A rodeo... but not a stetson in sight.

Saturday 14 June
It is the festival of San Juan, the patron saint in this town. There are mini fiestas, each weekend. For the whole month of june, San Juan will host a rodeo. The rodeo, is where a person, usually a male, tries to ride a rather irate bull for, as long as they can. There is some rope tied around the lower stomach area to cause discomfort to the bull, so it bucks when it is released from the pen, with the rider on top. Well that is how it appeared to me.

The Rodeo ring was 15 min out side of town, so I walked. Inside this open field was a large ring, surrounded by10 foot wooden fences topped by mesh. Two sections had seats. To one side, was some other areas, fenced off. This was where the bulls were kept and where the rider mounted the bull. The crowd awaited anxiously for the first bull. It didn’t disappoint. But it did throw its rider off within a few seconds of release from the pen.

However, then the fun begins. Young lads in their teens, early 20s and the odd older person sit inside the bull ring and display their er em testosterone… by taunting the bull. The fences allow the young lads to escape the horns of the bull, if it heads in their direction, a little too vigorously. About 30 boys, are all trussed up in their cool gear showing, displaying their "manliness"... Some of the bulls that came out actually laid or knelt downwhen they had thrown their rider. I felt sorry for the bulls. They appeared to be in pain, terrified or exhausted and preferred to get the hell out of the ring, back to the corral with the other bulls as quickly as possible...

Some bulls had more stamina and ran around the ring. This was the exciting part as the boys would make a mad dash and there was a massive scramble up the fences to escape a nip of the horns. At one stage, this 40something chap, totally drunk was getting a little too daring.

There is always one…

Ah yes the false confidence of alcohol. I saw that some of the boys were trying to keep him away from harm but he wasn’t having any of it. You could just see it was an accident waiting to happen. Later, there he was in front of this bull getting ready to charge. Of course he wasn’t quick enough to avoid it and ended up under the bulls legs. He was on the ground for about 30 seconds and it was difficult to see if he had been hurt. However, he got up and didn't appeared to have suffered enough, as he was back making an idiot of himself 10 minutes later. It wasn’t quite the rodeo you see in the movies. The quality of the bulls alone didn’t allow that, let alone the riders. But it was more simple and the better for it. And there wasn’t a cowboy hat in sight, Well except one. Dallas it wasn’t. Although the guys herding the bulls back into the pen showed some skill in lassoing the bulls.

A few gringos then added to the numbers. Joined by a few more when they saw some others there. They had this young little bull, and a 12 year old came out riding it. Then an older woman took her chances on one of the young smaller bulls too. Fair dues…

Sunday 15thJun
I met Aidan (Mr. Donegal), who now resides in the room next door to me. The other Irish chap is Thomas from Dublin. In the Mercado we ran into an Irish girl, Aoiffe from Co. Clare. There seems to be quite a few Irish here. I am surprised. Aidan has a huge bandage on his forehead, as he split it open diving into the swimming pool. We have a chat now and then and today met in the Mercado (market) at breakfast and spent about 3 hours chatting.

Aidan, told me about a local girl that had been murdered at noon in her boutique Nov 2006. She had been going out with this American chap called Eric Volz, living in San Juan. He got charged with her murder because a local that had been acting suspiciously around the boutique said he saw him. However, apparently 10 people saw him in a meeting in Managua, 2 hours drive away, at the time of the murder. He was nearly lynched by the locals and had to break his way out of this house he had locked himself into. He was convicted even though there was no real evidence allegedly. It created a bit of a nasty sentiment here in San Juan against gringos (foreigners). He feels that he was convicted due to an anti US feeling. The trial seemed to be set against him and only 3 of the 10 witnesses were presented in court. On appeal, he was released and now in hiding in the US. Another retrial is imminent. So the story is still not over. I read about on the internet. It is a sad case, as there is still someone out there who should be convicted, if this guy didnt do it.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Volz

That afternoon, I was on the beach, and this young chap came up, he appeared to be rather tipsy. He is studying at the local university. Told me I had beautiful eyes and was like a mermaid. And wanted to go for walk on the street with me. I told him I was old enough to be his mother, but the message wasn’t getting through. What can I say. I still got it, what I have, has yet to be decided though.

