Jericoacoara seduces me and takes up most of March

Jericoacoara
Pousada do Tadeu
Sorry if this is a bit diaryish, well more than normal... This is my way of remembering the people I have met. You know me I waffle...

28 Feb.
I left Forteleza and got the bus to jijoca. At lunch time this older chap told me the length of time we would have for lunch which was very helpful as I had no idea. He joined me for lunch and we chatted. He is Francesco, Italian, from Rome. He is blond and tall and slim. However, the blondness just goes to near the roots where they merge with the white. He is a dapper 60 something. He used be a sea captain but then retired and started teaching English and American Literature in a Roman university. He had even been to Ireland and lived in my university town, Cork for a few months. Said he loved it. An interesting chap though. At Jijoca, we changed from our coach to this open trailer type thing with 4WD and seats. Francesco helped me with my bag and we sat together. Being the typical Italian, he has pined me as his love interest in Jericoacoara. I just have this feeling. I think I have taken over from Liz and may need to borrow her ICR surname.
The drive from Jijoca to jericoacoara (jeri) was beautiful. In the hour to jeri, we passed one little village near the sea called Prea but besides that there was just sand dunes and kilometres of endless beach and rolling white waves crashing on to golden sand, with the odd bit of seaweed. oh and a few cows and donkeys wandering aimlessly. I just felt everything wash away, as we got closer to Jeri and felt myself relaxing. It was all the more of a jolt then, when I actually arrived in Jeri. Descending the bus, we were surrounded by Pousada owners. It was totally unexpected. I have seen this a million times in Asia and if I was there I would have been prepared but here in Brazil, it was the first time I had been exposed to it. So I had to garner my wits about me. This German lady came up but her pousada was too expensive. Then some Brazilian guys started talking at me and pushing their photos of their pousada in front of me. Francesco then called over and said he had found somewhere for 25 Reals. Which sounded good but I thought talk about putting myself into the line of fire. The 2 Brazilian chaps were kind of dragging and saying come come and I hadn´t understood a word they said and were beginning to annoy me as they were assuming I was going with them. Then this guy came into my view from the right and just gently and calmly offered me his business card and told me in English he had a room with a fan for R25. In the frenzy that was, my instincts just felt this was right AND it got me out of the line of fire with Francesco. Bless. so I followed this guy, who it turns out, is called Esteban and got shown my room. It was lovely and I threw myself down on the bed and went to sleep for a few hours.
29Feb
I got up and went for breakfast. Then this guy came to the table. He tried to see if I spoke Spanish or Portuguese and realised quickly I didnt. He had very little English but he was a real chirpy type of chap and so up, that we ended up chatting in very broken Spanish and English and managed to communicate. His name is Flavio and he is from Cordoba, Argentina. Then this other chap joins us. He just sat opposite me and the eye contact stayed mostly with me. it was a little disconcerting. But he turns out to be from Montpelier, South of France and is here for Kite surfing. And later though not much later we found out he was here also for the chicas (girls in English). He is funny and speaks in a mixture of French, Spanish and English. I thought we might concentrate on speaking a bit more French, at least then I might understand something but... I guess he was trying to be nice to Flavio too. We ended up chatting for over an hour. When we went our separate ways, I went to an internet cafe then the beach, then wandered around the village that is Jeri, looking for food. Tends to be my main occupation... I ended up in this nice place called Sky, on the beach. Later, I bumped into Flavio and he had met some people called Martin (a Swede) and his girlfriend, Christina(a Brazilian). The conversation was a little easier as Martin spoke both Portuguese and English. He told me that there was Forro up this street tonight. Forro is a form of dance, local to the North of Brazil. Sort of like Salsa wiht the same twists and turns. Later I went for dinner then tried to hunt down this Forro place. Could I find it...NO but I went for a suco and the lady there told me how to find it. She very kindly told me what left and right was in portuguese AND I understood. Getting better... I still couldn´t find the Forro though. The town appeared to be dead and I thought god this is going to be a quiet place. I was about to go home when I saw someone with a food stand, on the street to the beach and thought there must be something down there. So off I went and yea like the whole town was there. I bought a caiparinha and was taking in the scene, when this chap sitting on the footpath called me over. So I sat down next to him and we tried conversation. He had a few words of English and we were able to figure out where we were from and age etc. God people are obsessed with asking about age... His name is Valdemar. I had to stifle a grin, as my immedate thougths were he looks nothing like his namesake, the evil wizard in Harry Potter. Valdemar is 27 and about an inch or so smaller than me. Toned to an inch of his life but very very slim with a rather angular, skinny face. As our conversation was progressing, along walks Francesco, who joins me on the other side. There I was with no one to talk to now I have 2. Over the next few hours, Valdemar and Francesco took it in turns to walk away and come back to talk to me. A guy came up to Francesco and said something about me. Reading the body language etc. my impression was that Francesco intimated I was his. I thought the sheer effrontery. I am just having a conversation and nothing else but he has claimed me. This happened in Munich too, when the girls and I were at this table of Italians. I chatted to one for a while then another came up and I started chatting with him. Well Chap 1, threw a wobbly. and started having ago at chap no 2 saying I was his. I pointed out that I wasn´t anybodies and could talk to whom I please... Puulllleeeease.
It amazes me that many men do not even consider that a woman may not be interested in them. Especially Italians or as I am finding out, Latin Americans. Most woman I know would not really think of going with someone 40 or so years younger than them or assume they had a chance but men... Or maybe it is just me that thinks I would not have a chance with much younger men, well ones I find attractive anyway.. Hmm will have to do more research with my friends on this. BUT my feeling is that most women, even if they go for younger men won´t go much younger than maybe up to 5 or the odd few will go up to 10 years younger.

However, Francesco was a fascinating chap to talk to and informed me, that speaking Spanish was not so hard for him here because Argentinean Spanish was heavily influenced by Italian, as so many Italians had immigrated to Argentina. He also told me that English was about 40% Latin and 40% German. He then left for a while and Valdemar came back and tried to get me to drink another Caiparinha and then go for a walk on the beach. I laughed, Ha ha, I know that game and declined the drink and walk. He smiled and said something about me being very strong. I´ve been on this planet too long.



1st March
I went to breakfast and the usual suspects were there.; Flavio and Stefan were eating. I sat down with them and we began a conversation that was scattered with English, Spanish and French. Again. Then a new girl (Miranda) arrived from the Netherlands. She spoke fluent Spanish, so the poor thing had to translate a bit for us. She and I started to chat and realised we both needed money, so after breakfast we set about getting a buggy to Jijoca. We negotiated it down but it was still excessive. We got our money though in Jijoca and had a bit of a buggy ride along the beach which was nice. By the time we got back it was time for lunch so ended up at Sky. The waiter there, Sulu, decided to take a fancy to Miranda. Like that’s a surprise. Miranda is about 5ft 9 long blond hair and quite curvy. Sulu likes the contrast of pale skin next to his dark skin and doesnt like dark skinned women.

I tried to call dad and succeeded then remembered I had not said happy birthday. Oh god. I tried to call back and could only manage a text, as had run out of credit although only realised later. Pay as you go Sucks.

That evening Flavio, Stefan, Miranda and I went down to the beach, had a few caiparinhas and then went dancing in Planeta Jeri which seems to be the local nightclub. It is cool as it has a dance area outside, a live band and an inside area where the DJ resides. He plays a bit of everything but reggaeton and dance and hiphop seem to be the common dance modes. The Brazilians of course are mostly excellent dancers and it is mesmerizing to watch some of them.


Stephan decided he wanted to try to seduce me. Oh god it was so funny. He was kind of dancing and doing this kind of twirling his finger at me and I was studiously avoiding it. Meanwhile Flavio was trying his best to encourage Stefan and pushing me in Stefans direction which I danced out of. Miranda was in stitches and thought it was a hoot.

Miranda felt a bit ill, so it was only the boys and I who went to Forro. Forro like Salsa, has a whole music following of it´s own. I watched this guy and girl dance and was rivoted. It was really fast and beautiful.
The boys went off to find some chicas, leaving me alone then this guy that I had been watching dance, came over and said was I boring, as 2 men had just left me. I said probably. I thought it was a good line. Anyway he asked me to dance. Oh my god what a dancer. He tried to teach me to dance and at times I was able to follow him. It turns out he is the local Forro teacher. A bloody good teacher at that. So my luck was in. It was wonderful to dance with him though. Incredible and I fell in love with Forro. but of course, it was too good to last and he made a bit of a move and then lost interest when I was not interested. I then ended up dancing with Valdemar, whom I met yesterday as well. He was also a brilliant dancer. Bu I didn’t find it as easy to dance with him. We lost Flavio to a Brazilian girl and that left me and Stefan to walk home together. But he was a gentleman and didn’t make a move.

