27th Jan. I got into Santa Marta airport and a little bus took me into the centre of town. I met this man called Alonso, He showed me to the tour agency where I was to buy the trip to go to the Ciudad Perdida (The lost city). This is one of the main reasons tourists come here. He then shows me to the hostel, I want. It is owned by a relative, so he knows it well. I get to my dorm. It is probably one of the worst dorms I have had ot be in. The shower is within the dorm but just a plastic curtain barely hanging on the rail, another curtain barely obscuring anyone using the toilet. I won’t be using these facilities. Thank god there are others more private ones outside. I end up chatting to this lovely German boy. He is debating whether he goes to Central America to do a project he is interested in but also is near his ex girlfriend whom he wants to get back with or go on travelling south. It is a big debate but If eel he will go to the ex girlfriend even though she is now with someone else. He wants to tell her he loves her and that he should have let her know. But I advise as best I can and mostly I just listen. Later a girl(Miriam) comes in and I find out hat she has just been dumped by her boyfriend. God what a dorm of broken hearts but we chat and befriend each other and I her give her advice too. God I feel like a right agony aunt but I do enjoy these chats. I go to get food with the German and some Colombians who have come here for holiday.Next day I talk to Miriam more and we hang out together. She is at a loss as to what to do so I say why not come to the lost city. It appeals to her and so we go and book. We bargain as hard as we can but it is still $125. Oh this is expensive. But it is something I have wanted to do all my trip. I have heard many great thigns about it.
Next morning, we arrive at the designated time. However we wait for ages. Alonso, comes by and chats to me. He is a real interesting chap. He shows tells me how he was an extra for 6 months in the movie “The Mission” with Robert Dinero. I have seen it but a long time ago it was huge in the 80s. He is very proud of this and shows me photographs of him and the cast and of course Dinero himself. Alonso says Deniro was lovely a real gentleman. Alonso played a missionary who is killed and had to do several takes at a time before the Directors approval. They spent 3 months in Santa Marta and another 3 months in Cartegena filming. The waterfall screen was apparently in Uruguay. IT is amazing here you are in this small town and you meet a person who has been in a Hollywood movie.
After 2 hours we finally find out that the truck had broken down. Hence the delay. Our truck is a cross between an old land rover and a bus. It has no glass. There are 13 of us. This causes some confusion as there is only supposed to be 12. They have forgotten me and lost my passport copy. 13 doesn’t bode well.
We bus along the highway for over an hour then we hit the entrance to the park where we
are met by some very juvenile military. We have to show them all our bags and the list of our names and our passport numbers. Then we start motoring the worse road I have ever been on in my life. I have no idea how the driver does this every day. Miriam is at the window, probably the worst place to sit, so sees the whole thing. Sees how close we are top the sheer drops, with inches to spare for the wheel on the road. I don’t feel scared. I am not close to the window. However, lots of oh gods emanate from Miriam. Deep ruts mark the road. Some about a foot deep. The truck leans left, then right into the ruts. Sometimes as it hits nearly a 45 degree angle, I fear it will overturn, it leans that much. I sat by the window for a while and I was ok but still, I held my breath when we go too close to the edge. It was hairy. Sometimes we have to get out as the road is too bad and we walk for a few minutes. At one point it was just the girls who were left in the truck We had to move from side to side to balance the truck as we moved painstakingly slowly up the path. At times the engine practically breathed fire as it skidded in the soft mud. We cold almost feel the breakpads burning and stunned they made it or indeed the engine. I should enquire the maker of the engine, because it certainly deserves an award.
And I thought my old jobs were stressful. This is coronary inducing. Hats off to the driver, a remarkable skilled man. Although I seriously doubt I will want to come down in this. An hour and a half later we are at the village, the start of the trek. We are fed a beautiful lunch and then we begin the 3 hour trek…UP.
Both Miriam and I were worried about our
fitness. We are not fit. We figure we will be last so have agreed to keep each other company at the back of the group. However, although, we are not going at a very fast pace, we make it to the front relatively quickly and lead the trek for most of the way until dark. This is when my night sight hampers me and then I am last. The views up are wonderful. And the guides lay on freshly cut oranges for us at different break points or fruit juice. Wow this is luxury trekking. Although at times there was a struggle with walking when it got too steep and muddy. Miriam and I find it easier to be in front of the others as we set our own pace. We are neither held back or hold anyone back which is nice. When we are behind someone a lotl slower, we loose momentum and the will to carry on sometimes.