Later this Canadian joined us and then got distracted by this child trying to play a game. The Canadian (Rob) asked me to help teach hopscotch, so thought that was a good escape option. So I spent an hour playing hopscotch on the beach with a 10 year old and a tipsy 35 year old. What can I say.

The boy had trousers on that were a mans, but had been cut and tied with some string so they stayed up. His t-shirt was dirty with a few holes in it. He was vague as to where he was living but turns out he was here from a nearby village and staying in San Juan for the weekend with his brother and was probably sleeping on the beach. We took him for something to eat. But when we brought him for pizza to a gringo restaurant, he seemed quite intimidated. He barely ate the pizza but we got it put in a bag and he took it away with him. We chatted to this Nicaraguan, called Hermann, who when he heard I was Irish told me to go to Nica Geeks to meet Edward an Irish chap that was very nice.

I went to this bar with Rob for a few drinks and met some of the local expat crowd. Many were Canadians too. It was a nice evening and the people were friendly. I still haven’t done any surfing. The waves were to be 12 feet tomorrow, so I was advised not to go out.

I was in my usual seat at the Mercado, when Aidan and Thomas came in and sat beside me. They told me they were heading off to Maderas and had a lift organized and did I want to. There were the 3 of us, 2 Belgians and 2 French (Vanessa and Antoine). Orlando the owner of Hospadaje Elizabeth was driving. Well we sped to the beach, I was in the back with the French. It was bumpy ride and I was glad that my rear end is so padded... For a man that has only one arm, he drives well but like a maniac. We still don’t know how he lost it but don’t want to ask.

I rented a surfboard but didn’t manage to get up on it as the waves were pretty ferocious and I kept getting cramps. At lunch time, Vanessa & I went over to join the boys on Majagual beach. It was this magnificent empty beach with just a few local low key properties backing on to it. Apparent the owner has been offered 2 million to sell but won’t.

While walking along the beach to lunch with the boys, I met Esther. I had met her earlier in Café Negro (one of the best bookshops I have ever seen, especially travelling) and she had recommended a book on Nicaragua. She chatted about her work with Doctors Without borders and about her work last year in the mountains 2 hours from Cartagena, in Colombia. I said I had not been aware it was so bad to warrant they being there. She corrected my education. Apparently as it is near the coast there is a lot of drug running, so FARC, the military etc. are battling it out for territory. This means of course the locals are getting caught in the crossfire. It is pretty bad. She figured that even many Colombians don’t know or want to know as they are fed up with it. She was really lovely girl and I would liked to have had more time with her.

After lunch with the boys, I went back to surfing, succeeding in redeeming myself and catching a few waves. However, I didn’t get to stand. The cramps restarted. I think I didn’t drink enough liquid and I didn’t stretch. Bummer.

Orlando collected us. He seemed to be dead chuffed to have so many Irish. Aidan was organizing a fishing trip for the next day and we all agreed to go. The electricity was still off and then we realized we had no water for showers either. I was able to wash my hair in the sink though. Nicaragua has a lot of problem with electricity cuts. A oil is used to provide electricity, the costs have escalated recently and power supply is erratic.

18Jun
We´re going fishing. We got into this plastic boat that could seat about 10 and spent the next 3 hours motoring around the coast, fishing rods out. I didn’t even get a nibble but Thomas nearly caught a beauty. However, Aidan and Antoine were the only ones to get something and keep it. Aidan caught this long fish like a sword fish with amazingly sharp teeth. Antoine caught this lovely yellow fish all in the last 30 minutes. We got dropped off in Majagual beach. It was glorious, but hot so didn’t venture out to much from the shade of the little thatched, wooden restaurant. There was a lot of banter between us 4 Irish. Really fun bunch of lads. It has been a long time since I have had that. It was like being with the gang form uni at home, as there was a lot of rib taking and slagging off about jackeens, culchies, county rivalry etc.