2nd March
Miranda and I went down to the beach. We had hunted everywhere in Jeri for breakfast but nothing was open. No one turned up in the Poussada to make breakfast and Esteban was nowhere to be seen. So we eventually ended up in the Sky Restaurant again! The music was fab and they had the song I really like there. Found out it is by Vanessa Da Marta and Ben Harper. I have to find this CD.
Ended up on the beach again. and were allowed to sit on the sun loungers at Mosquito Blue, the posh hotel on the beach. They had really nice chips.

3rd March
We ended up having lunch in sky AGAIN. Whilst sitting there this lady came up trying to sell us henna tattos. Well before long Miranda and I had a foot up on the chair and were being temporaily tattoed. I got a gecko (a little lizard) and Miranda got this little branch with flowers along her foot and around her ankle. They were really pretty. The lady than drew 3 stars on the inside of each of our wrists as well. Every one in Brazil has a tattoo even the girls. I have never seen so many tattoos in my life. Here it is much more acceptable than at home. and I have to admit a lot nicer on tanned skin, than on a beer bellied, bald guy. I really want a tattoo and finally decided where to put it when I was in Rio, when I saw Catherines foot. Now I´m thinking of having a second one, on the inside of my wrist too. It looks nice just a tiny one. Now I just have to find the design...
We had just waved good bye to the tattoo lady and her aid that she was trying to marry off to Miranda, when this gentleman came up to us. He was dressed rather fantastically. He had what looked like a coat of mail around his torso and waist. This coat of mail was made of the tops of beer cans. He also had them around his knees. He made a jangling, shwishing sound when he moved. We always knew when he was coming along or where he was. He said that he was trying to help the environment by using discarded beer and coke cans etc. Anyway he made Miranda a mini beer can from a big Skol beer can. He then made me a whistle, that worked and a little box to put it in. It was up to us, if we wanted to give him some money or not. but of course we did. He was just so sweet and had the gentlest eyes and smile... He always said hello after that when we ran into him. Esteban, told me later that he has nicknamed himself "Bin late". "Late" means a can in Portuguese. I thought that was quite clever and amusing. Sulu, was there again and tried to get cozy with Miranda. He was funny. Got a bit tactile towards the end, so now we kind of avoid walking past there too often as he rushes out to chat.


Each day Miranda and I have our mini adventure. I really like the fact that she likes to get a story and gets amusement out of meeting people and simple things like many of my friends. We laugh at silly things. I can completely relax with her. There are no pretentions or attempts to be really cool. She just happens to be pretty cool and funny.
That evening, Miranda and I went for dinner and ran in to Caitlin, that I had hung out with in Pipa. It was a bit bizarre as I wasnt expecting it. I dont think I like her.


Later, Miranda, Flavio and I were chatting in the Pousada and Esteban joined us. We had had odd conversations but he mostly spoke to Miranda, as she spoke Spanish. I found out that he was also Argentinian. It was fun to watch them, as Flavio was even funnier than I thought which came out when he was with Esteban. Esteban turned out to have a really good sense of humour too and the four of us had a giggle, some of it at Stefan, who whilst sweet, is a strange boy. None of us can really understand him and he keeps going on about his chicas and kitesurfing. Esteban mentioned that Stefan had an accident to his head some time ago. Hmm that made sense... We teased each other about mens reactions to women to and how they move on people etc. The boys were pretty open about how they they like women. We had such a good time, that we all went to mama africa´s for the evening. This is the place to go apparently on Mondays. A nice place, again with an open area with salsa, raggae etc.. We were in the roofed area but it was hard to hear so I ended up speaking mostly to Esteban due to positioning. Miranda was feeling tired and Flavio walked her home. When he came back we lost him to another Brazilian woman or maybe it was the same one. God knows. They are such quick movers here. So Esteban and I continued our chat. He is an interesting chap and had a lot to say and his English is quite good. Although I do have slow down but at least he can understand me.


4March
Flavio is now gone off to another place to continue his holiday. We missed him at breakfast.
However, today we went on a fab Buggy trip. We started about 9.30/10. We tried (though not very hard) to get 2 others but failed. However, it was really nice just the 2 of us. We were taken along the dunes and through a a dried mangrove forest. It was truly spectacular to see this forest. These trees/mangroves suspended above the ground by their roots some over a metre off the ground. They look like the ropes of a swing and you can sit under the tree stump on the root. Kind of eerie too. Got some good photos, well Miranda did. Along our trip, we came across a few lovely lakes, that have developed between the sand dunes and fill with rain water during the rainy season. It is a pretty special sight. However, I think later in the rainy season they will be even more spectacular.

We ended up in Tatajuba, a small place soon to be the next Jericoacoeara. There are a few restaurants there with some tables and hammocks suspended on poles just above the water. I loved it. Lunch was fresh fish and rice and salad. But so delicious. However, whizzing in the buggy along the dunes and along the 15km coastline was the best.

Stephan joined us for dinner. The food was not so good but the company was. The restaurant owner and waitress were lovely. However, we were all tired and went home at midnight. Miranda and I chatted for about another hour, while Esteban and his friend Pablo played chess.

5th March
Took it easy today. Not such good weather so Stephan joined us for lunch in Café Brazil. He is really on a planet of his own. Miranda speaks fluent French and I and speak a bit but Stephan insists on speaking broken English, Spanish and French in the same sentence interspersed with chica and kitesurfing.

We went for our normal nap then came to look for Stephan to invite him to dinner for his last night. But caught him kissing a Brazilian girl in the hammock, he has been working on for a few days. God we leave him along for 2 minutes… We hugged him good bye and took off to dinner laughing at his antics. So now we are 2.


We went to the beach, and bumped into Anita a girl that Miranda had met earlier in her travels. Anita came about 6 months to Jeri for a few weeks and ended up staying 3.5 months. She has now come for her last 2 weeks of her travels before she goes home. She knows a few people here and has a boyfriend that works in the local hotel. While we were chatting, this guy caught my eye and offered me some popcorn he had just bought. I declined and carried on chatting but then he came over. He told me his name is Jorge and had been living in Italy and France so spoke French. He came across as a little zany a bit like Stefan. but not quite as bad. Esteban came down too and started chatting to us. He knew Jorge and thougth he was about 48. Then Valdemar came along. Miranda got stuck talking with Rogerio, I think she would have preferred not to talk to him. He was quite keen. We had a bit of a boogie in Planeta Jeri, then wandered along to the Forro. Needless to say the boys pounced on Miranda, Rogerio being the most demanding. I had my usual and now a new one, Jorge appeared. It turns out he is 42 not 48.

We had a good evening but eventually the boys got too much for Miranda and we went home about 4.30am. They can be a bit of a pain. And Rogerio was a bit much. It was funny though they took it in turns to move on Anita, Miranda and I. They arent fussy thats for sure. No such thing as loyalty ;)...

6March
We missed Stefan this morning.
Miranda and I got to the beach with the intention of surfing but got waylaid by this guy (Erivando) selling coconuts. We drank the juice. After, he split the coconuts and cut a bit of the coconut wood off the outside, so we could scoop out the flesh from inside the shell. They are so innovative here. It was so lovely.

His friend then tried to sell us oysters. Miranda and I had never tried one, so thought well now or never. He got some oysters from his coolbox, opened them and squeezed some fresh lemon juice on to the oyster. We did the deed. Much to our surprise, they were nice. So he gave us about 3 more each, all for 5 reals. What a feast. I said in my best Portuguese that they were "fruitos de deus". They understood... eventually. They agreed. I mean where else can you have fresh oysters, fresh coconut juice on a beach all for 1.5 gbp each. Miranda and I were set up for the day. We had our mini adventure.

