On my way into town I met this man selling icecream. He was learning French and didnt have any English so we had a chat in French. He showed me some coins he had which he was exceedingly proud of and asked me If I had any euros, I said I had and he promised to come by later to collect them. However, later I remembered I had given them all to Robert. I felt so bad.
I wandered around town exploring the local sights. The cathedral here 
is amazing with the interior painted in pink and grey slate. I also got to visit the colonial theatre. This reminded me so much of the theatre in Manaus, Brazil, that I am sure they were influenced by each other. I will send them to you if you wish Dan. However, unlike in Manaus, I was left to my own devices. The interior was of sumptions red velvet and has been so well repaired and maintained. The parquet flooring was identical to Manaus but here was left unpretected with everone walking over it, in their outdoor shoes. The murals on the walls were simply fabulous and a delight to the eye, bringing to mind the French masters or Versaille. There was also a brilliant foto exhibition in the lobby.
is amazing with the interior painted in pink and grey slate. I also got to visit the colonial theatre. This reminded me so much of the theatre in Manaus, Brazil, that I am sure they were influenced by each other. I will send them to you if you wish Dan. However, unlike in Manaus, I was left to my own devices. The interior was of sumptions red velvet and has been so well repaired and maintained. The parquet flooring was identical to Manaus but here was left unpretected with everone walking over it, in their outdoor shoes. The murals on the walls were simply fabulous and a delight to the eye, bringing to mind the French masters or Versaille. There was also a brilliant foto exhibition in the lobby. Later I ended up meeting my roomates. Lynn from the UK and Erica from the US. Erica, was big into Couch surfing and had met a few of her boyfriends through it and said that a lot of people were now meeting locals in their area through it rather than foreigners coming into town. We had to laugh.
23Jul
Early next day, I went to the ruins of Tazumal. On the bus I met this lovely gent who spoke to me in English. When I asked him how he learnt it, he said it was a long time ago and remained mysterious. Maybe he was with the internationalistas maybe not. He kindly told me exactly where to get off for the ruins and shortened the journey. There were loads of school groups there and one group took a particular shine to me and wanted to know my name etc. They were all giggly and curious, and acknowledged me wherever I went in the ruins during my visit.
Early next day, I went to the ruins of Tazumal. On the bus I met this lovely gent who spoke to me in English. When I asked him how he learnt it, he said it was a long time ago and remained mysterious. Maybe he was with the internationalistas maybe not. He kindly told me exactly where to get off for the ruins and shortened the journey. There were loads of school groups there and one group took a particular shine to me and wanted to know my name etc. They were all giggly and curious, and acknowledged me wherever I went in the ruins during my visit. The ruins were burial pyramids and were interesting but not hugely. I had wanted to go on a hike but no one was about and it meant meeting with the tourist police so I didnt bother.
24Jul
Today it was adios to Santa Ana and hello bus terminal. I ended up on the wrong bus, as I arrived too early. So it took me an hour or 2 longer. It probably would have been better to get the later bus and still arrive around a similar time if not earlier. Oh well.
Today it was adios to Santa Ana and hello bus terminal. I ended up on the wrong bus, as I arrived too early. So it took me an hour or 2 longer. It probably would have been better to get the later bus and still arrive around a similar time if not earlier. Oh well.
I was in Juayua. A little town described as "hip-yet-quaint" in the lonely planet. A major coffee growing area. It is a superb little town. Many of the buildings have these incredible murals on the interior or exterior walls. Works of art throughout the town. A little cafe I went into was covered in it. I was trigger happy for hours. The whole square and church is just picturebook pretty. I met up with my dorm mates 2 young very friendly mexican guys and a rather unfriendly French Canadian girl. I had a great chat with the guys. One was on his way to South El Salvador tomorrow to meet this girl he has been talking to on the internet. They have never met but coincidently happen to be in the same country. He is very excited and we were too for him. I hope it works out.25Jul
I met up with Lynn and Erica. They were a day ahead of me. We arranged to go to a series of waterfalls called Los Chorros de Calera. The hostel said it was ok to go without the tourist police and another girl who accompanied us had been there the day before. The walk there was nice and not so long. However, there was more water and more people there, so we didnt go for a swim. We started to chat to this young girl in her late teens. She was Salvadorean but had been brought up, if not born in the US. However, she had returned to live with her uncle in El Salvador due to gang problems in the US and was happier for it.