When Orlando came to pick us up, he had the Irish flag on the front of the 4WD and had on his Guinness hat. Hilarious! Aoiffe ended up waving the flag all the way home, as it fell off and Orland had to rescue it. He was so chuffed. I just wish my Spanish was better so I could communicate better with him.

Still no showers upstairs and but enough has come back to flush the toilets, which were beginning to smell. Thomas allowed me to use his shower downstairs, which was mighty nice of him.

That evening we all went to the Pelican, a 5 star hotel. They have happy hour from 5-8 Wed and Fri. with 2 for the price of 1 cocktails. Really cool bar and most of the gringo set, be they backpackers, tourists or residents head there. We then sauntered to the Iguana, the local hotspot near the beach. It was busy and the music was pumping and we whiled the time away til 1am. We said good bye to the Belgians and French as they were leaving next day.

Thursday 19Jun
Was breakfasting in the Mercado, when Aoiffe and Aidan came in. Then this guy came up as he knew Aoiffe. He turns out to be Edward (Irish), who owns Nica Geeks, the solar powered internet cafe that Herman mentioned a few days ago. Small world! He then tells me about Nina, the Irish girl that married Orlando´s nephew. And that Orlando and his family had gone to Ireland for the wedding. I hadn’t realized that bit. Edward moved here 2 years ago. His speciality is organising a yearly pub crawl from San Juan to Maderas in oxcarts. with about 20 people on each oxcart with a DJ etc. They had 1 oxcart last year and this year he procured a 2nd one. It would take an Irish man...

Aoiffe told Edward about her stabbing. She had just arrived in Granada and gone to dinner. On her way home, two locals accosted her and stabbed her in the joint of her arm, to get her handbag. She had to go to hospital for stitches etc. She wont walk home now alone even here. So I think it was a pretty bad shock. Not a nice thing to happen to such a lovely girl.

20Jun
It rained this morning, so I can have a shower. Phew...

Lying in bed at around 7am, I heard the band start up. Ah yes its friday and the fiesta of San Juan. Every weekend its the same. The church has a hell of a sound and you can hear it throught the town. The priest is more like the leader of the band than a priest with a good voice and a personality. Some of the songs have a salsa beat and there must be a synthesiser there too as there seems to be a lot of instruments. You can hear the crowd whooping and clapping. I will have to go to a service over the weekend, just to see what is going on. Church was never this good at home.

I saw the local firebrigade carting this huge statue of San Juan around town. Behind that was a 4WD pickup truck. The band was in the back playing away. Writing this I can still hear the priest and it is now 11.30 am, so not sure what he is doing but it seems to have something to do with kids as there are a lot of small voices.

Later, I passed by my Spanish school and Sarah and Carmine called me in. I gave a little envelope to Carmine with a little money in it. She insisted on giving me a pair of her earrings. I tried not to take them but she forced them into my bag. I will really miss those I met at the school.

Sarah told me that a chap was killed at the rodeo last Sunday. I was taken aback. He apparently got trampled, then kicked in the head. Over the years 3 people have been killed. It reminds you how dangerous this game is, even though most of the time it looks silly. She also told me 2 local men were killed in a car, 3wks ago, on the way to Maderas, her friends came across, them on their way to surf.

As it looked like rain, I went to the hairdressers. My hair is now SHORT. Not quite where I was going with it. It is ok but...SHORT! Oh weill it will grow back.

Thomas and I went to the Pelican again. Aidan had scarpered to Granada 2 days ago, to meet a lady... Still wasn't back... Aoiffe came up later with Sherry. It was then onto the Iguana. Later a few of us carried on to the Sunrise, a local club but it was all couples and not so comfortable to dance, as locals kept coming up and wanting to dance and I wanted to dance solo.

21Jun
Wrecked tired but went to the beach. Later went to see how Aoiffe was, as she got food poisoning. Thomas got asked on a date by a local girl across the street. Woman just come to him. So I joined Aidan and Garret whom I met in Panama City. Small world. However, Thomas left with the girl for another bar, and ran into her ex boyfriend and his friends. The ex started shouting at Thomas, so he left and sensibly came back to us as he didn't want trouble. Things can get a bit volatile around here, if you are not careful. Thomas told us that she was a cousin of the girl who was murdered and said the local, we hang out with was the lookout when the gringo was killing her. The guy we hang out with seems nice and it is hard to believe that. Although Aoiffe has a few minor stories to tell about him too. I think there was a lot of hearsay and it is hard to distinguish the truth.