Later we were waylaid by the dreadlocks guys on the way to the beach for dinner. They, as usual tried to sell us their jewellery. It is lovely but… They are all pretty cool guys but were a bit drunk tonight so even more cheeky. It was funny. We keep meeting the same guys each night and they moan that we keep saying we look tomorrow… Coming back we had to take the long way so we could avoid them and Sulu. The numbers of guys we have to avoid is increasing. We went to bed early again. We are so tired.


7March
Today Miranda and I took a surfing lesson. We had a nice 48year old surfer from Sao Paulo. He looked about 42. Very slim and taller than us, makes a change from the other locals. We had a good lesson but am still not standing. After, we went back to the Poussada and Miranda helped Esteban with registering on a website for hostels etc. We than sat at our usual place on the beach and had lunch. Miranda went for a massage and I am here writing my blog and searching for a camera to buy. Oh yea and researching the Venezuela and Columbia conflict that Ruth kindly informed me of. I do seem to pick my countries or timing eh…
Cameras are proving elusive. I have decided though to go for the one I got for my birthday or it´s sister, which Miranda has and it is a bit cheaper. But it is a hard choice. I really liked my old one.
Miranda and I have checked out a lot of restaurants. We met the taxi driver that brought her here and he introduced us to Restaurant Sabor de Caipira. There you can get a slice of fresh fish fried with rice, beans and salad all for 6reals. It is the best meal in town and the cheapest.
We ended up chatting to Esteban again and trying to sort this blooming website out for him. He is trying to register his pousada on this Israeli site but it is proving to be a real pain. It just doesn´t let Miranda put in her credit card.


8 March
We had our beach outing and later went for dinner again. It wont be long before Miranda goes. We went for dinner and I ordered chicken curry in this restaurant we had not been to before. I got chicken breast, no curry, as the order chef got it wrong and the dozy waitress didnt notice. I was so dissapointed.

We made it to the beach again tonight and met Anita again. We all ended up of course at the Forro. It is Saturday night!! Miranda left a little earlier than I and got walked home by Jorge. He sort of behaved himself. I stayed, as was dancing with Valdemar again. I lost track of time and before long the dawn was coming. He walked with me from the Forro, as it was over this time but of course wanted a kiss, which of course was declined.

9th March
We went to the beach for one last time and had a cake from the ladies we normally buy cakes from. These ladies walk along the beach in the afternoons selling coconut and banana cakes. Oh my god they are delicious. The younger one is a bit grumpy though and doesn't like it when we buy from the older one.
We went up for a last sunset on the sand dune. The little dog that keeps coming up to us especially Miranda, came up to us again. He just loves our sarongs. He is so cute. It was an ok sunset but not as good as a few days ago when Miranda got some nice shots and we had a fab caiparinha then too which we didn't today. We went to dinner in Restaurant Sapoa. This is one of the best in town and I got my chicken with curry sauce, finally. This is not like an Indian or Thai curry but made with cashew fruit and spices, and coconut, Gorgeous though.

We ended up back at the pousada and of course ended up our evening chatting with Esteban which has become part of the routine now. Each day the bus comes in at around 5pm and 1am and the pousada owners, Esteban among them vie for clients at each bus arrival. So we keep Esteban company while he waits for the bus. Not good for getting sleep though..
I said my goodbyes to Miranda as she was to leave at 6am. I will miss her a lot.


10 March.
Miranda left today. I awoke at 5 and decided that I would see her off at 6. Am sad to see her go. It is so not going to be the same with out her.

10-13Mar. Over the past few days it has been just myself and Esteban with the odd guest here and there. We have whiled away a few days or evenings just chatting. I am correcting his English and the odd time I get a Spanish lesson. It was quiet and chilled. I have also been trying to sort out buying a camera. Oh god what a nightmare. never try and buy on Ebay if you are trying to deliver to an address other than your own. I have wasted most of the last 5`or 6 days on this.
One night I tried to cook. Esteban thought he would like to try. It has been a while since I cooked for anyone. I thougth I really fancied a stir fry with no meat. Bad move. I really didn't cater for my audience.
Argentineans eat meat. Lots of meat. They don´t really do spicy or in fact that much vegetables from what I can see. I cooked probably the worst stir fry of my life. I put in too much water and the vegetables were a bit watery anyway and I really didn't have good seasoning. So all in all a disaster. It was not favourably received. Esteban decided he was not that hungry after all. Not really that surprising. So now he thinks I can´t cook and tells me so. So if anyone is reading this, who has tasted my cooking and actually enjoyed it, Can you please, pretty please leave a comment to that effect so I can show Esteban. Thanks... I will be indebted...and will even cook for you on my return.

One evening, Esteban got this movie from a friend, called Zeigest. It is a pretty interesting documentary. We started to watch this at 1.30am and although I had wanted to go to sleep, I ended up riveted. The first section was on religion and how the main characters in each religion share so many common traits. e.g. most born on 25 dec, of a virgin mother etc. The 2nd section I didn't really see, as Esteban had seen it but the 3rd section was on how the financiers!/bankers, over the last 100 years have set things up in the states to make as much money as possible and often this means starting wars. I know that the Lusitania was sunk to bring the US into world war I. But I didn't know the Vietnam war had been started in a similar fashion. This led on to the fact that the twin towers, when they collapsed, they fell as if they had been demolished professionally, like the fall of many purposely destroyed skyscrapers. The conclusions being drawn that this was done on purpose and not by Al queida.
It even showed the steel columns in the basement that had been cut. It was pretty eye opening. I recommend it. One of the days, Esteban was heading to a nearby costal village called Prea. I had nothing to do so asked if I could come along. Also having tried to buy a property myself or helped others look at stuff I was curious. Also I want to buy a summer place myself and wanted to see what was here and the criteria Esteban was using to buy. I had passed Prea on the way to Jeri. I didnt think much of it, as the beach ws covered in seaweed but on revisiting it, I changed my mind. The beach was clean again and it is like Jeri was about 7 or so years ago. It is becoming popular and is a big attraction for kitesurfers, so is a good investment. I liked it, it was pretty rustic and chilled and very Brazilian.


13th mar
I was sitting at the computer in the reception. The place had been really quiet and then... This burst of energy came to the desk in the form of Corinda (Oudekirk on den Eise,(or something like that…). Netherlands), Yair (Madrid) & Elliot (NZ). It was hard to resist their infectiousness energy and friendliness but I was taken aback, as it had been so quiet over the last few days, even whilst Miranda was here. I found myself retreating. It was so weird, as normally I would have become caught up in it immediately but it was so sudden after so much quiet that I had to back off. God I have chilled too much.
They are just so bouncy. But I wasn’t quite ready for it yet. But they were just so mad and friendly it was hard to resist. They have certainly livened the place up.


14 March
Pottered around, did a little beach visit, I seem to spend most of my mornings chatting with everyone over breakfast which takes me to lunch time… Then its lunch then I beach it. Then I venture to the internet café and maybe snooze for a while. Then up again, shower and dinner.
Tonight I went to the beach with Corinda, Yair & Elliot. The others dissapeared but I met Anita, Miranda´s friend and we ended up having a bit of a boogie in old Planeta Jeri until about 3am.

Anita and I then did our usual stint to the Forro hall to fight off the locals. The usual suspects were there. Valdemar, Jorge, Filippe, Lucas(Anita´s latest fan) and my old friend whose name I don’t know. I spent my evening taking it in turns to dance with some of them. I couldn’t dance at all with Filippe, as it didn’t seem to work. But dancing with Jorge was fun and I am getting used to his dancing. And a new guy, quite cute, long blond hair, kitesurfer my ideal but within minutes he was glued to my neck and his hands were wandering; I cut that one short after a dance.

Let me explain about Filippe. He is the cutest, sweetest little thing. Always playful and with a smile on his face. He is 16 and about 4 inches shorter than me. He has taken a shine to me, even though I have explained that I am way too old, old enough to be his mother. But he is my shadow at the beach and Forro now. All I want to do is give him some sweets and send him to the play ground.
Lucas and Filippe gather at Anita´s pousada every evening at 9pm to have a smoke with her. Lucas is getting a little keen though and keeps dancing behind her. That would drive me nuts. Filippe just dances around with us and tries every now and then to put his head on my shoulder and sneak a kiss. but he is so sweet you cant get angry at him. Being at the Forro really is funny. It was another late night and I saw yet another dawn.