About 6 or we finally get to our first accommodation. The porters have arrived. Some of the group wash in the river. I try to have a shower. Needless to say it is cold. Oh it hurts. But I am clean at least. Dinner is wonderful and we get biscuits at the end.
They give us hot mate de Coca which is tea made from just he fresh leaves of the coca plant. A gentleman arrives and offers to take us to a cocaine making factory. Hoever it is 30 pesos and so expensive so no one takes up the option. We find out that Hunter one of the group, fell and the only thing that saved him from a drop to the ground 20/30 feet or more below was that he had the wherewithal to grab a root that took his weight. He was so lucky.
Our sleeping accommodation is a hammock covered in mosquito net. But it is bed and I take to it gladly and sleep like a log.
The 2nd day of the trek we get up early. It is not as bad today more mixed ups and downs. Still the day is tough but we get to our destination after about 3 hours. Well Miriam and I do. Some of the others take quite a while longer. We get to swim in a river this time to cool down. As the sun is out, we sunbath on rocks on the rivers edge. It is delicious. WE have the place to ourselves for about 30 minutes. There is a very strong current in the river so we are warned where not to swim. But we get to jump off the rocks in to the cool water.
This time we get to sleep in beds. The porters again are preparing lunch and it again is delicions. Our group is a motley crew. WE have Emily, Carmen travelling together and who met Conrad a few stops ago all from London. Then Stephen from Chicago, whom the londoners met along the way too. They are a tight group of 4. Then there is the Swiss man and his Peruvian girlfriend. They are a lovely couple but I can’t remember their names. Then Ánne form Sweden. Camila from Bogotá originally but brought up mostly in Europe. First of all Amsterdam then London. She speaks fluent English and Dutch and god knows what else besides her native Spanish. She is an absolute doll. I gel with her instantly and we have a good laugh over the trek. Then there is the 3 Americans. Hunter is a hippy type but more in the vein of Jim Morrison. Then there is Frank and his friend. Both are more conservative but still ok. Although Frank and I get off on the wrong foot due to our very different attitudes to Cuba. He is of Cuban descent. We chat in different groups. Miriam who speaks very good Spanish chats with the Peruvian and Swiss. I chat more with Camila or the Londoners or sometimes Anne.
We meet other groups too that are doing the same trek as us.
The 3rd day again, we get up early, Breakfast includes eggs and hot chocolate and coffee. It is filling and good “marching food” as Conrad puts it. Miriam and I head off fairly quickly as we don’t want to be caught behind. We struggle at times as we are fighting a high altitude, our own tiredness and sometimes the steepness is vicious. Add to that, deep wet mud. It is not an easy trek. But we have sense of achievement at the end of it.
Today though, the guide John who lead us on the first day, again helps us today. He guides us to the crossings; we are to take across the river. He goes in Wellingtons and all and stands and holds each of us as we pass the rushing forceful flow of the river. He is not much taller or heavier than I, yet he is able to help us all. It is sometimes hard to keep ones balance and I nearly loose it at
one stage. Lucky I have put my camera and those of a few others into my watertight bag. We have 7 or 9 river crossings. We loose count, so we cant get to far ahead of the group. So we wait for them to catch up. The last leg is the worst. Approximately 1018 steps to the top to the actual city itself. Oh god it was tough. And it starts raining to make it all the worse. I got to the city first. Well the first main platform. I took photos of the others coming up. They came laden with their rucksacks, head down, spirit withering with the sheer struggle of the steepness and sheer amount of steps. But we feel invigorated when we get to the top. We are there. We have done the worst of it. Although I begin to wonder where the city is, I await enlightenment.
We get to our camp. There are a lot of soldiers around apparently to protect the tourists from terrorists. Some years ago FARC, kidnapped some tourists and kept them for a few months. It is raining hard. So we dont bother exploring. We just chill, nap, read, chat.
The 4th day, Walter our lead guide, takes us around the city. The city is just platforms. There are one or town houses but these are the Indigenous houses and are lived in. We see some plants etc and he tells us about various rock sculptures and a map created by the Tayronas in the 11th-14th centuries. Much of the city has been reclaimed by the jungle and there is lush vegetation all round. It is beautiful, although, I was expecting a bit more from this lost city. I guess I am
a bit disappointed. Still it has been an amazing trek and the group and guides have been fabulous.
We have a second night in the same accommodation.
