Er in case you hadnt guessed. I am in Quetzaltenango otherwise known as Xela in Guatemala. 7 weeks now... with 3 weeks inbetween to visit Mexico.
12Nov.
After a 12hour overnighter, I got to Tuxtla about 6.30am. But got damned as the next bus out to Comitan was at 10.30. I tried to get a collectivo which would have been a lot cheaper and quicker but no such luck. When I asked no one knew what I was talking about. I had to bite the bullet and pay for a 1st class ticket I didn’t even need. Balls. I then realised, that we were going to San Christobal. If I had known I was heading there I could have taken a direct bus there the night before instead of Tuxtla and stayed in San Cristobal and seen it as it is supposed to be beautiful but I didn’t have a guidebook so had no clue and it was the slow, indirect bus I was now on double bad whammy. So I got to the border, hours after I though I would or needed to.
At the border, I realised I had to pay 20 dollars to Mexican customs. I screwed up by saying I didn’t know if I was coming back. If I had been I don’t think I would have been charged. I had forgotten that. But I just didn’t know what to say. I had almost enough in pesos. I ran out of immigration and bumped in to this Mexican named Isreal, also trying to cross the border. He asked if I wanted to share a taxi to the Guatemalan border so I said yes but I would pay in Guatemalan quetzals, if he lent me the Mexican equivalent. He agreed, so I was able to pay my exit tax. More lost money. aaaaaaarrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhh
He spoke Brilliant English so we had a good chat. This was his first time ever leaving Mexico or travelling alone. He only had about 7 or 8 days.
We crossed the border and got a bus almost immediately for Huehuetenango (Huehue). However, the bus broke down about 30 minutes from Huehue. And I mean broke down. There were bits of the undercarriage and oil along the road. The poor bus driver. So we got on the next bus about 20 of us. With me being the only non latino. None of those that got on wanted to pay again as they had already paid and our first bus driver said it was unnecessary.
They say the Mayans are quite timid but this lady, my god but she was assertive and was the spokes person for all of us. One tough cookie… It was fab. None of us paid. She put all the men to shame. All the locals had a laugh about it and there was a lot of respect for this lady.
Well we got to Huehue about 6pm, it was dark and no more buses were running. So we had to stay in Huehue. We found a nice hostel and after a bit of a walk around, found a nice restaurant for dinner. This was Israel’s first dinner abroad.
After a 12hour overnighter, I got to Tuxtla about 6.30am. But got damned as the next bus out to Comitan was at 10.30. I tried to get a collectivo which would have been a lot cheaper and quicker but no such luck. When I asked no one knew what I was talking about. I had to bite the bullet and pay for a 1st class ticket I didn’t even need. Balls. I then realised, that we were going to San Christobal. If I had known I was heading there I could have taken a direct bus there the night before instead of Tuxtla and stayed in San Cristobal and seen it as it is supposed to be beautiful but I didn’t have a guidebook so had no clue and it was the slow, indirect bus I was now on double bad whammy. So I got to the border, hours after I though I would or needed to.
At the border, I realised I had to pay 20 dollars to Mexican customs. I screwed up by saying I didn’t know if I was coming back. If I had been I don’t think I would have been charged. I had forgotten that. But I just didn’t know what to say. I had almost enough in pesos. I ran out of immigration and bumped in to this Mexican named Isreal, also trying to cross the border. He asked if I wanted to share a taxi to the Guatemalan border so I said yes but I would pay in Guatemalan quetzals, if he lent me the Mexican equivalent. He agreed, so I was able to pay my exit tax. More lost money. aaaaaaarrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhh
He spoke Brilliant English so we had a good chat. This was his first time ever leaving Mexico or travelling alone. He only had about 7 or 8 days.
We crossed the border and got a bus almost immediately for Huehuetenango (Huehue). However, the bus broke down about 30 minutes from Huehue. And I mean broke down. There were bits of the undercarriage and oil along the road. The poor bus driver. So we got on the next bus about 20 of us. With me being the only non latino. None of those that got on wanted to pay again as they had already paid and our first bus driver said it was unnecessary.
They say the Mayans are quite timid but this lady, my god but she was assertive and was the spokes person for all of us. One tough cookie… It was fab. None of us paid. She put all the men to shame. All the locals had a laugh about it and there was a lot of respect for this lady.
