth J, Thanks for my next cocktail venture... 2yrs Alison, Ouch...

Thursday, May 04, 2006

The heat here is sweltering. Hi temp, hi humidity. oh my fave. am soooo sticky. Well I finally got inside the Vietnamese Embassy and I can now book my flight to vietnam. Wey Hey. I collect my visa tomorrow. Will stay in Singapore til sat morning. Still a few more things to see. Walked around Chinatown and Little India today. It was really fab. The beautiful old buildings are amazing. Many are very brightly painted and most have all the shutters intact over the windows. I just walked around for hours. But needed to cool down and found a cheap internat cafe so here I am. It must have been amazing in the 30's. I guess I have a picture of old Singapore in my head from watching Bruce Boxleightner in that 80's program that I can't remember the name of. But he used be at Raffles all the time and it was set in the 30's and he was sort of a detective. I digress. Anyway. the mixtures of cultures is amazing. It is funny to see a whole street of Indian restaurants and then a little chinese one in the middle. The colours and smells are icredibly vivid. Some vegetables are so huge. Some of which I've never seen or maybe not for a long time and I can't remember. Stepping into Little India was like being in Goa or Delhi again. There is such an atmosphere there and the music transports you to a different place.
Anyway back to my flight bookings. Ciao

Wednesday, May 03, 2006

Apr26. got told today by the agency that the job might not happen. The guy who was hiring me said he had to draw the line. The merger and organizational issues are talking alonger than they thought. No surprises there. I was expecting this. I will know more May 11th. Ever the optimist, I still feel it might go ahead.

Well I finally left old Blighty. Although I didn’t think I was going to what with the above news and then some and.... In my panic got the terminal wrong. Got the one I was flying into. Only the second time ever and I had to do it today. So that was my three in a row. Bless Ruth for dropping me off... twice… and for seeing me off. It was really nice to have someone there. It was just one of those days where things just went wrong and wrong and wrong.

Apr 27. Arrived in Singapore in one piece. Got into a taxi and gave address of hotel, I booked online. Ha! the driver told me that I should get another hotel. I thought he was only trying to get commission. He wasn’t… I am in the center of brothel by the way. No mention of it in the guidebooks but my hotel is right smack in the center of the red light district. Lonely planet refers to Geylang as an interesting suburb. Oh Yeah, it sure is. Usually in the evenings there are about 40 or so prostitutes in or around the area to the side of the hotel. Oh the joy. So all the taxi drivers who bring me there tell me I should move as they say I will be looked at. It makes me laugh. It is all very safe just a little letchy some evenings. Although I think they are used to me now. I thought about getting in on the action. I could go for the exotic look I.e. all pale and interesting. But I think my ping pong skills wouldn’t be up to it, let alone the rest of me.. So I take the taxi home but the train out during the day. Even found a book on the area. So might buy that, it about stories from the girls who frequent it. So much for Singapore being all squeaky clean. I’ll have words…All very amusing.

Apr 28-May 1. Slept for the most of the first 3 days or so. I can’t get up before 3/4pm. The jet lag is the worst I’ve had. Or maybe it’s been all the stress of the last 8 yrs. Which ever. I am knackered. I took the tourist hopper around the 3 routes they have here. China Town, Little India and the Colonial/business area. I just stayed on the buses the whole day and went around a few times on each route. Too tired to walk. It was great. It really is a beautiful city. It is magnificent by night too. Especially down by the Quays. They have all been cleaned up by the way. Boat Quay (better choice of restaurants) is my favourite. It is slightly more eastern than Clarke’s Quay (which has great bars). Took some nice shots at night with my new tripod. This German guy passing gave me tips on not using my flash. Bless.
I decided to visit the beauticians for hair cut etc. oh the palava. Lets just say they are not used to Caucasian women. And now I have really short hair too.

May 2. I am finally getting over the jetlag, so am making it out by 10am. Went to Raffles for a Singapore Sling last night. It was ok. I guess I thought the bar would be nicer but…
Hey NOW… I’ve had my Singapore sling in Singapore, my Manhatten in Manhatten, my Mai Tai in Thailand, my Bellini in Harry’s bar in Venice. Anyone have any ideas about any more I can add to my cocktail quest? This can’t be it surely??????
Oh Yea, got chatted up in the taxi queue by this Singaporean business man who gave me his business card (Director of a business school no less in China and Singapore and so on). About 10 yrs older but hey I still got it… Could always ask him for a job.

May 3. Tomorrow I try for my Vietnam visa. I had to go searching for the embassy it is almost off the island it is that far from the center. Another palava as had to search for it online, then go to the visitors center for a map and then try and find it. It took the whole day. but now I know where it is.
Had my Japanese encephalitis vaccine today. I have completed my shopping, medical and otherwise now except for a pair of flip flops. The shopping here is amazing. Soooooooooo many nice things and much of it cheap. The real bummer is I can’t buy anything as have no room in my bag and don’t want to carry it all around. So I might just post a bit home…
Nearly ready to leave here.

I could so live here for a while. Must look up the jobs site...
I am trying to think up ways of becoming a millionaire. So please pass your ideas on. Jay hope you read this...