Day 5, we are off early after breakfast. We have to do 4/5 hours down as we skip the 2nd accommodation. It is tough and muddy as it has rained quite a lot over the last few days. Well it is the rainy season. We are filthy at the end of it and have to wash off in the river. I don’t bother with the shower. Both are freezing so why not take the easy option.
Day 6. We think, as it is downhill, we will get it done in 2 hours. Ha the joke was on us. Due to the extreme muddiness it takes us a lot longer. A bit over 3 hours. WE at times nearly fall in the slippyness of the mud or sink into its mire. But eventually we get to the village. Where again they have prepared a lovely lunch, which we devour.
Then it is onto the truck. I really dont want tot get on. I know now what awaits. I get the chance when the truck stops to help another broken down vehickle, to walk for 30 minutes solo. Miriam walks with me but eventually gives up. I am by the window but this time I am not so calm. When the truck stopped, It gave some of its screws to another truck S far as I can see one of the wheels just has one nut holding it to the truck. This makes me nervous, as I sense the driver is too. I have confidence in him but no longer in our truck. Especially, when he sends the guide out every 20 minutes to check and tighten the screw on the wheel. But eventually we make it to the entrance intact, where the military await to check us again. It is a cursory check and we are off back to Santa Marta along a nice tarmaced road. Phew.
We day our goodbyes to all the others, as each is going to a separate place. Miriam and I go back to the shoddy dorm. We wash and go for food. Later we meet the Peruvian and Swiss and have a few juices etc with them in a nearby café .
Miriam and I are quite proud of ourselves. We thought we would be so unfit but we did well. It has been great for her confidence and mine too.
Next day we head to
04 Feb
We head to Bogota together Miriam and I. Then we part. She goes to her friends and I go to a hostel in the old quarter.
And I thought my old jobs were stressful. This is coronary inducing. Hats off to the driver, a remarkable skilled man. Although I seriously doubt I will want to come down in this. An hour and a half later we are at the village, the start of the trek. We are fed a beautiful lunch and then we begin the 3 hour trek…UP.
Both Miriam and I were worried about our
fitness. We are not fit. We figure we will be last so have agreed to keep each other company at the back of the group. However, although, we are not going at a very fast pace, we make it to the front relatively quickly and lead the trek for most of the way until dark. This is when my night sight hampers me and then I am last. The views up are wonderful. And the guides lay on freshly cut oranges for us at different break points or fruit juice. Wow this is luxury trekking. Although at times there was a struggle with walking when it got too steep and muddy. Miriam and I find it easier to be in front of the others as we set our own pace. We are neither held back or hold anyone back which is nice. When we are behind someone a lotl slower, we loose momentum and the will to carry on sometimes.About 6 or we finally get to our first accommodation. The porters have arrived. Some of the group wash in the river. I try to have a shower. Needless to say it is cold. Oh it hurts. But I am clean at least. Dinner is wonderful and we get biscuits at the end.
They give us hot mate de Coca which is tea made from just he fresh leaves of the coca plant. A gentleman arrives and offers to take us to a cocaine making factory. Hoever it is 30 pesos and so expensive so no one takes up the option. We find out that Hunter one of the group, fell and the only thing that saved him from a drop to the ground 20/30 feet or more below was that he had the wherewithal to grab a root that took his weight. He was so lucky.Our sleeping accommodation is a hammock covered in mosquito net. But it is bed and I take to it gladly and sleep like a log.
The 2nd day of the trek we get up early. It is not as bad today more mixed ups and downs. Still the day is tough but we get to our destination after about 3 hours. Well Miriam and I do. Some of the others take quite a while longer. We get to swim in a river this time to cool down. As the sun is out, we sunbath on rocks on the rivers edge. It is delicious. WE have the place to ourselves for about 30 minutes. There is a very strong current in the river so we are warned where not to swim. But we get to jump off the rocks in to the cool water.
This time we get to sleep in beds. The porters again are preparing lunch and it again is delicions. Our group is a motley crew. WE have Emily, Carmen travelling together and who met Conrad a few stops ago all from London. Then Stephen from Chicago, whom the londoners met along the way too. They are a tight group of 4. Then there is the Swiss man and his Peruvian girlfriend. They are a lovely couple but I can’t remember their names. Then Ánne form Sweden. Camila from Bogotá originally but brought up mostly in Europe. First of all Amsterdam then London. She speaks fluent English and Dutch and god knows what else besides her native Spanish. She is an absolute doll. I gel with her instantly and we have a good laugh over the trek. Then there is the 3 Americans. Hunter is a hippy type but more in the vein of Jim Morrison. Then there is Frank and his friend. Both are more conservative but still ok. Although Frank and I get off on the wrong foot due to our very different attitudes to Cuba. He is of Cuban descent. We chat in different groups. Miriam who speaks very good Spanish chats with the Peruvian and Swiss. I chat more with Camila or the Londoners or sometimes Anne.