Thomas, Aidan and I ended up in the Sunrise again. But I didn't dance, all couples again. But we saw Edward the Irish guy here asleep, with his head on the table.

4am got to bed. Ouch!

22Jun
Watched the Rodeo again. A few people came very close to havign their last Rodeo. One guy had a big cut in his back where he had been gored by the bull. Another got trampled on but walked off with help. Still, both of them came back for more. Unbelieveable!

So cute. This little girl came up to me and was curious about my camera. I left her use it. Her little sister was called Sandra. So cute. While she was taking photographs and in between bulls, this guy stood on the fence and did a little pole dancing. The whole crowd was hooting. Reminded me of my girls... ha ha... The little girl managed to get a photo of the guy who got gored...

Towards the end. The Commentator announced that the Rodeo was now international, as Edward from Ireland was going to ride a bull. Well Edward bounces out riding the bull alright and 2 meters and 2 seconds later he was on the floor eating dirt . He survived! It was hilarious. He had this pink and black leather thing with tassels over his legs, like the cowboys of old, used to wear over their trousers when riding. Mad. Totally Loco.

While crossing the bridge, we watched, a load of local boys, jumping and diving about 30 feet into the river celebrating.

The boys and I ended up on the porch in front of our hostel on the rockign chairs as usual. Orlando was in fine form and Osvaldo from across the street, was there. They are really sweet to me and always complimentary. I get a big hug from both now. Orlando had these 2 american chaps there too. One has lived here for 5 years and broke his leg recently so is on crutches. There were 2 local girls there too. The rum was being poured generously, as was the beer. Orlando gave me his rum, which I made last. I hate beer but ended up with one of them too, to be polite. There was lots of laughter, with the boys. Slagging each other off again. Orlando put on some music from the 80s. Spirits were high.

All was going well. Until one local girl in front of the guy with the broken leg. He started hitting her. Thomas went to try to protect her. Apparently, she hit his leg. Then it all kicked off. She tried to hit him back started shouting at him in Spanish. Then the guy with the broken leg started yelling at her gringo boyfriend to control his woman. Yeah he was that kind of guy. The boyfriend started telling her off but ended up telling her she was crazy. She said something about him not being Nicaraguan. Poor Elizabeth the owner was trying, a bit successfully to calm things down but that butthead kept aggravating it by yelling. I went over to butthead and distracted him by telling him I appreciated he may have got hurt but he shouldn't hit a woman. He told me I knew crap all and just because I was here a week, meant I thought I knew it all and that I didn't live here. Well I told him I didn't have to live in a place to know you don't do that. What a complete tosser. I think some of the people who move here drink a lot and are often misfits from society. I have seen a few now...

Anyway the girl left in a huff, Butthead was still yapping on about her hitting his bad leg. We ignored him. Thomas had warned me he was a idiot. He then got driven away. Orlando stayed out of it and seemed to be very sad. However, later he chatted with his wife and perked up. He came out with a T-shirt that said Lost in Ireland. We just had to take pictures. Aidan, Thomas and I finished the evening chatting with Orlando. Orlando loves Bulmers and Jameson. He showed me all his photos, postcards and memorabilia he brought back form his 12 days in Ireland. He just totally fell in love with it. His wife came out with his Jameson T-shirt. He was so chuffed, as he had thought it was stolen. She does a lot to make things better for him. We wondered what the story was. We concluded we have to send him something from Ireland when we all get home.

3 Countries in a day...Nicargua at last..

Well let me start this blog by thanking all of you who actually read it. It is so nice when someone actually tells me they read it. It always comes as a surprise. Even more surprising when they keep reading, and like it. Actually a bit of a shock. Ha ha. So thanks for reading and the really nice feedback.

