Saturday 14 JuneIt is the festival of San Juan, the patron saint in this town. There are mini fiestas, each weekend. For the whole month of june, San Juan will host a rodeo. The rodeo, is where a person, usually a male, tries to ride a rather irate bull for, as long as they can. There is some rope tied around the lower stomach area to cause discomfort to the bull, so it bucks when it is released from the pen, with the rider on top. Well that is how it appeared to me.
The Rodeo ring was 15 min out side of town, so I walked. Inside this open field was a large ring, surrounded by10 foot wooden fences topped by mesh. Two sections had seats. To one side, was some other areas, fenced off. This was where the bulls were kept and where the rider mounted the bull. The crowd awaited anxiously for the first bull. It didn’t disappoint. But it did throw its rider off within a few seconds of release from the pen.
However, then the fun begins. Young lads in their teens, early 20s and the odd older person sit inside the bull ring and display their er em testosterone… by taunting the bull. The fences allow the young lads to escape the horns of the bull, if it heads in their direction, a little too vigorously. About 30 boys, are all trussed up in their cool gear showing, displaying their "manliness"... Some of the bulls that came out actually laid or knelt downwhen they had thrown their rider. I felt sorry for the bulls. They appeared to be in pain, terrified or exhausted and preferred to get the hell out of the ring, back to the corral with the other bulls as quickly as possible...
Some bulls had more stamina and ran around the ring. This was the exciting part as the boys would make a mad dash and there was a massive scramble up the fences to escape a nip of the horns. At one stage, this 40something chap, totally drunk was getting a little too daring.
There is always one…
Ah yes the false confidence of alcohol. I saw that some of the boys were trying to keep him away from harm but he wasn’t having any of it. You could just see it was an accident waiting to happen. Later, there he was in front of this bull getting ready to charge. Of course he wasn’t quick enough to avoid it and ended up under the bulls legs. He was on the ground for about 30 seconds and it was difficult to see if he had been hurt. However, he got up and didn't appeared to have suffered enough, as he was back making an idiot of himself 10 minutes later. It wasn’t quite the rodeo you see in the movies. The quality of the bulls alone didn’t allow that, let alone the riders. But it was more simple and the better for it. And there wasn’t a cowboy hat in sight, Well except one. Dallas it wasn’t. Although the guys herding the bulls back into the pen showed some skill in lassoing the bulls.
A few gringos then added to the numbers. Joined by a few more when they saw some others there. They had this young little bull, and a 12 year old came out riding it. Then an older woman took her chances on one of the young smaller bulls too. Fair dues…
Sunday 15thJun
I met Aidan (Mr. Donegal), who now resides in the room next door to me. The other Irish chap is Thomas from Dublin. In the Mercado we ran into an Irish girl, Aoiffe from Co. Clare. There seems to be quite a few Irish here. I am surprised. Aidan has a huge bandage on his forehead, as he split it open diving into the swimming pool. We have a chat now and then and today met in the Mercado (market) at breakfast and spent about 3 hours chatting.
Aidan, told me about a local girl that had been murdered at noon in her boutique Nov 2006. She had been going out with this American chap called Eric Volz, living in San Juan. He got charged with her murder because a local that had been acting suspiciously around the boutique said he saw him. However, apparently 10 people saw him in a meeting in Managua, 2 hours drive away, at the time of the murder. He was nearly lynched by the locals and had to break his way out of this house he had locked himself into. He was convicted even though there was no real evidence allegedly. It created a bit of a nasty sentiment here in San Juan against gringos (foreigners). He feels that he was convicted due to an anti US feeling. The trial seemed to be set against him and only 3 of the 10 witnesses were presented in court. On appeal, he was released and now in hiding in the US. Another retrial is imminent. So the story is still not over. I read about on the internet. It is a sad case, as there is still someone out there who should be convicted, if this guy didnt do it.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Volz
That afternoon, I was on the beach, and this young chap came up, he appeared to be rather tipsy. He is studying at the local university. Told me I had beautiful eyes and was like a mermaid. And wanted to go for walk on the street with me. I told him I was old enough to be his mother, but the message wasn’t getting through. What can I say. I still got it, what I have, has yet to be decided though.