Well we got to Huehue about 6pm, it was dark and no more buses were running. So we had to stay in Huehue. We found a nice hostel and after a bit of a walk around, found a nice restaurant for dinner. This was Israel’s first dinner abroad.
13Nov
I got the bus to Xela, Isreal came as far as Quatro Caminos so he could carry on to Lake Atitlan.
I got to the hostel after a cheap ride on the collectivo from Terminal Minerva. Lori was there and it was good to see her. She kindly cooked me dinner, that helped. Realised I lost my little purse, either when I was leaving the collectivo or left it on the table here and it was stolen. That is a real pain, as my keys to my padlock, on my rucksack was in it and a little money. More lost money. Don’t seem to be having much luck with money at the moment.
It feels really weird to be back. Gina has gone to El Salvador and Michelle has rented an apartment. Joan has gone to the states. So that just leaves Lori, Julia and Andrew. There are loads of new people here now, many have been here for weeks so have bonded. I feel a complete stranger and not sure I will fit in at all.
Well I decided not to take any Spanish classes. I am now studying by myself. I really needed to study my verbs, as paying someone to correct me on things I already know but can’t remember easily is painful. I have taken up salsa again too. There is a guy, Matt, He is just a beginner but the others here are way ahead, so we have ended up partnering each other. I tried some of the local guys but it just isn’t benefiting me. Matt and I can hash out a step etc and correct each other. The best thing is we have a laugh which makes the class go quicker and a lot easier.
16Nov
Graces birthday today. Happy Birthday!!!!
I got the bus to Xela, Isreal came as far as Quatro Caminos so he could carry on to Lake Atitlan.
I got to the hostel after a cheap ride on the collectivo from Terminal Minerva. Lori was there and it was good to see her. She kindly cooked me dinner, that helped. Realised I lost my little purse, either when I was leaving the collectivo or left it on the table here and it was stolen. That is a real pain, as my keys to my padlock, on my rucksack was in it and a little money. More lost money. Don’t seem to be having much luck with money at the moment.
It feels really weird to be back. Gina has gone to El Salvador and Michelle has rented an apartment. Joan has gone to the states. So that just leaves Lori, Julia and Andrew. There are loads of new people here now, many have been here for weeks so have bonded. I feel a complete stranger and not sure I will fit in at all.
Well I decided not to take any Spanish classes. I am now studying by myself. I really needed to study my verbs, as paying someone to correct me on things I already know but can’t remember easily is painful. I have taken up salsa again too. There is a guy, Matt, He is just a beginner but the others here are way ahead, so we have ended up partnering each other. I tried some of the local guys but it just isn’t benefiting me. Matt and I can hash out a step etc and correct each other. The best thing is we have a laugh which makes the class go quicker and a lot easier.
16Nov
Graces birthday today. Happy Birthday!!!!Amanda, an American girl arrived for a few days and took Lori, Andrew and I on this beautiful walk up to one of the hills around Xela. We walked for about an hour up through some nice countryside to Baul. At the top was a pagoda and a rather large cross. The views across the city were amazing.
We then found the giant slides. Of course we had to have a go. So we took turns taking photos of us coming down like a bunch of kids. It was such a laugh. I did manage to graze my elbow when I let it lower, as I was speeding down. And Lori ended up going into one of the other lanes. So it was a bit risky but oh such fun…The area has lovely pagodas for families wishing to come up here for picnics and a BBQ. It also had a memorial to the first woman who climbed the active volcano nearby.
Over the last 3 weeks many have passed through the hostel although many have stayed. I met a lovely girl called Hele from Wolverhampton and it was great to meet a cool English person. She laughed when I said flipping heck over something so we bonded as she felt at home too. It made a difference having someone form Europe here. Also 2 Irish girls came through. Lori told me about them and in my head I thought ah would it be funny if they were from Kinsale and imagined the conversation. When I met them I was sort of shocked as both Amba and Carly now live in Kinsale, bizarre or what.
I have begun to make friends again here. There is a pretty good bunch of people here. Megan, Kaliegh, Bill, Matt and Mary from the US. Ashley from Canada which I seem to get on best with lately. Michelle also pops by with her boyfriend Andrew. And of course Leite and Hilda are still here. Melvyn, Hilda´s brother now works her too instead of Francisco. He is sweet. I gave a few English lessons to Leite and Melvyn for a few days. Which I must start again.
