San Salvador, Another Christ figure, missing museums

20July
Well I got the bus from Perquin. The bus for San Salvador was waiting to go when I arrived. So off to the big bad bold city. I got a taxi from the bus station for a reasonable price. Surprisingly. The hostel, I wanted was in a lovely leafy suburb near 2 of the museums I wanted to view. I wandered around looking for food but all I wanted was closed as it was Sunday. So ended up in the El Salvadorean equivalent of burger king. Can you beleive it. The food was edible and typical but made me feel a bit off and was not cheap.
That evening, I stayed in the hostel and slept for another change. I ate there and the food was ok.

21Jul Today I ventured into the capital. I had spoken to this Chinese guy on the bus who said it was better not to take anything of value, not even a camera, when walking around, as purse snatchers were know to work the busy streets. El Salvador and especially San Salvador has a reputation. But for me there was no point in going without my camera. So I risked it.

I got delivered by my taxi, right in the heart of the market. He was such a lovely taxi driver and I was so delighted that I understood a lot of what he said. Some people really know how to slow down for non speakers. Others, unfortunately dont.

Unlike other cities, the church and the central park was surrounded by a market, almost crowded out by it, at first pass. It took me an hour or so to get to grips with the layout. Or even find a street name and get my self to the heart. But it was fascinating wandering around the market and checking out the merchandise on offer. The locals were amused and or curious at my presense at times. There were so few tourists. In fact I think I only saw about 4 throughout my whole day in and around all the tourist sights.

I found the cathedral. A pretty impressive sight. A mural, painted by El Salvador´s most famous son, Fernando Llort is on one of the outside walls. He has even decorated part of the White house and MOMO in New York. The art, known as primitive art in incredibly simple and very very colourful. Most unusual for a church. The inside is simple yet quite beautiful.

I did feel conscious though when I was trying to take fotos. I knew I was being watched but mostly it is just curiousity. But you never know.

Later, I was in search of a modern church, that had been decorated internally, with scrap metal. I got distracted and wandered into some streets that I guess were a bit edgy. So thought I had better make my way back. Whilst consulting my map, this local man spoke to me in English and asked if I needed help. I said what I was looking for and he thougth it was odd and nothing special but brought me there. He said he was studying English to become a guide and would I mind chatting. He was really sweet but I was unable to meet him after he had finished his visit to the bank, as I had planned to go to another part of town. It was a shame, as he was so kind.

The glass of the church windows were of a graduating change of colour, which cast a lovely hue on the church interior. The scrap metal figures were most unusual and would be perfectly at home in a london art gallery. It was one of the more unusual churches I have seen.

I got the bus then to this rather large Christ figure. There seems to be a lot of them in Latin America. I am not exactly trying to get them all but they are usually close to other things. However, this is emblematic of San Salvador. As it is the christ on top of the world i.e. The saviour and San Salvadors namesake. It was a nice walk around.

Later that evening I went to this rather impressive shopping mall, close to my hostel. Oh if only I hadnt to carry it all and of course had lots of money. Clothes were so cheap and cool. I went to a movie with popcorn. Ah what luxury. Got a taxi home as it was dark.

We tourists, are still a novelty in El Salvador, so the people are really lovely and not jaded of us. The friendliness is genuine. I was helped so often. Nothing is requested in return. I had so many conversations on buses. Many spoke English as they have been to the US working/living and have come back for various reasons.

22Jul.

Today I went in search of the Museo de Palabra and Imagen (Museum of word and Images). Could I find it, could I heck. I could not even find the street. Even the locals I asked had no idea. Around 11.30 I gave up. Although I saw some Argentinians from my hostel, probably looking for the same thing. I was going to ask but didnt bother, as I knew it shut at 12 for an hour or so.

I wandered off in search of something else to do.

San Salvador has many sophisticated museums and is quite a normal city by western standards. The Modern art museum was amazing mostly because of the hugh external dramatic mural of a naked male. What can I say, it helps. I loved the art there too. Very different from what we have at home.

After an impressive visit to the Ethnology musuem, I was museumed out and went back to the hostel, where I chatted to some of my hostel and room mates. This French man and his son had just booked in. The father had given the trip, including a visit to the surf capital of El Salvador, as a present to his son who had just finished his finals in secondary school. Thought that was pretty cool The son played some guitar for a while which was nice.

