After Robert left, I stayed in Luna’s Castle for another few days resting, reading, sorting laundry, books etc out. I felt a bit alien in Luna’s, as this time I didn’t know anyone and everyone seemed to know someone. Although a few staff recognized me and chatted a little.
One morning I sat next to this young newly qualified doctor, from Canada. He was a well traveled, intelligent chap and the strange thing is once one person talks to you then it opens the way for those around you to join in. So had a great chat him and some Americans.
On the evening I was buying my ticket to Nicaragua, I overheard some people discussing going to a movie in Allbrook. So I joined them, after I bought my ticket. They were nice people and “Prince Caspian” was lovely. We all came out pleasantly surprised that it was good. It has been so long since I have been to a film.
Next Morning, at Allbrook, I got the 11am bus out of Panama. At about 2am. I was deposited in the town before the border and stuck there for 5 hours. This El Salvadorian lady decided she was bored so chatted to me about the Bette Midler movie and then some soap that was being shown on the TV in the waiting room. I filled her in when she missed bits in pidgin Spanish and sign language. I think she was bored and liked to talk. I end up with so many random conversations in some unusual circumstances. It is bizarre but I like it.
Got to Panama/Costa Rica border 7am. It was a bit confusing as I had no clue what was going. However, with a little sign language and guidance from the conductor/ driver, I ended up in this room. Our luggage was lined up on the floor. Why, became clear later. A lovely cocker spaniel, I had been admiring, was lead in and sniffed all our bags. Even though I’m sure I have nothing, there is the fear that the dog will smell something. Of course it would be so easy in the dorms of the hostel to put something in my bag. As these thoughts were going through my head, the dog finished his duties without finding his quarry. We walked to the Costa Rican side and went through the process again.
We were picked up by our patient driver and for the next few hours I sat next to Rutgar, from Amsterdam. I thought he was English due to his accent but that was due to his living in England for 6 years. We spoke our search for non conventional work, books, politics and travelling or course. He was going back to this place in Nicaragua where he had met this chap (Edward, I think) through a hostel. Edward owned this mini park of primary forest. However, he had created and maintained trails and was trying to build some eco friendly cabanas. At present, he was staying in this little shack. Rutgar ended up there with Milly, this young Indian/English lady he has met on and off over the last 5 years whilst she has been traveling. They were both so enamored with Edward. they each gave him $2000 to build cabanas. This will cut their trip short but the guy had nothing, they got a lifetime invite there and it was their first project together. Rutgar is cutting his trip short by a few months, so he can go live in London with Milly to give their relationship a chance. It will be a test as they have always met while traveling. A pretty cool story. I wished him the best of luck.
At the Costa Rican/Nicaraguan border, we disembarked with all our luggage and had to go through baggage checks. In the queues, Costa Rican money changers offered us 18.2/18.50 Cordobas for a dollar but the locals, told me wait until the Nicaraguan side, for 19 Cordobas. At the Nicaraguan side, when it came to going into the room for our baggage check, there was a man at the entrance. Beside him was a traffic light just red and green. He examined our papers. Monica, an Austria who had been helping us, she wsa before me and was told to press the green button, I was next. Both of us assumed that meant we could go to have our bags checked. However this actually meant we were free to go back to our bus. What a system. We were in Nicaragua.
About 1.5 hrs later, we were in Rivas. I was not expecting to get there so fast so was not prepared. I was out in the street before I knew it being hassled by kids trying to sell me hammocks and a taxi driver who wanted t$20 dollars to take me to San Juan del Sur. I declined and thought, was I nuts to decline. I was in a one street town and had no idea where the bus station etc. was with a huge rucksack in the heat. Hmmm I just walked to the right, as I saw the Tica bus agency and thought I can at least ask them where the station is. Some kindly locals pointed down the street, I had no clue what they were saying but I walked. I then asked this girl waiting for a bus, where the station for San Juan was. The girl said here.
Taxis came every few minutes but no bus. However, one taxi came and the girl got in after asking him about San Juan. I figured I might as well do the same, so asked him the price. In a quiet voice he told me $3. Which I am sure was more than the local paid but at least it wasn’t $20. 2 more chaps got into the back along the route. The road was a mass of potholes and trenches but was being repaired. I think this was after the big storm from the hurricane that was here a few weeks ago and caused major landslides which prevented buses coming into Costa Rica from the south side of Panama. I delivered at my chosen hostel (Hospadaje Elizabeth). I booked in.
It is weird but since Panama, I am feeling more alienated from the gringo set. I have not met many other travellers that come close to my age. Most are about half. There are many times I feel so old. It may have even got worse since my birthday. Can it make that much of a difference? Who knows!!
A lot of tourists here are also only here for a few weeks. So I didn’t really feel like mixing with them.I was going to choose another place. However, when I went to look the next day, I didn’t bother moving. One choice was the main hostel (Casa Oro) which is full of 20somethings all way too bubbly and some of the conversations seemed so inane, I just couldn’t face it. OR various hostels again with much the same clientele. Or maybe it is just me. So I gave up for another day.