I met up with Lynn and Erica. They were a day ahead of me. We arranged to go to a series of waterfalls called Los Chorros de Calera. The hostel said it was ok to go without the tourist police and another girl who accompanied us had been there the day before. The walk there was nice and not so long. However, there was more water and more people there, so we didnt go for a swim. We started to chat to this young girl in her late teens. She was Salvadorean but had been brought up, if not born in the US. However, she had returned to live with her uncle in El Salvador due to gang problems in the US and was happier for it.
When she, her uncle and 3 young cousins were about to leave. The uncle seemed quite concerned all of a sudden and said we should go too. He said to the others that he had seen 3 young men pointing in our direction with their machetes and he didnt like the look of it. So we all vamosed at a fairly quick pace. Along the path out, the uncle picked up a stick that was lying in a pile. As there was some more, I thought maybe it was a good idea too. I would prefer to have a stick than nothing against a machete. He sent us off in his taxi that was waiting for him and his family at the entrance to the park. The taxi though was a little moto taxi and really should only take 2, max 3. There were 4 of us but we squeezed in. Although when we came to a bit of an uphill, we all had to get out. I had to laugh. We really would have been quicker walking. I dont know if the man over reacted, as I didnt see anything first hand. The young guys could have been just curious but it was better to get out. It was a shame though.
26Jul
Saturday, the girls left. Those left now are couples and not so friendly. I came to Juayua for the "Feria Gastronomical", a food fair held here every weekend. A brilliant tourist gimic that works exceedlingly well. In the morning, hundreds of food and drink stands are set up around the central park. All to the sounds of a DJ and local bands and singers. The food is gooood!!!!!!!!!! Many San Salvadoreans come down from the city, only a few hours drive away for the day or even the weekend. It was buzzing. You can really see the difference though between the wealthy San Salvadoreans in their big cars and sunglasses and the much poorer locals.After an hour or so of deliberation, I got myself a feast and sat down at one of the many tables spread around. This little boy about 8, came over and wanted to sell me headbands. I could see he was hungry, so offered him some of my dinner. He misconstrued and took my whole plate. I had to laugh. I now had a hairband and no dinner. I didn´t have the heart to correct the mistake.
Then this lady, that had been selling wooven baskets etc., asked if she could sit beside me. When I made to get up, she asked me to please stay. I got the impression that she feared being 
kicked off. Reading about Juayua, later I realised that there had been indigenous uprisings here. As a result, the govt. forces along with the coffee elite, brutally crushed the insurrection. Today the indigenous people eschew traditional clothing and language for fear differentiating themelves. Sad indeed.
kicked off. Reading about Juayua, later I realised that there had been indigenous uprisings here. As a result, the govt. forces along with the coffee elite, brutally crushed the insurrection. Today the indigenous people eschew traditional clothing and language for fear differentiating themelves. Sad indeed.While the lady was eating her dinner. A man dressed as a Mexican bandero, including wide sombrero started singing. He came over and sang to me. Oh god was I red but I got a laugh and some fotos and the lady beside me had a grin. I tried to leave again and she said please stay. So I stayed til she finished. I liked my hairband so much I tried to get more but the boy was gone. Typical eh!!
27Jul Sunday.
I J
umped on the bus to this coffee plantation, to see some pot bellied figures carved from hugh boulders found on the grounds. Turns out the ruins are not where their cafe is and I had not seen them on my journey. So I thought better of it and carried onto the next village. I am now on the continuation of la Ruta del Flores. This is a route through various pretty villages Juayua, Ataco, Apaneca and a few others. The route is so called due to the beautiful flowers that blossom along it, albeit not now. 
It was still beautiful. Between the villages, the telephone poles are painted with flowers. All different. Along, the road, are many locals brandishing machetes, some in beautiful leather holsters, like ancient swordsmen on their way to the fields etc.. .
umped on the bus to this coffee plantation, to see some pot bellied figures carved from hugh boulders found on the grounds. Turns out the ruins are not where their cafe is and I had not seen them on my journey. So I thought better of it and carried onto the next village. I am now on the continuation of la Ruta del Flores. This is a route through various pretty villages Juayua, Ataco, Apaneca and a few others. The route is so called due to the beautiful flowers that blossom along it, albeit not now. 