25Nov
I have begun to make friends again here. There is a pretty good bunch of people here. Megan, Kaliegh, Bill, Matt and Mary from the US. Ashley from Canada which I seem to get on best with lately. Michelle also pops by with her boyfriend Andrew. And of course Leite and Hilda are still here. Melvyn, Hilda´s brother now works her too instead of Francisco. He is sweet. I gave a few English lessons to Leite and Melvyn for a few days. Which I must start again.
25Nov
Lori moved to a room in an apartment block so she could live with Guatemalans and speak more Spanish. Although she is not totally happy there. She is a bit of nervous soul and on her first day was told by a Dutch girl also living there, that some of the other inhabitants steal portions of food from other peoples leftovers when left in the communal fridge. Also one of the occupants is a drunk, who comes by each night to knock on the Dutch girls door and of her Belgian friend´s door also. This nearly freaked the life out of Lori. Especially when she found out that the Dutch girl had received a letter from said drunk, asking her to spend her last night with him as he has been in love with her since she arrived. Oops.
We hit the blue angel every now and then to watch a movie. Recently saw “Frida” again. It was such a beautiful movie.
One night, I went solo to see a movie on the creator of Bossa Nova. I was the only one there watching the movie. It was pretty spectacular and I really need to research his music more and buy some as I totally love bossa Nova.
Wednesday nights and Friday nights we hit the salsa clubs. La Parranda or La Rumba. A lot of the long-term hostel guests are learning salsa and Spanish, so it is nice to have someone to go out with.
22Nov
We hit the blue angel every now and then to watch a movie. Recently saw “Frida” again. It was such a beautiful movie.
One night, I went solo to see a movie on the creator of Bossa Nova. I was the only one there watching the movie. It was pretty spectacular and I really need to research his music more and buy some as I totally love bossa Nova.
Wednesday nights and Friday nights we hit the salsa clubs. La Parranda or La Rumba. A lot of the long-term hostel guests are learning salsa and Spanish, so it is nice to have someone to go out with.
22Nov
Lori and I went to El Cuartito, this will be one of our favourite bars, I think. It had a band there playing Cuban trova among other music types.
25Nov Well finally the gang got to go to Fonda Del Che. A bar covered in Che Guevara memorabilia. Of course I am going to love this. As I am now in my 3rd of Che´s diaries. There was an excellent guitarist playing Trova. I preferred it there than El Cuartito but the atmosphere is good in both. So will have to go more often.
27Nov
Well as we have so many Americans staying at the hostel we decided to cook a dinner there for all guests. However, turns out the oven doesn’t work. So that put paid to that. There is an organisation here called Quetzaltrekkers. This is a totally volunteer organisation that organises hikes for tourists in quetzaltenango(Xela). They also organise benefit dinners etc. All the money except for the director’s salary, goes to a school for street kids or kids that need to be schooled but cant be in their own home villages so have to stay at the school midweek. All the volunteers work for free. So we decided to go there for thanksgiving dinner and give our money to a good cause. We had a lovely evening, the food was great even though there wasn’t a turkey in sight. All vegetarian food. Although, for those used to pumpkin pie, there were a few complaints as to the quality.
I met one volunteer, an Irish girl some time back. She came over with some extra helpings of garlic mashed potatoes to all us Irish. It was so sweet and funny. So being the good Irish cailin I am, I managed another large helping. They were sooooo good.
We all then went to La Parranda for some 80s/90s music which disappointed. But Matt and I ended up talking to this really cool American girl one age with me and had a laugh. Laurie is a photographer and has moved to Xela indefinitely.
28Nov.
We all went to La Rumba. Best salsa club in town, well in my opinion. Got to dance with one of the teachers, Byron, from a Spanish school. A great dancer even if he was a foot smaller than I. A real sweetie though. Had a dance with Andrew, he is really good. Matt and I tried to dance a few dances but we hit the meringue or some other type of dance and failed miserably, oh well next time.