16Mar,
Yair came up to me excitedly and introduced this guy (Steve) who turns out to be Irish and knows Corinda from a previous destination. I had said to the others I would make some Irish coffees to celebrate St Patrick´s day and so invited Steve who hails from Middleton just around the corner from home. What are the chances of that, in this small world, 2 Corkonians meet in the middle of nowhere in Brazil for St Pats day. Fabulous!!!

Tonight we just stayed in the poussada. There are 4 Israelis staying here now that have become friendly with us and we just chat etc.

Esteban noticed a spider had come in and was searching for it. Previously on 2 other occasions cockroaches came in and of course went directly to my room, no one elses just mine. I really hate them. So was jumping around and had to get poor Esteban to kill them. I just knew the spider had gone into my room. I opened the door and sure enough there was this bloody great spider. over an inch in length besides the legs. It was big. OK!
These creatures know I hate them and just come to me. But there is no way I can have these wandering around over my face at night. Anyway Corinda got a bowl and placed it over the spider and we got it out by moving the bowl across the floor.


17Mar
I met the Corinda, Yair & Elliot again for breakfast and we headed off for a walk along the coast, we lost Elliot as it was too hot for him but we were met by Alex, who is here on holiday from Brasilia. He has the most amazing sing song voice I have heard in brazil. He is such a friendly chap.

The views along the coast were just beautiful. Totally empty beaches and sand dunes. We walked a few hours but were not in time to wave Elliot goodbye. That was a shame. But I now have inherited a Frisbee from Elliot, as Steve was supposed to take it and didn’t.

We got back to the pousada and I commenced my Irish coffee concoctions. Whey hey the cream actually stayed on top. I gave one to the gang above and to the 4 Israelis who are also staying here as well as 1 to Esteban. Then the Irish guy showed up with an Aussie (Simon), and an English chap (Ben). I got high praise indeed from Steve, who had not tried an Irish coffee before but thought he might now like it. The coffees seemed to go down well and I made each of them including the Israelis say slainte. Ah yes a little bit of Irish comes to Jericoacoara. One has to try you know...

It was a shame it had to end but Corinda and Yair had to leave on the 10.30 bus to Forteleze. I will miss them and their energy and fun. I ended up having a bizarre chat with Esteban. He asked me whether I would rather be the mouse´s head or the lions tail. The closest phrase I could think of that matched one of ours was "is it better to be a big fish in a little pond or a little fish in a big pond". Anyway that killed a few hours.


18Mar
It is very quiet now that the others have gone. Boo hoo. But went to the beach and wrote a bit more on my blog, had my dinner and then to bed. Such bliss to be in bed before midnight and not have to get up again until 9.45. It was nice to be by myself for a while, even though I missed Miranda, Corinda, Yair and Elliot. Two friends of Estebans arrived today. They seem nice, Alexsandra (An Argentinian school friend) and her husband Marcelo (Uruguay).


19Mar
Was thinking of having a surf lesson so when I met Carlos, the surf instructor, fate had decided. Whey hey I got to stand up 3 times then was too knackered to do much else, so sunbathed. The funny thing was when I asked Carlos for a lesson, he asked me if I had been looking at him surfing. I had to laugh I said no, that he had come upto myself and Miranda last week and told me he gave lessons. God the arrogance to think I had been watchin him. oh man.. Then he asked me to go for a drink with him that evening. I said what if I was with someone else. He said that his girlfriend or my boyfriend didnt have to know. Man these guys are unreal. Strangely enough I declined.
Met Anita for a Sundown juice and discussed Carlos. She had gone out with him and he had got a bit heavy. These guys get around. I went back to the pousada and went to bed. About 11.30pm, I got up, showered and went to meet her again. Whilst waiting for her I met Paulo, Esteban´s chess friend, another Argentinean and we got stuck standing under a restaurant roof for about an hour, as it started raining cats and dogs. We saw all the poor caiparinha stands pack up after all their work putting everything out. I was lucky he speaks English and is an interesting chap so we had a good chat. Then I went to Planeta Jeri and met Anita. Another girl from Sao Paulo joined us too. She is working here now. Of course before long Lucas and Filippe arrived. Lucas to antagonize Anita. He was really being annoying and dancing right behind her and each time she told him go away he just came back. So we went off the dancefloor. A few guys came up to her but then Lucas came over each time to stake his claim and seemed to tell the boys that she was his. As she was really not enjoying herself like this I just got cross at him and told him stop and that was enough. He was annoyed and splurted an expletive but he left. I think Anita was surprised that I could be so, as she commented that I was very strict but sometimes you just gotta put some boundaries. It worked. Later that evening he came over and apologised.
Anita wasnt in the mood for dancing, the whole thing with Lucas put a damper on things, and I think she was mentally preparing to leave Jeri, as she was going the next day. We swapped email addresses and said our goodbyes. Another one gone. Oh dear.


20Mar
Well I have to leave tomorrow. I went to the beach with the intention of surfing but was too tired. Saw Filippe & Lucas. Came back to the pousada and finally the pc was free so started to put my photos on to cds. Got the most awful fright at one stage when I thought my photos of Brazil didn’t copy to my IPod and I had lost everything but no, it was ok. Phew!
Esteban invited me to lunch, as his friend Alexsandra had cooked. She is a chef and works in Ibiza.. It was lovely. She is a very good chef. I had been thinking what to eat and was just going to have chips. At present I am tired of the same food even though I like Brazilian food, I get bored easily. I have a few favourite restaurants here and certainly some favourite dishes but....
Most Brazilian meals consist of Boiled rice, a salad usually tomato and onion and maybe lettuce. Then a bowl of beans in a sort of sauce or their own juice with flavouring. Then either a slice of fresh fish or grilled chicken or beef. It is so simple, yet delicious. Then there are the juices (otherwise known as sucos). Oh my god. Everywhere serves either fresh juice or juice from puree. I think Brazil must have the highest sales in blenders in the world, as they are everywhere and us travelers are very grateful. After juices, is Acai, The best dish ever. This is a berry (purplish) from the Amazon that is blended with water and has the consistency of a blended frozen yoghurt. Slices of banana and granola are added to the blend and food heaven begins. Well for me. I saw a program before I left London. Acai came top of the league for vitamin C content of every fruit in the world. So not doing too bad on the old vit C and have not had a cold since I got here. Whey hey. Apparently it should hit London soon, so you will be having Acai along with your skinny lattes etc. before you know it. Decaf of course…
Throughout a lot of Brazil, I had been going with Alex to Per kilo restaurants. A great invention. It is a buffet restaurant and you pile the stuff on your plate. Then take it to the counter and you pay per weight of your plate. Although, by Pipa, I had gotten so tired of them.
Here, there are no per kilos but there are a lot of fab restaurants. One of my favorites was Sapoa. There I had grilled chicken with a cachew fruit curry sauce. So different from any other curry I have had. Add to that had a few visits to the falafel restaurant here. Even had a risotto in a very kitch restaurant called "Chocolate". However had a fab pepper steak the other day and spent the night in pain with cramps. The next day had grilled chicken and the same thing but less painful. I think it might have been the sugar in the fruit juice I ordered. Or maybe too much rich food. God knows. For some bizarre reason they like to add sugar to the juices here. I keep forgetting to tell them not to put any. Not being able to eat much wheat, dairy or sugar products is severely limiting. A right pain in the rear. So am struggling some days. Breakfast is just fruit and fruit juice for me although for others there is always a cake, biscuits and bread. So normally by midday I am chomping at the bit for food, as fruit just doesn’t cut it. My cholesterol is going to go through the roof as I am eating far too much chips and crisps just to keep my energy up or to snack on. No chocolate or sweeties for me. Although I had a bit of carrot cake that Idamar made, the other day oh god it was sooo good.
So enough about food. But I have just eaten and it was on my mind for a change.