After Robert left, I stayed in Luna’s Castle for another few days resting, reading, sorting laundry, books etc out. I felt a bit alien in Luna’s, as this time I didn’t know anyone and everyone seemed to know someone. Although a few staff recognized me and chatted a little.

One morning I sat next to this young newly qualified doctor, from Canada. He was a well traveled, intelligent chap and the strange thing is once one person talks to you then it opens the way for those around you to join in. So had a great chat him and some Americans.

On the evening I was buying my ticket to Nicaragua, I overheard some people discussing going to a movie in Allbrook. So I joined them, after I bought my ticket. They were nice people and “Prince Caspian” was lovely. We all came out pleasantly surprised that it was good. It has been so long since I have been to a film.

Next Morning, at Allbrook, I got the 11am bus out of Panama. At about 2am. I was deposited in the town before the border and stuck there for 5 hours. This El Salvadorian lady decided she was bored so chatted to me about the Bette Midler movie and then some soap that was being shown on the TV in the waiting room. I filled her in when she missed bits in pidgin Spanish and sign language. I think she was bored and liked to talk. I end up with so many random conversations in some unusual circumstances. It is bizarre but I like it.

Got to Panama/Costa Rica border 7am. It was a bit confusing as I had no clue what was going. However, with a little sign language and guidance from the conductor/ driver, I ended up in this room. Our luggage was lined up on the floor. Why, became clear later. A lovely cocker spaniel, I had been admiring, was lead in and sniffed all our bags. Even though I’m sure I have nothing, there is the fear that the dog will smell something. Of course it would be so easy in the dorms of the hostel to put something in my bag. As these thoughts were going through my head, the dog finished his duties without finding his quarry. We walked to the Costa Rican side and went through the process again.

We were picked up by our patient driver and for the next few hours I sat next to Rutgar, from Amsterdam. I thought he was English due to his accent but that was due to his living in England for 6 years. We spoke our search for non conventional work, books, politics and travelling or course. He was going back to this place in Nicaragua where he had met this chap (Edward, I think) through a hostel. Edward owned this mini park of primary forest. However, he had created and maintained trails and was trying to build some eco friendly cabanas. At present, he was staying in this little shack. Rutgar ended up there with Milly, this young Indian/English lady he has met on and off over the last 5 years whilst she has been traveling. They were both so enamored with Edward. they each gave him $2000 to build cabanas. This will cut their trip short but the guy had nothing, they got a lifetime invite there and it was their first project together. Rutgar is cutting his trip short by a few months, so he can go live in London with Milly to give their relationship a chance. It will be a test as they have always met while traveling. A pretty cool story. I wished him the best of luck.

At the Costa Rican/Nicaraguan border, we disembarked with all our luggage and had to go through baggage checks. In the queues, Costa Rican money changers offered us 18.2/18.50 Cordobas for a dollar but the locals, told me wait until the Nicaraguan side, for 19 Cordobas. At the Nicaraguan side, when it came to going into the room for our baggage check, there was a man at the entrance. Beside him was a traffic light just red and green. He examined our papers. Monica, an Austria who had been helping us, she wsa before me and was told to press the green button, I was next. Both of us assumed that meant we could go to have our bags checked. However this actually meant we were free to go back to our bus. What a system. We were in Nicaragua.

About 1.5 hrs later, we were in Rivas. I was not expecting to get there so fast so was not prepared. I was out in the street before I knew it being hassled by kids trying to sell me hammocks and a taxi driver who wanted t$20 dollars to take me to San Juan del Sur. I declined and thought, was I nuts to decline. I was in a one street town and had no idea where the bus station etc. was with a huge rucksack in the heat. Hmmm I just walked to the right, as I saw the Tica bus agency and thought I can at least ask them where the station is. Some kindly locals pointed down the street, I had no clue what they were saying but I walked. I then asked this girl waiting for a bus, where the station for San Juan was. The girl said here.