We meet other groups too that are doing the same trek as us.
The 3rd day again, we get up early, Breakfast includes eggs and hot chocolate and coffee. It is filling and good “marching food” as Conrad puts it. Miriam and I head off fairly quickly as we don’t want to be caught behind. We struggle at times as we are fighting a high altitude, our own tiredness and sometimes the steepness is vicious. Add to that, deep wet mud. It is not an easy trek. But we have sense of achievement at the end of it.
Today though, the guide John who lead us on the first day, again helps us today. He guides us to the crossings; we are to take across the river. He goes in Wellingtons and all and stands and holds each of us as we pass the rushing forceful flow of the river. He is not much taller or heavier than I, yet he is able to help us all. It is sometimes hard to keep ones balance and I nearly loose it at
one stage. Lucky I have put my camera and those of a few others into my watertight bag. We have 7 or 9 river crossings. We loose count, so we cant get to far ahead of the group. So we wait for them to catch up. The last leg is the worst. Approximately 1018 steps to the top to the actual city itself. Oh god it was tough. And it starts raining to make it all the worse. I got to the city first. Well the first main platform. I took photos of the others coming up. They came laden with their rucksacks, head down, spirit withering with the sheer struggle of the steepness and sheer amount of steps. But we feel invigorated when we get to the top. We are there. We have done the worst of it. Although I begin to wonder where the city is, I await enlightenment.We get to our camp. There are a lot of soldiers around apparently to protect the tourists from terrorists. Some years ago FARC, kidnapped some tourists and kept them for a few months. It is raining hard. So we dont bother exploring. We just chill, nap, read, chat.
The 4th day, Walter our lead guide, takes us around the city. The city is just platforms. There are one or town houses but these are the Indigenous houses and are lived in. We see some plants etc and he tells us about various rock sculptures and a map created by the Tayronas in the 11th-14th centuries. Much of the city has been reclaimed by the jungle and there is lush vegetation all round. It is beautiful, although, I was expecting a bit more from this lost city. I guess I am
a bit disappointed. Still it has been an amazing trek and the group and guides have been fabulous.We have a second night in the same accommodation.
Day 5, we are off early after breakfast. We have to do 4/5 hours down as we skip the 2nd accommodation. It is tough and muddy as it has rained quite a lot over the last few days. Well it is the rainy season. We are filthy at the end of it and have to wash off in the river. I don’t bother with the shower. Both are freezing so why not take the easy option.
Day 6. We think, as it is downhill, we will get it done in 2 hours. Ha the joke was on us. Due to the extreme muddiness it takes us a lot longer. A bit over 3 hours. WE at times nearly fall in the slippyness of the mud or sink into its mire. But eventually we get to the village. Where again they have prepared a lovely lunch, which we devour.
Then it is onto the truck. I really dont want tot get on. I know now what awaits. I get the chance when the truck stops to help another broken down vehickle, to walk for 30 minutes solo. Miriam walks with me but eventually gives up. I am by the window but this time I am not so calm. When the truck stopped, It gave some of its screws to another truck S far as I can see one of the wheels just has one nut holding it to the truck. This makes me nervous, as I sense the driver is too. I have confidence in him but no longer in our truck. Especially, when he sends the guide out every 20 minutes to check and tighten the screw on the wheel. But eventually we make it to the entrance intact, where the military await to check us again. It is a cursory check and we are off back to Santa Marta along a nice tarmaced road. Phew.
We day our goodbyes to all the others, as each is going to a separate place. Miriam and I go back to the shoddy dorm. We wash and go for food. Later we meet the Peruvian and Swiss and have a few juices etc with them in a nearby café .
Miriam and I are quite proud of ourselves. We thought we would be so unfit but we did well. It has been great for her confidence and mine too.
Next day we head to
04 Feb
We head to Bogota together Miriam and I. Then we part. She goes to her friends and I go to a hostel in the old quarter.
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