21March
I didn't leave. I am still in Jeri. I think Esteban is seriously worried I will never leave. It is near Easter and I was supposed to leave for Camocim but they aren´t running the bus there during Easter. So that means I have to go to Forteleza. I so don't want to spend Easter there. I hate the place. I just don't know what to do. Esteban tried to organise that I go on a tour with some buggy but the next morning this guy came to the door and started talking about tours but didn't seem to know anything about me going on a particular and dropping me at Camocim. He thought he could get me to Camocim but of course when I finally got to speak to Esteban later, it turned out that there was another guy that came by but as I had not been expecting 2 guys I had left before the correct one came. So I missed my ride.
So I have to decide to go to Forteleza or stay here. I checked flights from Forteleza to Manaus, but as it is Easter I can´t book anything. Finally I decided to find another Poussada. I have to leave Esteban´s as he is booked out.
I thought if I come around the bus times then I will see anyone who has rooms. So I found a nice man who had a room free and gave me a really good deal. Esteban helped me move to Pousada Pescodores. He is such a sweetie. He really helps his guests.
It is a lot further out than Estebans and is on the edge of the village and closer to the Jericoacoara National park. I think Esteban thought I was a bit lost, as he said so. I guess I was I just couldn't decide what to do and I wanted to spend Easter somewhere nice. When I am in one of my indecisive moods, I do feel lost. But I felt better about not leaving Jeri for Forteleza. Whilst Esteban was there of course, 3 big bugs came and he had to kill them for me. I hate the big ones.

I went to bed early and didn't bother having dinner as I couldn't think what to eat. I was so tired.

23March Saturday,
I woke up this morning feeling the best I have felt in a long time. I had a beautiful restful sleep. I may be out side of things here but it is quieter and I certainly get more sleep. So this is what it feels to be normal. I so rarely wake up feeling refreshed. Even if I get a good nights sleep, I am usually catching up from a bad nights sleep or been out too late again. Anyway it was great. I felt ready to leave Jeri for the first time since I got here and eager to carry on with the rest of my trip. However, I made a decision. I would go to Forteleza on Easter Monday evening on the 10.30 bus so I could fly on Tuesday morning to Manaus and take the risk of waiting to book my flight at the airport. Most people would have flown by then as they didnt get Monday off here.

I pottered around on the beach, it was quite hot and then went to the beach that evening after my normal snooze and shower. As it was easter, it was very busy. Loads of people were in from Forteleza and there was a buzz in the air. The first person I met was Alan (a guy I had met at my first Forro), He had come back to Jeri for easter.
I then went to my favourite Caiparinha man and got a pina colada for a change. I then met Jorge and had a bit of a chat with him. Then Anita´s Brazilian friend came along and we sort of had a chat in broken Portuguese and sign language. There didn't seem to be much sign of people leaving the beach but we went to Forro about 2.30am. I wish we hadn't. It was dead. I had not seen it this dead. It was bizarre as there were far more people around than normal. It was my last Forro. but after a while Jorge came and asked me to dance. It was his birthday. Then Valdemar danced with me. and I came close to seeing yet another dawn but left earlier with the Brazilian girl. However, not before arranging to go horseracing with Valdemar. I had spoken to him about it before and had wanted to go but never got around to it as I could never find him during the day. So tomorrow I meet him at 2.

24 March Sunday
I thought I had better tell someone where I was going so that left Esteban as the only person left I knew.
At 2 I met Valdemar and we agreed a price and package. It was just the 2 of us and we were to ride over the dunes, then have a rest and swim at this pousada and then come home. It should take about 4 hrs. It took us just over an hour to get to the pousada. We went over loads of sand dunes and passed some little houses etc. It was really isolated and very beautiful.

While we were at the pousada it started to rain pretty hard. We had to while away some time so ended up with Valdemar teaching me how to play pool, as there was nothing else to do. He was quite good at teaching and I asked him why he didn't teach dancing or capoeria, as he does both well. He just didn't want to and had his horses. He showed me pictures of his daughter and his nephews. He had a lot of baby photos on his phone. He really loves his daughter and is the very proud father of a gorgeous 2 year old. However the mother took his daughter to colombia so that was sad.
It seems quite common for people here to have kids, then be with other people. I know that this is becoming the way at home too but it seems more normal here. Kind of sad though.
We had some food then made our way back but got stuck in the rain a few more times and had to take shelter first under some trees then at a friends sort of house com bar where he had some beer. It was interesting as the guys here were smoking and he was quite disdainful that they were stoned. He doesn't do drugs and is proud of the fact. By the time we were on our way it was pitch black and could not go faster than a walk. It took us hours to get home. I had to follow Valdemars horse. Valdemar was brilliant and never got so far a way that I was too far behind or if he did go too fast, he waited for me to catch up. I couldn't see much but it was pretty cool being on a horse in the dark on the sand dunes. It was 8pm when I got back. I thought I had better tell Esteban I had returned. Well he hadn't even realised I had not returned, as was too busy preparing to go to dinner with one of his guests before she left. Bloody lucky I hadn't need him then eh.. ha ha
I checked my leg which was beginning to be very sore, to realise I had a 2 inch wound that was red raw from chaffing off the leather of the stirrup. Ouch. not good.
I went back to the pousada, fell asleep and didn't make it in time for dinner. Bummer. I searched for an open restaurant but all were shutting down, so I went to the supermarket and bought some food and ate it in the pousada. Then the most heavy rains came, absolutely torrential, so I went back to bed.

25 Monday
I brought my bags to Estebans, as it was easier to take them from there to the bus stop and I had said I would come in to say goodbye.
However, when I tried to buy my ticket, I could not buy it til 6pm, then only to find out all tickets were sold. So I bought for Tuesday night instead. Of course that left me with nowhere to stay. I had to break the bad news to Esteban. I´m sure he didn't believe me. It was a bummer, as all day I had been psyched up to go away and then to find out I could not, was disappointing. Had a bit more of a chat with Alexsandra and Marcelo. They are pretty interesting people and I like chatting with them but I know they struggle with my speed of speech and with English. Even though they speak quite good, it is difficult and they are on holiday. I try not to take too much of their time and also they are Estebans friends and I don't like encroaching too much on his personal life.

I went to dinner Sunday night to Bistroganoff. I met this guy Shaun, I had seen around quite a lot since I arrived but never spoke to him. He limped around and used a stick and had this amazing tattoo. We ended up talking for a few hours. He is from San Francisco but had immigrated to Sweden when he met a Swedish woman in Thailand and they married in Dahab in Egypt, which of course I have been to around a similar time too. So we had loads to chat about. He explained how he had become disabled. He had a ruptured aneurysm about 5 years ago and was lucky to be alive. He had been in a wheelchair but was now walking around... He spent 6 months of the year living in Jeri and then the other 6 months he spent in Sweden and Vermont. He now worked in a small company which he had accidentally found through the restaurant where his brother worked. He now roasted coffee beans for the gourmet market and gave coffee tastings and training etc. He also bought coffee. It was fascinating how he ended up in this situation and with such a cool career. His brother, through the same restaurant, met the tattoo artist next door when he tried to sell his artwork to them. When they saw his artwork they asked him to become an apprentice tattoo artist and he is now so good that people come from far and wide to get tattoos from him. Shaun showed me the tattoo on his arm and it was pretty impressive. Too bad he is in the states or I could got to him for my tattoo. Oh well

26Tuesday
I had been chatting to Alexsandra when she noticed my leg. It was weeping like crazy. oops not a good sign. She went to ask Esteban for stuff he had used for his sore leg. This seemed to help and I was grateful. They were on their way to Prea, where Esteban was trying to buy some property. I had been a few weeks earlier with him and it was really nice.
I went to find this restaurant that Shaun had recommended, that had the best Acai in Jeri. As I was ordering, Shaun arrived. So he joined me. We sat and chatted for god knows how long when another friend of his called David arrived. Another American from New york. David has been to Jeri about 5 times and has met Shaun on several of those occasions. Another chap joined us called Rodrigo. Rodrigo was from Salvador but had lived in London and for 3 years in Brixton and travelled to several places in Africa with his work as a journalist. I think I arrived at the restaurant about 12, I finally left at 6pm. They were a really fascinating bunch of guys, incredibly intelligent and well travelled. We talked so much politics but also racial politics . And hey they were pretty good looking too. Rodrigo says he is black, as his mother is black but he has amazing blue green eyes which is a stunning combination with the dark skin. David also has a black mother and an Italian father but had blue green eyes too but milky skin. But both had seen racism and knew poverty etc. We spoke about Zeitgest and both Shaun and David had seen it. Shaun was of the same opinion as me and David said like all conspiracy theories, it had holes, but of course that was true but still we agreed that it was quite a good movie and a bit scary.