Taxis came every few minutes but no bus. However, one taxi came and the girl got in after asking him about San Juan. I figured I might as well do the same, so asked him the price. In a quiet voice he told me $3. Which I am sure was more than the local paid but at least it wasn’t $20. 2 more chaps got into the back along the route. The road was a mass of potholes and trenches but was being repaired. I think this was after the big storm from the hurricane that was here a few weeks ago and caused major landslides which prevented buses coming into Costa Rica from the south side of Panama. I delivered at my chosen hostel (Hospadaje Elizabeth). I booked in.


It is weird but since Panama, I am feeling more alienated from the gringo set. I have not met many other travellers that come close to my age. Most are about half. There are many times I feel so old. It may have even got worse since my birthday. Can it make that much of a difference? Who knows!!

A lot of tourists here are also only here for a few weeks. So I didn’t really feel like mixing with them.I was going to choose another place. However, when I went to look the next day, I didn’t bother moving. One choice was the main hostel (Casa Oro) which is full of 20somethings all way too bubbly and some of the conversations seemed so inane, I just couldn’t face it. OR various hostels again with much the same clientele. Or maybe it is just me. So I gave up for another day.

I am enjoying the quiet time and I want to do some Spanish lessons. I wandered around and checked San Juan out. It has a magnificent horseshoe shaped bay, where waves just roll in a horseshoe shape up to the shore. There are a few restaurants lined along the shore many with thatched roofs but it is relatively low key. However, the amount of expats that are/have moved in is phenomenal. I checked the realty agencies. Some developments offer 200 homes and 320 condos. That is just one and there are several of these. Many gated. To be fair it is not obvious walking around the centre of town. Except of course the variety of westernish, up market restaurants that charge closer to US prices than Nicaraguan.

Last night coming back to the room was depressing. Though, clean, the rooms etc, have bare unpainted floorboards, the walls need a good paint job. The shower is literally a pipe coming from the wall, with no shower head. The water, whilst not having the greatest volume, also tends to stop after 5 minutes, necessitating turning on/ off the shower, before continuing. AND the water is COLD, not tepid, COLD. I am so not a cold shower person. I thought I must leave.

This morning when the owner heard I was Irish, I was carted off to the freezer to be shown a large can of Guinness that one of the guests left as a present. He was so sweet. It thought oh bugger, I can’t leave now.

I was looking for Spanish schools and this lady in one motioned me to come over. There was just something about the school and the price was right, I signed up for a few days. I was introduced to Lorgia Castello, a lovely 29 year old mother of 2. She talks really clearly and slowly and I can actually have a conversation in Spanish. Very Basic yes but at least I can converse. It felt nice. We got straight into it and I learned the present tense. Three hours later I was still ok.

As part of the learning experience we have conversations in between teaching. I am learning a lot about Nicaragua. She told me, her son was 9, her daughter nearly 4. I expressed surprise, she told me, she was old compared to a lot of girls, getting pregnant at the moment. This is not just due to experimentation and ignorance but also due to abuse inside and out side the home and is very sad… The law does not protect these young girls or indeed women from domestic violence, even if the laws do, they are not upheld. A

fter class, when I returned to the hospedaje, the owner dragged me back out to the porch to meet an “amigo”. He was Irish. Ha ha. I thought it was just the Guinness can but this Dubliner, who’s Spanish was better than mine, told me the owner has relatives in Galway and had been there a few months ago and fell in love with Ireland. What can I say? As I am a sucker for that stuff, I stayed. But I think I am not the only one suckered in, there are now 2 Irish guys here.

Later I went into a bar/restaurant that served Mexican food. The food was not so good but I got chatting to Jeff, from the US, now living in Mexico. He had married an English girl and lived in London for years but when that failed he moved ot Mexico as he was fed up with the US. He was now motor biking home after biking from Mexico through Central America and South America for 7 months. He was trying to avoid Honduras where he knew, at one particular road, the local police were going to stop him to extort money illegally. He had heard about it on a bike website, but on his way down he still got done for $60.

Sometimes the water supply just stops. I had flushed but there was not enough water to push things through, as they say. Oh god the embarrassment. I kept trying to flush the toilet but only a dribble of water came each time. I was sweating with embarrassment, I was dreading leaving, as I would have to explain to the persons whose footsteps I could hear. It thought about what to do and decided on getting a bucket and water and pouring it down. I came out of the toilet. Phew! No one was waiting. I went in search of a bucket. Luckily, I found one. That meant at least I didn’t have to empty the bin, with all the toilet paper. Alas, I tried the water. Oh the horror of it. No water came. Not a drop. My heart sank.