29Nov
25Nov Well finally the gang got to go to Fonda Del Che. A bar covered in Che Guevara memorabilia. Of course I am going to love this. As I am now in my 3rd of Che´s diaries. There was an excellent guitarist playing Trova. I preferred it there than El Cuartito but the atmosphere is good in both. So will have to go more often.
27Nov
Well as we have so many Americans staying at the hostel we decided to cook a dinner there for all guests. However, turns out the oven doesn’t work. So that put paid to that. There is an organisation here called Quetzaltrekkers. This is a totally volunteer organisation that organises hikes for tourists in quetzaltenango(Xela). They also organise benefit dinners etc. All the money except for the director’s salary, goes to a school for street kids or kids that need to be schooled but cant be in their own home villages so have to stay at the school midweek. All the volunteers work for free. So we decided to go there for thanksgiving dinner and give our money to a good cause. We had a lovely evening, the food was great even though there wasn’t a turkey in sight. All vegetarian food. Although, for those used to pumpkin pie, there were a few complaints as to the quality.
I met one volunteer, an Irish girl some time back. She came over with some extra helpings of garlic mashed potatoes to all us Irish. It was so sweet and funny. So being the good Irish cailin I am, I managed another large helping. They were sooooo good.
We all then went to La Parranda for some 80s/90s music which disappointed. But Matt and I ended up talking to this really cool American girl one age with me and had a laugh. Laurie is a photographer and has moved to Xela indefinitely.
28Nov.
We all went to La Rumba. Best salsa club in town, well in my opinion. Got to dance with one of the teachers, Byron, from a Spanish school. A great dancer even if he was a foot smaller than I. A real sweetie though. Had a dance with Andrew, he is really good. Matt and I tried to dance a few dances but we hit the meringue or some other type of dance and failed miserably, oh well next time.
29Nov There was protest against violence, kidnappings and extortion today in Xela. There was a good turn out. Many all in white as they had been asked to and had been given 
white t-shirts by the ex-guerrilla radio that is still in existence since the war years. About 14 or so taxi drivers were involved. All with messages, written on their cars.I listened to the speeches and was able to understand a lot, especially the priests, as they are used to speaking in public, and therefore speak more slowly. There was an award given to one child (all of 10 or so years) . She stood up there and spoke like a professional.
white t-shirts by the ex-guerrilla radio that is still in existence since the war years. About 14 or so taxi drivers were involved. All with messages, written on their cars.I listened to the speeches and was able to understand a lot, especially the priests, as they are used to speaking in public, and therefore speak more slowly. There was an award given to one child (all of 10 or so years) . She stood up there and spoke like a professional. Andrew leaves tomorrow. Supposed to go out but we all stayed in the kitchen chatting. Matt bought this girls suede jacket. He is so tall with this girlie jacket that it makes quite a sight. But he has a laugh with it. He tried on a hat and scarf and he decided he needed some rather large white sunglasses to complete the retro 70´s look. He bought the jacket with the intention of using it for a week, then trading it in with some cash and get a super duper rain jacket he has been trying to buy for 2 weeks. He has tried to get the owner of the shop to reduce her price but she wont. He thinks if he wears her down she will give in. I’m putting my money on the owner.
30Nov. An English couple (Rob and Charlotte) moved in, as well as an
English girl Eve, They invited us to go on a visit to San Andreas Xecul for the festival of I thin the patron saint of the town. So Matt, Jenny a German girl and I went with them all. We were almost the only tourists there. It was really lovely.
30Nov. An English couple (Rob and Charlotte) moved in, as well as an
English girl Eve, They invited us to go on a visit to San Andreas Xecul for the festival of I thin the patron saint of the town. So Matt, Jenny a German girl and I went with them all. We were almost the only tourists there. It was really lovely. It was a really Mayan town so most people were in traditional clothes. They didn’t seem to mind us and were as curious about us, as we were about them. It was a really lovely day. The town is famous for its amazing coloured church, where the angels have blue boots. In the plaza, outside the church, stood a huge Ferris wheel and 2 smaller ones. Loads of stalls as usual were constructed around the place. I got separated fro a while from the others as I was trying to get a good foto of th
e start of the parade. I then realised I had run out of battery and had forgotten to transfer the spare battery to my bag this morning. I was gutted. Luckily, I met Matt who was trying to do the same as I and he agreed to give me his photos. Still I would love to have had my own.