I had to leave to join Esteban to say goodbye but said I might join them later if I could. I knew Esteban was going to dinner with his friends at another friends house, so I wanted to catch him before he went. When I arrived, he was in his usual place, swinging in the hammock with his cup of mate, flask of hot water to top his mate and cigarette in hand... He seemed in no rush to go anywhere. We sat and chatted and asked him what time he had to go to dinner but he ended up coming to dinner with me, as the dinner at his friends was a bit later. So we had a nice dinner and he helped me with my bags to the bus. I am convinced he stayed to make sure I got on the bus, as he didn't believe I would actually go and didn't leave till I was seated on it. There was no way he was letting me miss it. I had to laugh. anyway it was very sweet of him. I will miss him. We have had some really good conversations and he has become a friend.

And that was it. I was on my way out of Jeri. I was sort of sad but sort of excited about moving on to Venezuela.

Breaking point and departures.

24Feb,Whilst I was packing, the taxi arrived to take us to the bus station in Recife, but turns out that it might be cheaper to take the taxi between the four of us rather than the bus. It was decided to take the taxi, so we all bundled in, bags and all for the 5hour ride. Brilliant!!We arrived around lunch time in Praia de Pipa. Bit of an out of the way beach resort. I liked it though. There was a good stretch of beach and it was a nice up market yet not uncool village. There are a lot of little arty shops and a very laid back vibe. And nice restaurants. That evening Aarty met some South African friends she knew from travelling and Caitlin, Alex and I went in search but we walked at least 3 times up and down the street for a bar. None seemed to satisfy. I didn’t mind some bars but apparently they were too western. We ended up in this restaurant/bar with an ok singer/guitarist but it was putting me to sleep and the others weren’t exactly stimulated by it either. So we left and went to one of the western bars. I was very tired and so conversation was difficult. I found myself going quieter and quieter, til I had nothing to say. I´m getting a strange vibe from Caitlin, which is making me uncomfortable as if my thoughts are being dismissed. I also really got annoyed at this idea that to hang out in a western bar was so awful or indeed with hanging out with other backpackers. It would have been nice to find a more Brazilian bar but we didn´t so I just wanted to make the most of what was available. I just got a little irritated at the critical vibe. When Aarty and her friends returned, I joined a few of them on the dancefloor. So when the South African girls left it, I just remained dancing. This worked out brilliantly, as I met these Brazilian girls, one of which had lived in London for 5 years, 3 of which was spent with an Irish boyfriend. The music was fab and this Brazilian was this mad, vivacious, brilliant dancer. She, her friend and another girl had so much positive energy. I found myself coming to life and being energised by their company and their lack of pretentions. Aarty came up to tell me that she and all the others were heading to find another bar. I said I would come later, as I was enjoying myself with the Brazilians.
About 2am I left to find the others which had by now disappeared. I thought they might have gone back to the Pousada but they hadn´t, I thought about going back to the Brazilians but being the lazy sod I am I choose to sleep in a swinging chair on the verandah, until Alex and Aarty returned rather inebriated at 3.30 am.
25-27Feb
Went to the Praia dos Golfinhos. The beach was quite impressive and hardly anyone there. I looked for dolphins but none to be seen. However, I met people who said they found them there everyday. Bummer. I really would love to have swam in the water with the dolphins but such is life. Went to Praia do Amor in the evening. I discovered I must have ate something bad so went home to get familiar with the toilet again. The next day I stayed close to the pousada for obvious reasons. But it seemed to have sorted itself out quite quickly. That evening we got the bus to Natal. We booked into this mad hostel. Built like a castle with a fake moat to add to the scene. All the rooms had names of historical characters and were made of heavy wood with iron handles etc. All very kitch but good fun. We did a bit of a walk around Natal and finally found a restaurant that was both open and catered for all our needs.
So far Natal looks pretty enough. We booked the buggy tour for tomorrow. With emotion. Well this means you go around sand dunes and get the shit frightened out of you and you pay for the pleasure. I wanted to go but again, I seem to be going really quiet. I seem totally without energy. I am not sure why but I feel increasingly alienated. What ever vibe I am getting it is draining me. I´m trying to analyse it but. I guess some of it is, I am always seem to be in the wrong place when decisions are made by the group or am around but don’t feel part of the group. Some of this is because I feel a bit spaced and tired. but am also getting tired of being told we are doing this or that and do I want to come along as opposed to being there when decisions are made. There is a group of 3 and me.
When the time came to go on the buggy next morning. I finally made my decision.
I had had enough and thought what am I doing, I always stay and don’t leave and put up with situations I don’t like, just to be polite. So I announced in our room that I was heading to Forteleza on the first bus that would take me and not going on the buggy tour. I thougth, there was nothing worse then spending a day doing something wonderful and hating it because you are not with the right people or in the right frame of mind. I think they were relieved. I was. I think Alex was a bit surprised not sure. He didn’t say anything. But he had already decided with the others to stay a few days at various beaches near Natal and I just wanted to get to Jericoacoara. I know it is weird but I had this strong feeling to just get there and I would feel better. I just wanted to chill and stay on a beach for a week or 2. It has been a long time since I just rested and did nothing. I think I have been with people 24 hours a day for nearly 2 years. I can probably count on one hand how may days I have had where I was alone. I need some space… I NEED TO BE ALONE. OK enough of the Greta Garbo impressions.
28 Feb
So I headed off to Fortelezza. I wasn’t terribly impressed on arrival and the street of the hostel was off-putting to say the least. But the hostel was ok. The lady who owned it was called Giselle and was 3months pregnant and suffering from morning sickness. She told me where the restaurants were and then told me to take off my watch and to be really careful. I thought great. I was in no mood to be mugged and knowing my luck it would happen tonight. So I had some leftover crisps and nuts and went to bed. Oh bliss bed before 10pm; The luxury.
29 Feb.
Got a taxi to the bus station and finally found the platform etc. for Jericoacoara. Strangely enough I felt elated to be alone. I was on my way. After a few hours we stopped for lunch. This older gentleman who had heard me speak earlier told me that we had a lunch stop and had 20min. That was kind of him. Normally I have no clue. I ate heartily as was starving. The older gentleman turned out to be from Rome, called Franchesco and 70 years of age. He had lived in Cork my university town for a summer among many other places. He had been a merchant seaman then captain for 30 years before teaching American and English Literature in a Roman university. A fascinating chap, but I have a feeling he is a typical Italian and his interest in me, may not be completely platonic.

23Feb, we got to Recife. This is supposed to have an historical part but we heard it was not so safe and driving through it, in the bus we were glad we had decided to skip it.
We arrived at our destination and just as we were trying to figure out where we were, a tourist guide miraculously appeared and brought us to the hostel (Albergue de Olinda) we had wanted to go to. What service!!!
When we got there we met this Canadian girl called Caitlin. She was talkative and traveling alone so came along with us on our food search. I was ravenous. We wandered for about 2 hours throughout the old core of this colonial town. Finally, we went back to near where we started. It was pretty enough but not so special that we would have made such a detour. However, I was so hot, hungry, tired and bereft as to the loss of my camera that I really wasn’t in the mood for sightseeing so didn’t fully appreciate the town or give it my full attention. But it seemed awfully empty.
Later, at the hostel another girl joined us called Aarty. The 4 of us joined up for dinner and again walked for a short while to come back to near where we started. There is a theme here... As nothing appeared to be remotely happening Aarty left for bed. Caitlin, Alex and I ventured further to the beach area and found the night life. We ended up having a nice time watching the locals and chatting. It was 2am before we got to bed. I am so tired. I want to go out and see things but need to sleep to. What a dilema. Getting sleep is so difficult.

Viva colonial, UFOs and losses.

