Viva colonial, UFOs and losses.

12 feb. Alex and I set off for Sao Joao del Rei. Pretty little town. We went to this place recommended by our guide book as family run pousada. Well it was family run. This little old couple had it and could not understand Alex´s Portuguese. Their son/granson repeated everything Alex said and they then understood. It was a little weird, in a funny way. Religious statues were everywhere and you felt you had returned to Brazil circa 1955. But we stayed and it was so cheap. We wandered a little around the old town then found this restaurant and had our fill. Next day we got the bus to Tres Coracoes, and a few hours later, the bus for Sao Thome das Letras, our destination. This was recomended in Footprint. We ended up in this mining(slate/stone) town in the mountains. It was quite male dominant at first but I guess that was to be expected. On wandering around,we found some quite cute shops and restaurants. Although most were closed. Apparently it gets busy during the weekends... Well we wandered around looking for witches stones and UFOs. Allegedlyly, Sao Thome has the most UFO sightings. Strangely enough we saw nothing except afew water tanks that were painted to resemble UFOs and a hostel called ET with a little ET on the roof. We did find this place which had old bricks with which you could make designs. I did the CND sign and Alex did a hand with a V sign.As we had exhausted the supply of tourist sights and open businesses, we took the first morning bus out of there We returned to Tres Coracoes (where Pele was born). As we had a few hours to kill, we went in search of a possible Pele monument, strangely we found it, in the centre of the commercial area in a little park named after their hero. It was a nice stature of Pele with the four sides of the pedastal/base covered in the dates of the world cups that Pele had played in.We got back to Sao Joao and went to dine in this lovely restaurant. We even got wine. It was lovely.

15 Feb
This morning Alex exclaimed the fact that he and I, had been out on Valentines night (last night) in a posh restaurant oblivious to it´s significance. Neither of us had ever done that in any of our relationships or want to, as we don,t celebrate Valentines. We had to laugh. We went to the Sao Joao train station, took in the railway museum, including a working selection of steam engines. Ten 3
Thirty we boarded this really cute steam engine to Tiradentes. Oh it was so gorgeous. The driver had to really let some steam out, to get out of the town and all the cars in the centre of town had to wait to let the train pass. People on their morning walks or with kids waved and watched the little train. It was soooo lovely. The views were gorgeous too. Tiradentes was really pretty and quaint. Named after the martyred hero Joaquim Jose da Silva Xavier, both poet and dentist, nicknamed Tiradentes (tooth-puller). A really picturesque, photogenic, colonial town. Again lots of arts and crafts and restaurants but pretty. ................ My camera was full of photos of steam filled pictures and steam trains. God I can be such a trainspotter. But I just love going on trains and more especially steam trains. But by 3 we had seen it all and still had to wait til 5 for the return train. So we went to the chocolate cafe. hmmm hmmm. lovely got some lovely chocs and chocolate drinks. 16Feb, we took the bus to Congonhas. This to see the famous basilica do Bom Jesus de Matisinhos designed by Brazils answer to Michelangelo. Aleijadinho son of a Portuguese merchant and African slave.

Oh my god but the sculptures were amazing. The were so realistic but not glamourised but were real everyday people and even though some of the scenes were the stations of the cross, the stautes were portrayed as if it were everyday life.

The artist and art would be incredible enough with a fully abled body but this artist lost the use of his hands and legs at the age of 30, so had a hammer and chisel tied to the stumps so he could continue his work. Makes you think doesn´t it.
We then tried to get to Ouro Preto. What a nightmare. Alex´s book said there was a new highway from Congonhas. Er no.My book said there were 3-5 daily buses from this town (Conselheiro La Faiete) near Congonhas. Well there were only 3 and that was per weekend and we had just missed the one on saturday.We were well and truly stuck for 8 hours in this rather modern town with few redeeming factors. But at least I got all my photos onto my ipod in the local internet cafe.We gave up on the idea of seeing Ouro Preto and Diamantina. We had overdosed on colonial towns and buses.We got back to Sao Paulo and stayed in the same hostel, we had stayed earlier.
17FebNext day, we booked our ticket to Salvador, did a little sight seeing and even managed a few museums like the Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo. We then met Vivian for a short while and got Alex´s credit card. Fab we were on our way. 18 Feb, arrived 6am at the hostel in Salvador after a 32 hour bus ride. Phew. We went to sleep. We have a nice hostel near the sea. Nice area. I needed time out so stayed in the hostel all day. I just felt shattered. We had been in so many towns and buses over the last few days, I just didnt want to move anymore. Alex did a bit of sightseeing. 19 Feb
Next day we went to Pelourinho. The major sight in Salvador. We walked all the way from the beach to the historical town. It took us over an hour and a half, but worth it. We saw a good bit of Salvador. as we passed by a few neighbourhoods and some impresive colonial buildings and parks. Pelourinho was pretty. Again very touristy, with the prerequisite arts and crafts shops and restaurants. Still it was lovely and well maintained, except some of the outer fringes, which were in the process of restoration. At least tourist money is of some use and helps preserve this beautiful Pòrtuguese/Brazilian architecture.
20Feb
Today we went to a few more historical sites including this church (Ingreha NS de Bonfim) renowned for its miracles. There is a room off the church, the walls of which, are covered in fotos with notes attached. The ceiling has plactic arms, legs etc hanging from it, again with notes. These are all from people with problems in these areas requesting miracles from Bonfim otherwise known as christ, I guess... I had taken some fotos and we headed to this fort 20mins walk away. When I went to get my camera, I realised it had gone. I ran back to the church and retraced my steps. I just dont know what happend to it. My bag may not have been shut and it may have been taken. I dont know. I did know I was not happy. I was bereft. I felt naked without my camera. Devastated.cShit.
That evening the hostel had a traditional bahian food night. So myself and my French Roommate, Agnes, ate here. After the owner of the hostel joined us for some food as did Alex. The owner then heard this Argentinian guest playing guitar in another room and invited him in whislt taking over the guitar. This 40+ owner just belted out songs in French, Spanish, English and of course Portuguese. The Argentinian and he took turns playing. Agnes also had good rhythm and played the bongo and again the others took it in turn to play that also. Some older Brazilian guests came also and did a little dancing and singing and chatting. It was a really fab evenings entertainment and helped less the negative effects of my loss.

21Feb.
So today I spent searching for the tourist police for a police report for my camera insurance claim. Not too bad actually and the policeman who helped me was sweet and spoke a little English which eased the pain. Agnes had joined me and we chatted on the way. It turns out she is regular to Brazil and studies capoiera and works as an assistant director in French Film in Paris whilst living on a house boat. A really cool girl but not in the least pretentious or trying to be cool. After I went in search of the federal police to see what state my passport was in. It only took 4 hours of walking and asking directions, even of the military police, who hadn´t a clue by the way. AND after all THAT the gits at the gate wouldnt let me in. AAAAAAAAaaarrrrrrrrggggghhh
22. Feb; Alex and I went to the bus station booked our tickets onwards and left our luggage. Neither of us could be bothered navigating back into town so stayed in the shopping mall for 8 hours. At one cafe we sat at. We saw these shop girls getting all gigly and rushing out of their shop. They returned dragging this 20something guy and proceeded to take fotos with him etc. We could not figure out what he was but we guessed it was big brother or some boy band. Having escaped albeit reluctantly, he was then waylaid by another gaggle of girls in another shop.
He had 2 friends, who seem bemused at the fuss their friend caused and then bored of it.