23May
Early next morning, we got the bus back to David, then onto Changuinola to go to the islands of Bocos del Toro. We met this fab couple who were staying in Bocos del Toro who helped us tremendously. They advised going to Almiralty not Changuinola, as boats were every thirty minutes rather than every few hours. So we followed with them.
We got off the bus and in seconds our bags were taken by these young boys, by this time the couple had procured a taxi and our bags were deposited in this. Of course the boys wanted a tip, which we gave, even if we didn't request their help. They were there in the pouring rain and deserved it. Of course we had a repeat of this, at the dock. The boat waited for us and off we sped to Bocos del Toro, the capital of the islands of the same name. The view from the boat was superb, though limited as we had to peer out of the plastic covering protecting us from the heavy downpour. It was phenomenal though, with the couples help, we were off the bus and on Bocos del toro, all in about 40 minutes, with about 3 minute gaps between all the different transports. Result!!!
We had taken the precaution of pre-booking, the hospedaje; Casa Veranda, a 10 min walk from the dock. I was curious about the owner as she sounded drunk on the phone. However, it turns out she had had a stroke as I found out later.
Our room was the best in the house. It was a bright room with light blue painted wooden walls. Lots of windows and oh so clean. The ensuite was clean, spacious and with hot water. Bliss! The hospedaje was a very nicely maintained colonial gem a short distance from most things. at a rate of $34, it was the most expensive place but, we deserved it for Robert's last few days and to make up for Casa Grande and to a lesser extent Casa Viejo.
We found a lovely restaurant called Lemongrass which served Asian fusion food. Oh to have spiced food again. Yummmmmmy. We ended up eating there quite a few times including our last day. We spent the first day around the town and walked to the nearest beach. We realised why no one was there and used the boats etc. to go elsewhere. Bocos is little town, the main street has many backpacker restaurants, hostels etc. The area along the waterfront is covered in
restaurants and cafes, mostly geared at the tourist or expat. Again there are lots of Americans here and again they are buying lots of property and developing it into gated developments, exclusive resorts, private homes etc...
It is a pretty place tho and very laid back. Although the daily rainy season downpours around 3-4ish, limit the time we can explore. I could stay for a while here and thought about coming back when Robert left but decided I am revisiting too many places so didn't return.
The waterfront restaurants are on stilts, with the road facing section covered and then a deck over the water. The Caribbean meets New Orleans. This decking, of course extends the amount of space available for lounging and tables.
One hotel had a lovely separate gazebo over the water, a little 2 tabled affair, extended via a little bridge from the deck/restaurant. Most afternoons, we took advantage of the shelter offered there, from the heavy downpours, to read our books/partake of a few beverages/snacks.
The view was always interesting. the neighbouring establishments, the other islands, the boats picking up or delivering people or goods and of course the facinating rain. After outstaying our welcome, we usually moved to another waterfront restaurant, not too far away, so we didn't get too wet.
To get to our hotel, we have to pass Mondo Taitu, this is the main backpacker hostel in town, although there are a few others, including its sister, that give it a run for its money. However, this wins due to the presence of a packed bar each evening with patrons, attracted by cheap drinks, theme nights and the knowledge that most of the young twenty something's are going to be there. We felt too old to go in, even though we were tempted, as most other places in town died after 9pm. Bocos has many older people but none seem to be backpackers just residents or tourists. I feel my age difference here more than most places.
Early next morning, we got the bus back to David, then onto Changuinola to go to the islands of Bocos del Toro. We met this fab couple who were staying in Bocos del Toro who helped us tremendously. They advised going to Almiralty not Changuinola, as boats were every thirty minutes rather than every few hours. So we followed with them.
We got off the bus and in seconds our bags were taken by these young boys, by this time the couple had procured a taxi and our bags were deposited in this. Of course the boys wanted a tip, which we gave, even if we didn't request their help. They were there in the pouring rain and deserved it. Of course we had a repeat of this, at the dock. The boat waited for us and off we sped to Bocos del Toro, the capital of the islands of the same name. The view from the boat was superb, though limited as we had to peer out of the plastic covering protecting us from the heavy downpour. It was phenomenal though, with the couples help, we were off the bus and on Bocos del toro, all in about 40 minutes, with about 3 minute gaps between all the different transports. Result!!!