Later this Canadian joined us and then got distracted by this child trying to play a game. The Canadian (Rob) asked me to help teach hopscotch, so thought that was a good escape option. So I spent an hour playing hopscotch on the beach with a 10 year old and a tipsy 35 year old. What can I say.
The boy had trousers on that were a mans, but had been cut and tied with some string so they stayed up. His t-shirt was dirty with a few holes in it. He was vague as to where he was living but turns out he was here from a nearby village and staying in San Juan for the weekend with his brother and was probably sleeping on the beach. We took him for something to eat. But when we brought him for pizza to a gringo restaurant, he seemed quite intimidated. He barely ate the pizza but we got it put in a bag and he took it away with him. We chatted to this Nicaraguan, called Hermann, who when he heard I was Irish told me to go to Nica Geeks to meet Edward an Irish chap that was very nice.
I went to this bar with Rob for a few drinks and met some of the local expat crowd. Many were Canadians too. It was a nice evening and the people were friendly. I still haven’t done any surfing. The waves were to be 12 feet tomorrow, so I was advised not to go out.
I was in my usual seat at the Mercado, when Aidan and Thomas came in and sat beside me. They told me they were heading off to Maderas and had a lift organized and did I want to. There were the 3 of us, 2 Belgians and 2 French (Vanessa and Antoine). Orlando the owner of Hospadaje Elizabeth was driving. Well we sped to the beach, I was in the back with the French. It was bumpy ride and I was glad that my rear end is so padded... For a man that has only one arm, he drives well but like a maniac. We still don’t know how he lost it but don’t want to ask.
I rented a surfboard but didn’t manage to get up on it as the waves were pretty ferocious and I kept getting cramps. At lunch time, Vanessa & I went over to join the boys on Majagual beach. It was this magnificent empty beach with just a few local low key properties backing on to it. Apparent the owner has been offered 2 million to sell but won’t.
While walking along the beach to lunch with the boys, I met Esther. I had met her earlier in Café Negro (one of the best bookshops I have ever seen, especially travelling) and she had recommended a book on Nicaragua. She chatted about her work with Doctors Without borders and about her work last year in the mountains 2 hours from Cartagena, in Colombia. I said I had not been aware it was so bad to warrant they being there. She corrected my education. Apparently as it is near the coast there is a lot of drug running, so FARC, the military etc. are battling it out for territory. This means of course the locals are getting caught in the crossfire. It is pretty bad. She figured that even many Colombians don’t know or want to know as they are fed up with it. She was really lovely girl and I would liked to have had more time with her.
A
fter lunch with the boys, I went back to surfing, succeeding in redeeming myself and catching a few waves. However, I didn’t get to stand. The cramps restarted. I think I didn’t drink enough liquid and I didn’t stretch. Bummer.Orlando collected us. He seemed to be dead chuffed to have so many Irish. Aidan was organizing a fishing trip for the next day and we all agreed to go. The electricity was still off and then we realized we had no water for showers either. I was able to wash my hair in the sink though. Nicaragua has a lot of problem with electricity cuts. A oil is used to provide electricity, the costs have escalated recently and power supply is erratic.
18Jun
We´re going fishing. We got into this plastic boat that could seat about 10 and spent the next 3 hours motoring around the coast, fishing rods out. I didn’t even get a nibble but Thomas nearly caught a beauty. However, Aidan and Antoine were the only ones to get something and keep it. Aidan caught this long fish like a sword fish with amazingly sharp teeth. Antoine caught this lovely yellow fish all in the last 30 minutes. We got dropped off in Majagual beach. It was glorious, but hot so didn’t venture out to much from the shade of the little thatched, wooden restaurant. 