Matt and I found some great street food but as I was going to pay for a milkshake, I realised I had lost my other little purse. This time with no keys but 120 quetzales, about 20 dollars worth. I am really having bad
luck money wise. I was waiting for item no 3 to happen. We then saw the others back at the plaza. Rob was dead keen to go on the Ferris wheel as was I so we persuaded Charlotte and Matt to go up. What a view. It was fun although matt started to lean forward on the seat to scare me which it did, I am so glad he didn’t lean anymore forward as Rob later informed us that he saw people swinging the full way around as threw was no locks on the seat to prevent them from going upside down. Phew!!!!
Still we had a great day. We had to walk part of the way home, as there was a massive traffic jam of cars and buses trying to get into the festivities. We were in our bus for about 15/20 minutes but eth heat was awful and the locals rebelled and left. We found out it was a short walk so off we set. It was a lovely 20 minute or so walk. We were sad to be leaving because judging by the amount coming in to town, there was going to be one hell of a party. But there were no night buses home, so had to leave.
Over the last 3 weeks, Salsa is still progressing. Albeit very slowly. There are so many moves to learn. Matt and I get to partner each other most of the time, so at least we don’t have to struggle with Spanish and learning to dance. Now we just have to do it on a real dance floor…
e start of the parade. I then realised I had run out of battery and had forgotten to transfer the spare battery to my bag this morning. I was gutted. Luckily, I met Matt who was trying to do the same as I and he agreed to give me his photos. Still I would love to have had my own.Matt and I found some great street food but as I was going to pay for a milkshake, I realised I had lost my other little purse. This time with no keys but 120 quetzales, about 20 dollars worth. I am really having bad
luck money wise. I was waiting for item no 3 to happen. We then saw the others back at the plaza. Rob was dead keen to go on the Ferris wheel as was I so we persuaded Charlotte and Matt to go up. What a view. It was fun although matt started to lean forward on the seat to scare me which it did, I am so glad he didn’t lean anymore forward as Rob later informed us that he saw people swinging the full way around as threw was no locks on the seat to prevent them from going upside down. Phew!!!!Still we had a great day. We had to walk part of the way home, as there was a massive traffic jam of cars and buses trying to get into the festivities. We were in our bus for about 15/20 minutes but eth heat was awful and the locals rebelled and left. We found out it was a short walk so off we set. It was a lovely 20 minute or so walk. We were sad to be leaving because judging by the amount coming in to town, there was going to be one hell of a party. But there were no night buses home, so had to leave.
Over the last 3 weeks, Salsa is still progressing. Albeit very slowly. There are so many moves to learn. Matt and I get to partner each other most of the time, so at least we don’t have to struggle with Spanish and learning to dance. Now we just have to do it on a real dance floor…
1Dec
Gina and Chris came back for a while but have now left for the rest of their trip around Guatemala and Mexico. Angela a lovely Canadian, also left today. That is 4 gone that I have got to like a lot that have left in a few days. A shame. But the communal dinners have made a resurgence. They had stopped completely. They are in no way, as good as they used be, but it is nice to have people stay and chat over cooking and eating.
Gina and Chris came back for a while but have now left for the rest of their trip around Guatemala and Mexico. Angela a lovely Canadian, also left today. That is 4 gone that I have got to like a lot that have left in a few days. A shame. But the communal dinners have made a resurgence. They had stopped completely. They are in no way, as good as they used be, but it is nice to have people stay and chat over cooking and eating.
Lori seems to be fitting in better in her room as she has now met some other Guatemalans which are really nice. She has washed the walls etc. in her room with disinfectant and now has a better lock, after Matt fixed it for her and mended the shelves she bought. She mentioned that Matt looked so manly fixing the shelves and how it was nice to have a guy around to do guy things. Of course this is anathema to me, so I nearly barfed.
And the drunk has never knocked on her door. She was wondering if she should be offended by the rejection but we thought not ha ha.
And the drunk has never knocked on her door. She was wondering if she should be offended by the rejection but we thought not ha ha.
So my new name for Matt is Manly Matt. Back at the hostel, I told Ashley, she found it just as amusing as I did. She came up with the new phrase… Manly Matt in his girlie jacket. We laughed. I like her humour. Matt seems to be taking it quite well. bless him.
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