We had taken the precaution of pre-booking, the hospedaje; Casa Veranda, a 10 min walk from the dock. I was curious about the owner as she sounded drunk on the phone. However, it turns out she had had a stroke as I found out later.
Our room was the best in the house. It was a bright room with light blue painted wooden walls. Lots of windows and oh so clean. The ensuite was clean, spacious and with hot water. Bliss! The hospedaje was a very nicely maintained colonial gem a short distance from most things. at a rate of $34, it was the most expensive place but, we deserved it for Robert's last few days and to make up for Casa Grande and to a lesser extent Casa Viejo.
We found a lovely restaurant called Lemongrass which served Asian fusion food. Oh to have spiced food again. Yummmmmmy. We ended up eating there quite a few times including our last day. We spent the first day around the town and walked to the nearest beach. We realised why no one was there and used the boats etc. to go elsewhere. Bocos is little town, the main street has many backpacker restaurants, hostels etc. The area along the waterfront is covered in
restaurants and cafes, mostly geared at the tourist or expat. Again there are lots of Americans here and again they are buying lots of property and developing it into gated developments, exclusive resorts, private homes etc...It is a pretty place tho and very laid back. Although the daily rainy season downpours around 3-4ish, limit the time we can explore. I could stay for a while here and thought about coming back when Robert left but decided I am revisiting too many places so didn't return.
The waterfront restaurants are on stilts, with the road facing section covered and then a deck over the water. The Caribbean meets New Orleans. This decking, of course extends the amount of space available for lounging and tables.One hotel had a lovely separate gazebo over the water, a little 2 tabled affair, extended via a little bridge from the deck/restaurant. Most afternoons, we took advantage of the shelter offered there, from the heavy downpours, to read our books/partake of a few beverages/snacks.
The view was always interesting. the neighbouring establishments, the other islands, the boats picking up or delivering people or goods and of course the facinating rain. After outstaying our welcome, we usually moved to another waterfront restaurant, not too far away, so we didn't get too wet.To get to our hotel, we have to pass Mondo Taitu, this is the main backpacker hostel in town, although there are a few others, including its sister, that give it a run for its money. However, this wins due to the presence of a packed bar each evening with patrons, attracted by cheap drinks, theme nights and the knowledge that most of the young twenty something's are going to be there. We felt too old to go in, even though we were tempted, as most other places in town died after 9pm. Bocos has many older people but none seem to be backpackers just residents or tourists. I feel my age difference here more than most places.
Next day we got a boat from Bocos to Red Frog Beach, which apparently is going to be Dead Frog Beach, as a new resort has started to build and the poisonous, Red Dart Frogs, which gave the beach its name, are in danger of disappearing. A Pity as it is lovely. It was great zipping across the water, in this high powered wooden passenger boat for 10 min. We then had to walk a little path through the forest, to the uncrowded beach (maybe 15 people). It was lovely and we stayed for a few hours. as the rains start about 4, we ended up in our favourite cafe, drinking juices/cocktails and reading, until dark, then we dined until the rain stopped. Very laid back and chilled.
Next day we zipped along again to another beach. This time we were dropped off at Old bank, the capital of Isla Bastimentos and told to follow the path. At times we were dubious we were on the right path. The 15 min hike was a bit rough, as much of the ground was muddy, slippery and downhill. Our reward was Wizard beach, a lovely secluded place with maybe 10 people. At about 2.30 we left, as we know the rain usually starts about 4 and the hike back would take hours, if we got caught in the torrential rain.
However, we were lucky, as the rain just started early, as we got to the dock. There was no boat, so we went to the Red Rooster restaurant next to the dock on the water front. This waterfront restaurant was like all the others, i.e. on stilts etc. However, this was constructed in unpainted wood. The furniture was as rustic and basic, as the construction. Thre were various roosters here and there. The owners were an American and his wife to be, a local. They were really nice and chatty. While we snacked and drank, a man from the infamous local band "The Castaways", formerly known as the "beach Boys", took out his guitar and entertained us with slightly bawdy local reggae songs such as "if your mother and wife were drowning, who would you save?". He then played and sung Bob Marley and Bob Dylan. It was really lovely there and I had wished we had more time and could have stayed a few days here. 