I am enjoying the quiet time and I want to do some Spanish lessons. I wandered around and checked San Juan out. It has a magnificent horseshoe shaped bay, where waves just roll in a horseshoe shape up to the shore. There are a few restaurants lined along the shore many with thatched roofs but it is relatively low key. However, the amount of expats that are/have moved in is phenomenal. I checked the realty agencies. Some developments offer 200 homes and 320 condos. That is just one and there are several of these. Many gated. To be fair it is not obvious walking around the centre of town. Except of course the variety of westernish, up market restaurants that charge closer to US prices than Nicaraguan.Last night coming back to the room was depressing. Though, clean, the rooms etc, have bare unpainted floorboards, the walls need a good paint job. The shower is literally a pipe coming from the wall, with no shower head. The water, whilst not having the greatest volume, also tends to stop after 5 minutes, necessitating turning on/ off the shower, before continuing. AND the water is COLD, not tepid, COLD. I am so not a cold shower person. I thought I must leave.
This morning when the owner heard I was Irish, I was carted off to the freezer to be shown a large can of Guinness that one of the guests left as a present. He was so sweet. It thought oh bugger, I can’t leave now.
I was looking for Spanish schools and this lady in one motioned me to come over. There was just something about the school and the price was right, I signed up for a few days. I was introduced to Lorgia Castello, a lovely 29 year old mother of 2. She talks really clearly and slowly and I can actually have a conversation in Spanish. Very Basic yes but at least I can converse. It felt nice. We got straight into it and I learned the present tense. Three hours later I was still ok.
As part of the learning experience we have conversations in between teaching. I am learning a lot about Nicaragua. She told me, her son was 9, her daughter nearly 4. I expressed surprise, she told me, she was old compared to a lot of girls, getting pregnant at the moment. This is not just due to experimentation and ignorance but also due to abuse inside and out side the home and is very sad… The law does not protect these young girls or indeed women from domestic violence, even if the laws do, they are not upheld. A
fter class, when I returned to the hospedaje, the owner dragged me back out to the porch to meet an “amigo”. He was Irish. Ha ha. I thought it was just the Guinness can but this Dubliner, who’s Spanish was better than mine, told me the owner has relatives in Galway and had been there a few months ago and fell in love with Ireland. What can I say? As I am a sucker for that stuff, I stayed. But I think I am not the only one suckered in, there are now 2 Irish guys here.
Later I went into a bar/restaurant that served Mexican food. The food was not so good but I got chatting to Jeff, from the US, now living in Mexico. He had married an English girl and lived in London for years but when that failed he moved ot Mexico as he was fed up with the US. He was now motor biking home after biking from Mexico through Central America and South America for 7 months. He was trying to avoid Honduras where he knew, at one particular road, the local police were going to stop him to extort money illegally. He had heard about it on a bike website, but on his way down he still got done for $60.
Sometimes the water supply just stops. I had flushed but there was not enough water to push things through, as they say. Oh god the embarrassment. I kept trying to flush the toilet but only a dribble of water came each time. I was sweating with embarrassment, I was dreading leaving, as I would have to explain to the persons whose footsteps I could hear. It thought about what to do and decided on getting a bucket and water and pouring it down. I came out of the toilet. Phew! No one was waiting. I went in search of a bucket. Luckily, I found one. That meant at least I didn’t have to empty the bin, with all the toilet paper. Alas, I tried the water. Oh the horror of it. No water came. Not a drop. My heart sank.
After about 10 minutes the water returned, I threw a bucket of water down the toilet and all was well. Phew... The sheer relief.
While I was washing my teeth I got distracted by this spider and ant. The spider was the same length as the ant but 2-3 times the width. The ant was trying to run away but the spider ran around the ant at such a fast pace, the ant could not escape or sting. Within a few minutes, the spider succeeded in making the ant so dizzy, it could carry it off to its web. I didn’t realize spiders did that.
After 3 days of 3hr lessons, I booked up for the 5 days program. 4 hrs/day. I then went to Playa Madera. Casa Oro runs a shuttle there and back each day. The road is ROUGH!! It is a nice beach where the waves pound the beach and the surfing is pretty damn good. I have to rent a board but not until the Spanish lessons are finished. I am too knackered.
I went to a beachside restaurant for lunch. There was only one other, an elderly man, about 80, sat in the open area, eating. He beckoned me to come over and asked my name and my country. It was evident that he had had a few beers, and was still finishing one. I went back to my table and started to read. I was beckoned over again and he told me I was beautiful and then he told me he wanted me. Great! And all I wanted was a quiet lunch. Thank god he left early.
The day after, I was walking down the street, when this 60s+ gent tells me he loves me and wanted to give me a flower. I smiled said the flower was lovely and carried on.
Over the last few days, I have spent my time at Spanish class, eating, writing up my notes etc. electronically and wandering around a little of San Juan. At the moment, there is only one other student. Sarah, a high school student from Montana USA. She is the sweetest girl. She has done a fair bit of travelling even though she is only 17. This year she is here in Nicaragua for 1 month to study Spanish, learn to surf and volunteer. She is staying at a home stay with a local family. I was offered that but I could t bare not having control over what I eat or when I eat. So declined.