It was still beautiful. Between the villages, the telephone poles are painted with flowers. All different. Along, the road, are many locals brandishing machetes, some in beautiful leather holsters, like ancient swordsmen on their way to the fields etc.. . The 2 villages I visited Apaneca and Ataco are just lovely. Like Juayua, Ataco has some beautiful murals and craftshops. There was also a rather big local market, so had a jolly good rummage around there. I had a lovely day.
28Jul Monday.
Bused from East El Salvador to a village in Northern El Salvador called Suchitoto. According to the LP, it says if you tell Salvadoreans you are travelling to Suchitoto, they give a nostalgic sigh. Well I did mention this to some locals and that was true. It is beautiful. Lots of whitewashed houses, cobbled streets and an air of tranquility. This is apparently what El Salvador was like in a lot of places before the war and various natural disasters. There are many festivals here, none around now of course. It is an arty but non pretentious, lefty village and there are lots of cultural activities here.
I found a leaflet for this new hostel and ended up in this rustic place with gaps between the walls and the ceiling, through which the insects can get in. The big ones and they came. But I have a TV and lo and behold there is a jacuzzi on the level below me. Beat that.
Suchitoto is just above a picturesque lake. A half hour walk takes you down to the lakeshore. I tried to take a boat tour of it. However, you have to rent the whole boat for US20. Luckily enough a family of El Salvadoreans allowed me to tag along with them. 
One of the ladies in the group, an El Salvadorean, now living in the US, was on vacation to her family here. The others were her sister, her kids and husband. She spoke English to me and I had a nice chat with her and the family. The ride across the lake was lovely.
One of the ladies in the group, an El Salvadorean, now living in the US, was on vacation to her family here. The others were her sister, her kids and husband. She spoke English to me and I had a nice chat with her and the family. The ride across the lake was lovely.After the hard slog back up to Suschitoto in the strong afternoon heat, I deserved an iced tea in this rather nice cafe overlooking the lake and was enraptured there for hours just taking in the magnificent vista til the sun went down.
28Jul
I veged for a while watching tv. It has been so long. Later, I went for a walk with our hostel owner and 3 American girls to a 
waterfall. Our leader rode on horseback. The walk was nice, as he knew everyone and it was very scenic. The waterfall flows over rocks like the Giants Causaway in Armagh, N. Ireland. Apparently there are very few examples of this type of rock formation in the world. He thought just 3.
waterfall. Our leader rode on horseback. The walk was nice, as he knew everyone and it was very scenic. The waterfall flows over rocks like the Giants Causaway in Armagh, N. Ireland. Apparently there are very few examples of this type of rock formation in the world. He thought just 3.The 3 girls are all Medical students and were working in a clinic in the N. of El Salvador. The clinic provides free smear tests etc. to local women and was sponsored by their university in N. Carolina. The all loved the experience, albeit not all of them liked the insects.
29Jul
The girls offered me a ride in their rented car, to La Palma, as they were heading up that way to buy some handicrafts. I very gratefully accepted. I booked into this rather lovely hostel overlooking a rapidly flowing river. I took Sonias email address as we will be in Utila the same time.
La Palma is another arty town. 
It is covered in colorful murals etc. The famous El Salvadorean painter Fernando Llort moved here in 1972. He is the one who painted the outside of the cathedral in San Salvador. He founded Naive Art. A trend, still representative of El Salvador internationally. This art is primitive, childlike. Many images are of christ or mountain villages or local farmers. The art is very very colourful. Llort started a cooperative and taught the locals how to create handicrafts using this art. Today 75% of the village makes a living from this. The camera was put into good use again and I even managed to buy some nik naks. I would have bought more but...
It is covered in colorful murals etc. The famous El Salvadorean painter Fernando Llort moved here in 1972. He is the one who painted the outside of the cathedral in San Salvador. He founded Naive Art. A trend, still representative of El Salvador internationally. This art is primitive, childlike. Many images are of christ or mountain villages or local farmers. The art is very very colourful. Llort started a cooperative and taught the locals how to create handicrafts using this art. Today 75% of the village makes a living from this. The camera was put into good use again and I even managed to buy some nik naks. I would have bought more but...
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