12 feb. Alex and I set off for Sao Joao del Rei. Pretty little town. We went to this place recommended by our guide book as family run pousada. Well it was family run. This little old couple had it and could not understand Alex´s Portuguese. Their son/granson repeated everything Alex said and they then understood. It was a little weird, in a funny way. Religious statues were everywhere and you felt you had returned to Brazil circa 1955. But we stayed and it was so cheap. We wandered a little around the old town then found this restaurant and had our fill. Next day we got the bus to Tres Coracoes, and a few hours later, the bus for Sao Thome das Letras, our destination. This was recomended in Footprint. We ended up in this mining(slate/stone) town in the mountains. It was quite male dominant at first but I guess that was to be expected. On wandering around,we found some quite cute shops and restaurants. Although most were closed. Apparently it gets busy during the weekends... Well we wandered around looking for witches stones and UFOs. Allegedlyly, Sao Thome has the most UFO sightings. Strangely enough we saw nothing except afew water tanks that were painted to resemble UFOs and a hostel called ET with a little ET on the roof. We did find this place which had old bricks with which you could make designs. I did the CND sign and Alex did a hand with a V sign.As we had exhausted the supply of tourist sights and open businesses, we took the first morning bus out of there We returned to Tres Coracoes (where Pele was born). As we had a few hours to kill, we went in search of a possible Pele monument, strangely we found it, in the centre of the commercial area in a little park named after their hero. It was a nice stature of Pele with the four sides of the pedastal/base covered in the dates of the world cups that Pele had played in.We got back to Sao Joao and went to dine in this lovely restaurant. We even got wine. It was lovely.

15 Feb
This morning Alex exclaimed the fact that he and I, had been out on Valentines night (last night) in a posh restaurant oblivious to it´s significance. Neither of us had ever done that in any of our relationships or want to, as we don,t celebrate Valentines. We had to laugh. We went to the Sao Joao train station, took in the railway museum, including a working selection of steam engines. Ten 3
Thirty we boarded this really cute steam engine to Tiradentes. Oh it was so gorgeous. The driver had to really let some steam out, to get out of the town and all the cars in the centre of town had to wait to let the train pass. People on their morning walks or with kids waved and watched the little train. It was soooo lovely. The views were gorgeous too. Tiradentes was really pretty and quaint. Named after the martyred hero Joaquim Jose da Silva Xavier, both poet and dentist, nicknamed Tiradentes (tooth-puller). A really picturesque, photogenic, colonial town. Again lots of arts and crafts and restaurants but pretty. ................ My camera was full of photos of steam filled pictures and steam trains. God I can be such a trainspotter. But I just love going on trains and more especially steam trains. But by 3 we had seen it all and still had to wait til 5 for the return train. So we went to the chocolate cafe. hmmm hmmm. lovely got some lovely chocs and chocolate drinks. 16Feb, we took the bus to Congonhas. This to see the famous basilica do Bom Jesus de Matisinhos designed by Brazils answer to Michelangelo. Aleijadinho son of a Portuguese merchant and African slave.

Oh my god but the sculptures were amazing. The were so realistic but not glamourised but were real everyday people and even though some of the scenes were the stations of the cross, the stautes were portrayed as if it were everyday life.

The artist and art would be incredible enough with a fully abled body but this artist lost the use of his hands and legs at the age of 30, so had a hammer and chisel tied to the stumps so he could continue his work. Makes you think doesn´t it.
We then tried to get to Ouro Preto. What a nightmare. Alex´s book said there was a new highway from Congonhas. Er no.My book said there were 3-5 daily buses from this town (Conselheiro La Faiete) near Congonhas. Well there were only 3 and that was per weekend and we had just missed the one on saturday.We were well and truly stuck for 8 hours in this rather modern town with few redeeming factors. But at least I got all my photos onto my ipod in the local internet cafe.We gave up on the idea of seeing Ouro Preto and Diamantina. We had overdosed on colonial towns and buses.We got back to Sao Paulo and stayed in the same hostel, we had stayed earlier.
17FebNext day, we booked our ticket to Salvador, did a little sight seeing and even managed a few museums like the Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo. We then met Vivian for a short while and got Alex´s credit card. Fab we were on our way. 18 Feb, arrived 6am at the hostel in Salvador after a 32 hour bus ride. Phew. We went to sleep. We have a nice hostel near the sea. Nice area. I needed time out so stayed in the hostel all day. I just felt shattered. We had been in so many towns and buses over the last few days, I just didnt want to move anymore. Alex did a bit of sightseeing. 19 Feb
Next day we went to Pelourinho. The major sight in Salvador. We walked all the way from the beach to the historical town. It took us over an hour and a half, but worth it. We saw a good bit of Salvador. as we passed by a few neighbourhoods and some impresive colonial buildings and parks. Pelourinho was pretty. Again very touristy, with the prerequisite arts and crafts shops and restaurants. Still it was lovely and well maintained, except some of the outer fringes, which were in the process of restoration. At least tourist money is of some use and helps preserve this beautiful Pòrtuguese/Brazilian architecture.
20Feb
Today we went to a few more historical sites including this church (Ingreha NS de Bonfim) renowned for its miracles. There is a room off the church, the walls of which, are covered in fotos with notes attached. The ceiling has plactic arms, legs etc hanging from it, again with notes. These are all from people with problems in these areas requesting miracles from Bonfim otherwise known as christ, I guess... I had taken some fotos and we headed to this fort 20mins walk away. When I went to get my camera, I realised it had gone. I ran back to the church and retraced my steps. I just dont know what happend to it. My bag may not have been shut and it may have been taken. I dont know. I did know I was not happy. I was bereft. I felt naked without my camera. Devastated.cShit.
That evening the hostel had a traditional bahian food night. So myself and my French Roommate, Agnes, ate here. After the owner of the hostel joined us for some food as did Alex. The owner then heard this Argentinian guest playing guitar in another room and invited him in whislt taking over the guitar. This 40+ owner just belted out songs in French, Spanish, English and of course Portuguese. The Argentinian and he took turns playing. Agnes also had good rhythm and played the bongo and again the others took it in turn to play that also. Some older Brazilian guests came also and did a little dancing and singing and chatting. It was a really fab evenings entertainment and helped less the negative effects of my loss.

21Feb.
So today I spent searching for the tourist police for a police report for my camera insurance claim. Not too bad actually and the policeman who helped me was sweet and spoke a little English which eased the pain. Agnes had joined me and we chatted on the way. It turns out she is regular to Brazil and studies capoiera and works as an assistant director in French Film in Paris whilst living on a house boat. A really cool girl but not in the least pretentious or trying to be cool. After I went in search of the federal police to see what state my passport was in. It only took 4 hours of walking and asking directions, even of the military police, who hadn´t a clue by the way. AND after all THAT the gits at the gate wouldnt let me in. AAAAAAAAaaarrrrrrrrggggghhh
22. Feb; Alex and I went to the bus station booked our tickets onwards and left our luggage. Neither of us could be bothered navigating back into town so stayed in the shopping mall for 8 hours. At one cafe we sat at. We saw these shop girls getting all gigly and rushing out of their shop. They returned dragging this 20something guy and proceeded to take fotos with him etc. We could not figure out what he was but we guessed it was big brother or some boy band. Having escaped albeit reluctantly, he was then waylaid by another gaggle of girls in another shop.
He had 2 friends, who seem bemused at the fuss their friend caused and then bored of it.

Sao Paulo and catching up with an old friend.

9-13 Feb.
We arrived Saturday evening, cooked and slept. Sunday Vivian, my friend whom I met in India through work and her husband Raphael, picked us up and took us to this terrific restaurant that was a buffet but French. The best breakfast ever. The food and pastries and fruit were delicious. They then took us to this fabulous village, outside of Sao Paulo. Embu terra de Artes. It was full of stalls and shops selling the most amazing handicrafts. Tourists were few and far between and most were with a guide. We were very lucky that we had such fab friends. It was such a lovely day. Raphael was a mind of information. His dad loved history and passed on this to his son and his gift of story telling. His dad was a famous actor on the radio and his voice was used in many novellas or adds. Quite a character I think. Between Vivian and Raphael we learned about Sao Paulo. But also their story of where they met and went to school and where their parents worked etc. It was such a lovely day. It gave us a brilliant insight into SP. One few tourists get.
Monday, Alex and I tried to find the places Vivian and Raphael pointed out and tried to remember the stories that went with the buidings. SP is a fab city and the metro is superb. There are many fine buildings and fabulous museums etc.
Monday evening Vivian and Raphael took us to this lovely restaurant then on to this most elegant bar that was in one of the highest buildings in SP. It was like going into a gentlemens club. The panoramic views of the city displayed at its best as it was a clear night. We got some wine and chatted in this rather salubrious bar that would rival the best in many a top hotel etc in London. It really felt special. Mind you it didn´t come cheap but it was so worth it. We said our goodbyes until we would meet again in a few days. Vivian very kindly agreed to receive Alex´s credit card in the post and to hold it until we came back.