We had a chat about her homestay. There is a girl there that has been taken in as her mother cannot support her. She is 10. Sarah is helping her with her homework as no one else does and the girl has fallen behind as her schooling was limited before she came to live at the homestay. They have provided the girl with a lot but they make her work like a servant and the poor thing doesn’t get time to play. So Sarah takes her for ice-cream and a play in the park when the mother of the house is at church. At least the child will have some fun while Sarah is around. Sarah also told me about these 2 strange ladies one with a chimpanzee. I have yet to see them.
During one of our conversations, Lorgia told me about her husbands, sisters 6 kids. The sister lives in Costa Rica, but drinks a lot and goes with me. She has basically abandoned her 6 kids. I am not sure what happened the 2 girls but the 4 boys were taken in by Lorgia,s husband’s brother. Now this brother, his wife, and their own 2 kids and the other 4 kids, all share one room. I think there are many families like this.
To give you a further idea of things here. Lorgia workers for this Spanish language school. Today they asked her to become a member of their cooperative. This is a great opportunity for her. All she has to do is contribute $270. Not much you would think that should be easy. Well no it is not. Her dad earns money from renting some of his house to phone call centre. But claims to have no money. I thought that was so selfish. He gave her brother money without even questioning.
So this means she needs a loan. Except the bank requires so much proof etc of earnings and paperwork. Lorgia went to her room and cried. Her mom then suggested that she try and get the loan. They tried but the bank has to come see their house to see if they have enough to cover the loan should they not pay back… It will cost $33 each month for a year to pay back this $270. That makes it about a 50% interest rate. How can anyone try to set up a business or buy or build anything. Everything is stacked against them. I saw the same thing in Panama. The last I heard was the bank manger didn’t bother turning up on Friday, as planned. Lorgia only has until Monday to get the money. I tried looking for her today but couldn’t get hold of her. So I don’t know what happened.
One afternoon, Carmine, the lovely lady who had beckoned me into the school, and Lorgia organized salsa and meringue lessons for Sarah and I at the school all for $6 each. It is there way of making a bit of extra cash and I don’t resent it. Oh we had a laugh. They are such lovely people. 3 little girls joined us too. Not sure I learned much steps but we had fun.
The heat here in the afternoons is deadly. We have not had much rain. When it does rain it can be torrential but it is nice to have the cloud. I tend to go to internet cafes, usually the same one. I often see the owner, an honest chap, give lessons in computers to the locals. One evening, a girl on his staff was writing a letter for this older man, looked about 90 bless. Anyway he says something to me but I had no idea so just smiled. God knows what I smiled at.
Next evening he comes over and says hi again then shows me his gold chain with the face of christ hanging off it. This was no medal, but a blooming great hunk of gold. It must have been 22, carat as it was quiet yellow. He was very proud of it, and kept touching my arm to tell me. Although quite sweet about it. I said it was beautiful. I have very limited vocabulary... The next evening he was there again. He may have told me I was lovely but I'm not sure. But the sweet little man seems to like me anyway.
Later, the old lady with the chimpanzee came in. Yes a chimpanzee. She carries it around in her arms. It is as big as a 6 month old baby. AND she puts a nappy on it. I swear it is like a child. The lady is about 70 if she is a day and from the US. Sarah had told me about her. There is another one too and they hang out together and dress similarly. I have found sometimes that places like this attracts strange people that sometimes don’t fit into normal society but in a strange way fit in, in places like this. Hmm probably why I like it here...
Yesterday, Carmine and David, another teacher brought Sarah and I up to the highest point in town overlooking the harbour/beach. To get to the vista, we had to cross the San Juan river. There was a rope about 3 feet above the river going from the bank we were on to the other side. This 10 year old, pulled himself and the boat he was in, over to us, using the rope. We loaded onto the boat and our little ferryman ferried us across. Of course we didn’t pay him til we got to the other side… There, an older gentleman took the money and pocketed it. I hope the child saw some of it but I doubt it.
The vista was stunning. We also saw the other side of town in more ways than one. This is where many villas have been built, including swimming pools etc. Apparently there are many Canadians here and Germans, as well as Americans. NICE HOUSESAs Carmine was a cousin of one of the cleaners, we got to look into one of the houses. It was tastefully decorated with lovely features. The front wall was a wooden door that surrounded the whole front of the house with portholes in the door sections. The doors could be folded back to completely expose the living room to the vista below and their swimming pool. Nice if you can have it.
As we were climbing the hills and more so when we were descending, we saw hundreds of these orange/red and purple crabs. I had always thought crabs live on the beach but no. Some live here up in the hills. They can climb walls and trees. Each evening towards sunset they line the paved road up to the view point. You can hear their claws on the tarmac. Like nails on a blackboard. Give me an idea for a new horror movie, “Revenge of Killer Crabs”… It was a bit creepy. Glad I was not there in the dark. On seeing them, Sarah said it gave her a whole new idea if road kill.
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