I asked the hostel owner where the Museo de Palabra and Imagen was. Apparently it was on a different street then the lone planet indicated. No wonder I couldnt find it. This was one of the main reasons I wanted to visit San Salvador.

This is probably a good time to give a little summary of El Salvadorean history a la Sandra.

In the 19 century due to various circumstances, the coffee growers took over a lot of the land, displacing many of the indigenous people. By the 20 century, 95% of El Salvadors income came from coffee, while 2% controlled the wealth. In 1932, Augustin Farabundo Marti (whose name was taken up by the FMLN) led an uprising of peasants and indigenous peoples.

The military responded by massacaring anyone with a hint of indigenous or who supported this uprising. To this day the indigenous population has not recovered and are few and far between.

In the 70s the issues escalated. Jose Napoleon Duarte, leader of the PDC ran for president and won but his victory was denied amid allegations of fraud etc. An ensuing coup was defeated by the military. The right wingers, as a response to increasing guerrilla activity, created "death squads". Thousands of Salvadoreans were tortured and killed. 1979, another coup by the military etc. overthrew the president and promised reforms, which of course never materialised. As a result, opposition parties banded together and created the Frente Democratico Revolucionario (FDR)and allied with the FMLN (Frente Farabundo Marti de Liberaction Nacional).

The FMLN believed that an armed stuggle was the only recourse. The 1979 revolution in Nigaragua also inspired a lot of people to believe in reforms. Monsignor Oscar A Romero was one of the more vocal. A remarkably outspoken priest of the people. However, Mar24 1980, he was assasinated whilst saying mass. This caused uproar and led to an armed insurection which escalated into a civil war. The rape and murder, of 4 nuns, which I remember from my school days actully caused the Carter administration in the US, to suspend aid to the military. But this was shortlived, once Reagan came in. Still on his anti communist rant especially after the Revolution in Nicaragua, he pumped millions in to the rightwing military anti guerrilla campaign. US500million in 1985 alone. This caused the prolonging of the conflict. If the FMLN got control of an area, the military responded by completely destroying villages etc. El Mazote being one of the worst (see a previous blog).

1982 saw a new president, Major Roberto D´Aubisson. More Death squads were created, targetting trade unionists and any reformers. The FMLN responded by trying to bomb anything that destroyed the economy e.g. bridges, power plants etc. Peace talks were entered into but fell apart due to one party or the other. 1989, the FMLN agreed to participate in elections if there was a postponement. Of course there wasnt. Then the FMLN waged a massive attack on the capital. The military killed 4000 leftist sympathisers in retaliation. Among these "enemies of the state" were 6 jesuit priests, their housekeeper and her daughter, who were shot whilst sleeping.

1990, the UN mediated talks and a human rights accord was signed by both parties. However violent deaths actually increased. Finally 1992, Jan 16, a compromise was reached. The FMLN became an opposition party and the govt agreed to various reforms. Among these were a removal of the death squads etc. During the 12 year conflict, approx 75000 were killed and the US govt gave US6billion to the Salvadoreans govts war. Many immigrated, especially to the US.

End of history lesson

During the armed struggle by the FMLN, a Venezuelan journalist, created Radio Venceremos. This was used to relay information to the population about FMLN activities, policies, and exposing various actions by the govt. including massacres like El Mazote. The radio station equipment was hidden in the hills near Morazon and was protected by various FMLN members during its lifetime. There many women participants on the programs of this station and the programs included current affairs, womens issues, music etc.

This same Venezuelan created the Museo de Palabra and Imagen so that the massacres, and struggle would not be forgotten. The govt certainly did and do nothing to record this era. So the museums that record the history of the struggle and oppression are maintained by donations etc. The museum, was quite a lot more sophisticated than the ones I saw in Perquin in that the building that housed it was well kept and modern. It was like many small museums at home. However, they had many similar fotos of rebels and thier stories. They also had a piece on the struggle of 1932 and Indigenous people. As would seem appropriate, they had built a room specially for Radio Venceremos. There were even recordings of programs you could listen to, which made it quite special. The story of El Mazote and associated books etc. featured highly. The journalist was quite instrumental in capturing the eyewitness accounts and produced the book on the massacre along with Rufina. I am so glad I got to see the musuem.

I went back to the hostel got my bags, a taxi and before I knew it I was in the city of Santa Ana.