Bastimentos is very poor, much poorer than Bocos, with a more authentic Caribbean, untouched vibe. You can see a little of the differences between the fotos from the Red Rooster of Old bank and the fotos above of Bocas.
On the way back I got to chat to this chap who is a professional surfer from Bocas and represents Panama.His nickname is filipone or something like that. I tried searching for it so maybe he made it up but he was a really interesting chap, had a tiny surfboard and knew about Caitlin, the owner of our hospedaje and told me that she had a stroke and that also she liked the old bottle a bit too much.
That evening we decided we had to go to a bar. We ended up in, what is locally known, as the wreck deck. The bar/club has the earthbound road section and its decking on stilts. There are decking sections, interlinked by little bridges. The decking and tables etc. surround sections of exposed water, where you can view the sunken, rusty banana boat, in it's watery grave, highlighted by strategically placed lamps. You also get to watch the little fish swimming around the wreck, whilst sipping your Cuba Libre. It provides probably the most unusual /individual decorative accessory, I have seen in any bar.
That evening we decided we had to go to a bar. We ended up in, what is locally known, as the wreck deck. The bar/club has the earthbound road section and its decking on stilts. There are decking sections, interlinked by little bridges. The decking and tables etc. surround sections of exposed water, where you can view the sunken, rusty banana boat, in it's watery grave, highlighted by strategically placed lamps. You also get to watch the little fish swimming around the wreck, whilst sipping your Cuba Libre. It provides probably the most unusual /individual decorative accessory, I have seen in any bar.
26thMay
t was time to leave Bocas. We wandered around time and saw some of what we had missed or forgotten from our first forays and it would have been so nice to have had more time. We even found the Starfish Cafe, which was a cool cafe with lovely nibbles and a nice deck, where we read for a while.
It is a pity we had gone to El Valle as I think more time here would have been better spent. But such is life. At 5pm after 30 min delay, we got on the Panama Airlines 20 seater little plane, that was to return us to Panama City. Again, we struggled to get a taxi for even a fair price, but we were their hostages and it was again pouring from he heavens. We got to our pre-booked hotel with the rather over glamorously named Hotel Acapulco, Calle 30, in the business district. That evening we got a taxi to Calle Uruguay. The hot street for bars and restaurant. We had a delightful upmarket meal of Falafel, hummus, and kebabs. Robert had never tried a hookah pipe, so we ordered one with mixed fruit tobacco. It was quite nice but after 20 min or so we got bored of it. We waked around a bit to investigate somewhere for tomorrow night and got a taxi home for of course more than the official price. It was a really nice evening.
Next day we explored the Allbrook shopping mall againand just had to get a foto of these great local buses...The art on some are just incredible.
28May
We breakfasted, interneted, then it was time for Robert to fly home. It was quite weird to be alone again after being with someone 24/7.
28May
We breakfasted, interneted, then it was time for Robert to fly home. It was quite weird to be alone again after being with someone 24/7.
It was really lovely to have someone to have proper conversations with, rather than "the what is your name and where do you come" from set. Not that I mind those but I really need less superficial conversations too. We had some really good ones and share a lot of common ground. We spoke about the book he bought me for my birthday: The Tipping point among others and he filled me in on what is happening in the western worked during my absence. I have missed a lot. We debated and chatted a lot. It was just really good.
28May
Alone again Naturally... I set off to Luna's Castle. I figured I would book into the dorm in Luna's, as it was familiar and busy, which of course it was. It was like going back to a friend, rather than a gloomy empty hotel room. I quickly settled in to having my pancakes each morning and sorting my mail etc. out. Although there was still a big gap which is taking a while to fill. It is nice and I need a bit of solitary time to think and plan. I haven't really had a lot since I started in Jan.
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