Parate and fab cocktails

9yth Feb
WE booked a boat tour that took in 3 beachs. It started off great. Sun was out and the tourists were mostly Brazilian. We went for a swim in the first beach and enjoyed the scenary. The the clouds rolled in and we didnt bother swimming anymore. by the time we got to go home the torrents of rain had started but had finished by the time we moored.
We ate at a nice little per kilo and then wandered again. It was dry thank god. We found a great little gallery exhibiting this photographer who had made friends with a guy who had been broung up in the Rocino Favela in Rio and who had been imprissoned by the age of 30. This criminal organised that the photographer capture the happiness of the Cariocas life in the favela. The quote photographer siad he didnt find that much happiness but lots of spirit. His photos were amazing and if I had been on holiday I would have bought his book. but maybe I will get the chance sometime as I took his website details.
There was a shop that took my eye and the owner came out and asked me to come in. He asked my nationality as they all do here. He was delighted and started to tell me tales of his Irish friends. One was in Hamburg running the club that the beatles played in and they asked him to manage him. He said no as he didnt think he had the time or that they were anything special. Yup he messed up. This german chap also made coctails and asked me to try this liqour he made. It was cachaca but with cloves and cinnamon etc. fab. He made me a coctail with this cachaca and with lemon and passion fruit. It was still a caiparinha but the best I have had. WOW. He sat with us and chatted some more and introduced us to his son, (who did much of the artwork in his shop at only 15). He had been born in Brazil to German parents but they moved to Germany than the US. Whilst in the New York he met a Brazilian (There are loads there). He fell in love, returned to Brazil then married a different Brazilian and finally settled in Parate. A facinating, lovely man.

8th Feb

At first Alex and I walked around and thought ok so this is ok but then we realised we were in the new town which apparently is unsafe. Never felt safer. so there goes that. Then we found the old town by the sea. WOW. There was this beautiful church at the corner of the square with the water on one side and a little marina and the old town on the other. Some guys were playing guitar in this little cafe, just tourists. I would love to have sat there but Alex wasnt keen. We walked around the town, snapping our way along sandy or paved streets. Gorgeous little boutiques selling arts and crafts or bijou restaurants. expensive. We dined in Thai Brazil, a restaurant recommended by Lauren and our guidebooks. My curry was loaded with sugar. I never had a curry like that. It was also the most expensive place we have eaten. We both came away rather dissapointed as we both were so looking forward to this. We contined our explorations of town until the monsoon rains put a stop to everything. We had to stand in a doorway and watch the torrents pouring down and flooding the streets. Eventually it eased and we went back to the Pousada.

Last few days in Rio

7thFEb
Alex and I got the evening bus to Parate. We have left Rio. boo hoo.

6th Feb,

God I´m wrecked. Went to Copacobana to see our last bloca. It was a nice atmosphere down there. Although nothing compares to lapa. 3 nights in a row out late and now I go for another. Tonight is our last night so Alex and I meet up with Pascale in Santa Theresa. There is of course a party going on and a bloc at one of the street corners. The usual collection of caiparinha stands are gathered to sell their concoctions. We decide on this one with some friends of Pascales. IT is owned by Dolores. She has a stand that is some levels up from the others. very posh. Turns out she speaks 5 languages and is a tour guide. Has travelled all over Europe and S. America. Brilliant character. She told us of all the future parties that we were to miss. Oh I so could have stayed there. Dolores was married to an Argentinian and loved it ther ebut thinks Argentinians are a litte snooty and think they are superior. After several weeks in Brazil and meeting some Argentinians I agree they do think they are a little better than their neighbours. In some respects they are a little more sophiticated but... who knows. I got to say good bye to Reginaldo and Bruno another friend of Pascales. Pascale is doing ok in her new life but I worry and it was sad to say goodbye to her. I hope she will be ok.

5thFeb
Exhausted after our late night out but still up for a party, Lauren and I ventured out to Lapa. It was mad. We only went out for a short while but stayed out til about 4-5am. We were approached by several Brazilians wanting to chat etc. I left Lauren to find Pascale and encounted 3 different guys who shouted my name all in about a 5 minute walk. It was hilarious. Some of those we met had immigrated to Germany etc. but had come back from Carnival. We found a great little mini bar with a great dj whom I chatted to for a while before his set. Teh music was total cheese but went from Abba to 90´s dance tunes. Lauren and I had a blast. Tehre were loads of people just enjoying the buzz and dancing and loads of transvestites and characters of all types. Brill night. Lauren kissed this absolutely gorgeous darkskinned guy and was very proud of her conquest. We then headed off to a live band a few minutes away. There were 100´s there. Met a Spanish guy who wanted to know how we girls handled all the attention we got from the men here. I told him most of the time it is just friendly banter and nothing more, sometimes though you just want to stand and watch but someone always comes to chat.

SAMBADROME here we come

4th Feb.
Finally the day we have been waiting for has arrived. Got up late to conserve energy for tonight. It is going to be a long one. We got to the sambadrome. The sambadrome is a specially created stadium with standing areas and seated areas (rows of concrete seats) for observing the samba schools parade. There are 14 schools and 7 or so appear each night. Competition is fierce and schools spend about 6 months if not more creating the floats and costumes that appear for just one maybe 2 nights of carnival. It is the most amazing spectacular thing that one can see that is not a natural phenomena. The dancing and the costumes must cost a fortune and yet they dont have a lot of money but the price of the tickets I believe go back into the schools. Each school writes a theme song and that is sung for the 1.5hrs that their parade lasts. The have to parade no more and no less than 1.5hrs.
5 of us at the hostel had tickets but not for all the same sector. Alex and I were together. We got to the sambadrome about 10. It was packed solid. We stayed til the very end which was about 5.30am. By then our backs were giving up. There were about 10min intervals between each school so we got to sit for those. But while a school was passing by there was no way we were going to sit and miss a minute. It was just so amazing. Alex and I took 100´s of fotos.

30 Jan:

Today I stayed in. I was feeling really tired and eventhough the sun was out and it had ceased to rain, I remained hostel bound. I finally got around to updating my blog and was busily sorting my fotos out when Pascale came over and asked if I wanted to lunch. At that stage I was ready to go out. We went in seach of food and found a per kilo place. Then we set off to find her new landlady. to sort the room out. Landlady never bothered to turn up. However, a friend of the house, Fillou tried to open the door with a hanger, which thankfully, for security reasons failed. Then finally Reginaldo woke up. He lets us in and we had a chat. Reginaldo, no relative of the famous Brazilian footballer, is an economics graduate from Matto Grosso. In his early 20´s and spoke converstational English. He came to Rio to find a good job but with quality of life included. In Sao Paulo, apparenlty it is all work and no play. Hence his choice of Rio. It was really interesting to chat to him. Then arrived, Diego, an amazing character out of a South American movie. In his 30´s with jet black long hair, and black eyes. Looks like he should be a gaucho on a horse with the requisite clothes. A bit of an actor. PAscale said she would love to introduce him to a casting agent. He appeared to understand what we said when we spoke English yet didnt. always. Pascale and I got the impression he could not read or write either. He paints henna tattoos for a livving and was heading off to an Island so he could miss the carnival as he said the madness was too much and he wanted sleep. Then Philippe arrived about 20, he had an american girlfriend a few years back but after a few months she had to move away. He seemed sad at this. but he was bouncy and funny and had only a few words of English as did the others. We were introduced by way of dvd to a Brazilian band with a name that in English meant the thinker. This is a pretty inteligent band that mixes hip hop with ethical politics. The boys and Pascale smoked and we chewed the fat so to speak. It was fun and I learnt a few words of Portuguese. Renata, then arrived. She is to be Pascales Roomate. A tiny skinny brazilian. Pascale bought a little ornament that was very like Renato and hung it up in the room Renato was thrilled. She knew of James Joyce and the conversation took a litature turn. It is amazing that someone that can discuss Joyce is living in such a place.
We finally went back to the hostel to find Alex in a bit of a state. He had been on the beach and whilst asleep, someone had stolen his shorts with his wallet in it. He lost some reals, dollars and his credit card. He cancelled his credit card but before he could do so the thief had spent nearly 1000 pounds. The person he spoke to, to cancel the card, didnt say if he could get his money back, so he was trying to ring the bank. It was a nightmare trying to get the right numbers etc. quite a mess.
We cooked some dinner in the hostel and had some caiparinhas to get over it.