There was a lot of banter between us 4 Irish. Really fun bunch of lads. It has been a long time since I have had that. It was like being with the gang form uni at home, as there was a lot of rib taking and slagging off about jackeens, culchies, county rivalry etc.When Orlando came to pick us up, he had the Irish flag on the front of the 4WD and had on his Guinness hat. Hilarious! Aoiffe ended up waving the flag all the way home, as it fell off and Orland had to rescue it. He was so chuffed. I just wish my Spanish was better so I could communicate better with him.
Still no showers upstairs and but enough has come back to flush the toilets, which were beginning to smell. Thomas allowed me to use his shower downstairs, which was mighty nice of him.
That evening we all went to the Pelican, a 5 star hotel. They have happy hour from 5-8 Wed and Fri. with 2 for the price of 1 cocktails. Really cool bar and most of the gringo set, be they backpackers, tourists or residents head there. We then sauntered to the Iguana, the local hotspot near the beach. It was busy and the music was pumping and we whiled the time away til 1am. We said good bye to the Belgians and French as they were leaving next day.
Thursday 19Jun
Was breakfasting in the Mercado, when Aoiffe and Aidan came in. Then this guy came up as he knew Aoiffe. He turns out to be Edward (Irish), who owns Nica Geeks, the solar powered internet cafe that Herman mentioned a few days ago. Small world! He then tells me about Nina, the Irish girl that married Orlando´s nephew. And that Orlando and his family had gone to Ireland for the wedding. I hadn’t realized that bit. Edward moved here 2 years ago. His speciality is organising a yearly pub crawl from San Juan to Maderas in oxcarts. with about 20 people on each oxcart with a DJ etc. They had 1 oxcart last year and this year he procured a 2nd one. It would take an Irish man...
Aoiffe told Edward about her stabbing. She had just arrived in Granada and gone to dinner. On her way home, two locals accosted her and stabbed her in the joint of her arm, to get her handbag. She had to go to hospital for stitches etc. She wont walk home now alone even here. So I think it was a pretty bad shock. Not a nice thing to happen to such a lovely girl.
It rained this morning, so I can have a shower. Phew...
I saw the local firebrigade carting this huge statue of San Juan around town. Behind that was a 4WD pickup truck. The band was in the back playing away. Writing this I can still hear the priest and it is now 11.30 am, so not sure what he is doing but it seems to have something to do with kids as there are a lot of small voices.
Later, I passed by my Spanish school and Sarah and Carmine called me in. I gave a little envelope to Carmine with a little money in it. She insisted on giving me a pair of her earrings. I tried not to take them but she forced them into my bag. I will really miss those I met at the school.
Sarah told me that a chap was killed at the rodeo last Sunday. I was taken aback. He apparently got trampled, then kicked in the head. Over the years 3 people have been killed. It reminds you how dangerous this game is, even though most of the time it looks silly. She also told me 2 local men were killed in a car, 3wks ago, on the way to Maderas, her friends came across, them on their way to surf.
As it looked like rain, I went to the hairdressers. My hair is now SHORT. Not quite where I was going with it. It is ok but...SHORT! Oh weill it will grow back.
Thomas and I went to the Pelican again. Aidan had scarpered to Granada 2 days ago, to meet a lady... Still wasn't back... Aoiffe came up later with Sherry. It was then onto the Iguana. Later a few of us carried on to the Sunrise, a local club but it was all couples and not so comfortable to dance, as locals kept coming up and wanting to dance and I wanted to dance solo.
21Jun
Wrecked tired but went to the beach. Later went to see how Aoiffe was, as she got food poisoning. Thomas got asked on a date by a local girl across the street. Woman just come to him. So I joined Aidan and Garret whom I met in Panama City. Small world. However, Thomas left with the girl for another bar, and ran into her ex boyfriend and his friends. The ex started shouting at Thomas, so he left and sensibly came back to us as he didn't want trouble. Things can get a bit volatile around here, if you are not careful. Thomas told us that she was a cousin of the girl who was murdered and said the local, we hang out with was the lookout when the gringo was killing her. The guy we hang out with seems nice and it is hard to believe that. Although Aoiffe has a few minor stories to tell about him too. I think there was a lot of hearsay and it is hard to distinguish the truth.
Thomas, Aidan and I ended up in the Sunrise again. But I didn't dance, all couples again. But we saw Edward the Irish guy here asleep, with his head on the table.
4am got to bed. Ouch!
22Jun
Watched the Rodeo again. A few people came very close to havign their last Rodeo. One guy had a big cut in his back where he had been gored by the bull. Another got trampled on but walked off with help. Still, both of them came back for more. Unbelieveable!
So cute. This little girl came up to me and was curious about my camera. I left her use it. Her little sister was called Sandra. So cute. While she was taking photographs and in between bulls, this guy stood on the fence and did a little pole dancing. The whole crowd was hooting. Reminded me of my girls... ha ha... The little girl managed to get a photo of the guy who got gored...
Towards the end. The Commentator announced that the Rodeo was now international, as Edward from Ireland was going to ride a bull. Well Edward bounces out riding the bull alright and 2 meters and 2 seconds later he was on the floor eating dirt . He survived! It was hilarious. He had this pink and black leather thing with tassels over his legs, like the cowboys of old, used to wear over their trousers when riding. Mad. Totally Loco.
While crossing the bridge, we watched, a load of local boys, jumping and diving about 30 feet into the river celebrating.
The boys and I ended up on the porch in front of our hostel on the rockign chairs as usual. Orlando was in fine form
and Osvaldo from across the street, was there. They are really sweet to me and always complimentary. I get a big hug from both now. Orlando had these 2 american chaps there too. One has lived here for 5 years and broke his leg recently so is on crutches. There were 2 local girls there too. The rum was being poured generously, as was the beer. Orlando gave me his rum, which I made last. I hate beer but ended up with one of them too, to be polite. There was lots of laughter, with the boys. Slagging each other off again. Orlando put on some music from the 80s. Spirits were high.
All was going well. Until one local girl in front of the guy with the broken leg. He started hitting her. Thomas went to try to protect her. Apparently, she hit his leg. Then it all kicked off. She tried to hit him back started shouting at him in Spanish. Then the guy with the broken leg started yelling at her gringo boyfriend to control his woman. Yeah he was that kind of guy. The boyfriend started telling her off but ended up telling her she was crazy. She said something about him not being Nicaraguan. Poor Elizabeth the owner was trying, a bit successfully to calm things down but that butthead kept aggravating it by yelling. I went over to butthead and distracted him by telling him I appreciated he may have got hurt but he shouldn't hit a woman. He told me I knew crap all and just because I was here a week, meant I thought I knew it all and that I didn't live here. Well I told him I didn't have to live in a place to know you don't do that. What a complete tosser. I think some of the people who move here drink a lot and are often misfits from society. I have seen a few now...
Anyway the girl left in a huff, Butthead was still yapping on about her hitting his bad leg. We ignored him. Thomas had warned me he was a idiot. He then got driven away. Orlando stayed out of it and seemed to be very sad. However, later he chatted with his wife and perked up. He came out with a T-shirt that said Lost in Ireland. We just had to take pictures. Aidan, Thomas and I finished the evening chatting with Orlando. Orlando loves Bulmers and Jameson. He showed me all his photos, postcards and memorabilia he brought back form his 12 days in Ireland. He just totally fell in love with it. His wife came out with his Jameson T-shirt. He was so chuffed, as he had thought it was stolen. She does a lot to make things better for him. We wondered what the story was. We concluded we have to send him something from Ireland when we all get home.
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