After about 10 minutes the water returned, I threw a bucket of water down the toilet and all was well. Phew... The sheer relief.

While I was washing my teeth I got distracted by this spider and ant. The spider was the same length as the ant but 2-3 times the width. The ant was trying to run away but the spider ran around the ant at such a fast pace, the ant could not escape or sting. Within a few minutes, the spider succeeded in making the ant so dizzy, it could carry it off to its web. I didn’t realize spiders did that.

After 3 days of 3hr lessons, I booked up for the 5 days program. 4 hrs/day. I then went to Playa Madera. Casa Oro runs a shuttle there and back each day. The road is ROUGH!! It is a nice beach where the waves pound the beach and the surfing is pretty damn good. I have to rent a board but not until the Spanish lessons are finished. I am too knackered.

I went to a beachside restaurant for lunch. There was only one other, an elderly man, about 80, sat in the open area, eating. He beckoned me to come over and asked my name and my country. It was evident that he had had a few beers, and was still finishing one. I went back to my table and started to read. I was beckoned over again and he told me I was beautiful and then he told me he wanted me. Great! And all I wanted was a quiet lunch. Thank god he left early.
The day after, I was walking down the street, when this 60s+ gent tells me he loves me and wanted to give me a flower. I smiled said the flower was lovely and carried on.

Over the last few days, I have spent my time at Spanish class, eating, writing up my notes etc. electronically and wandering around a little of San Juan. At the moment, there is only one other student. Sarah, a high school student from Montana USA. She is the sweetest girl. She has done a fair bit of travelling even though she is only 17. This year she is here in Nicaragua for 1 month to study Spanish, learn to surf and volunteer. She is staying at a home stay with a local family. I was offered that but I could t bare not having control over what I eat or when I eat. So declined.

We had a chat about her homestay. There is a girl there that has been taken in as her mother cannot support her. She is 10. Sarah is helping her with her homework as no one else does and the girl has fallen behind as her schooling was limited before she came to live at the homestay. They have provided the girl with a lot but they make her work like a servant and the poor thing doesn’t get time to play. So Sarah takes her for ice-cream and a play in the park when the mother of the house is at church. At least the child will have some fun while Sarah is around. Sarah also told me about these 2 strange ladies one with a chimpanzee. I have yet to see them.

During one of our conversations, Lorgia told me about her husbands, sisters 6 kids. The sister lives in Costa Rica, but drinks a lot and goes with me. She has basically abandoned her 6 kids. I am not sure what happened the 2 girls but the 4 boys were taken in by Lorgia,s husband’s brother. Now this brother, his wife, and their own 2 kids and the other 4 kids, all share one room. I think there are many families like this.

To give you a further idea of things here. Lorgia workers for this Spanish language school. Today they asked her to become a member of their cooperative. This is a great opportunity for her. All she has to do is contribute $270. Not much you would think that should be easy. Well no it is not. Her dad earns money from renting some of his house to phone call centre. But claims to have no money. I thought that was so selfish. He gave her brother money without even questioning.

So this means she needs a loan. Except the bank requires so much proof etc of earnings and paperwork. Lorgia went to her room and cried. Her mom then suggested that she try and get the loan. They tried but the bank has to come see their house to see if they have enough to cover the loan should they not pay back… It will cost $33 each month for a year to pay back this $270. That makes it about a 50% interest rate. How can anyone try to set up a business or buy or build anything. Everything is stacked against them. I saw the same thing in Panama. The last I heard was the bank manger didn’t bother turning up on Friday, as planned. Lorgia only has until Monday to get the money. I tried looking for her today but couldn’t get hold of her. So I don’t know what happened.

One afternoon, Carmine, the lovely lady who had beckoned me into the school, and Lorgia organized salsa and meringue lessons for Sarah and I at the school all for $6 each. It is there way of making a bit of extra cash and I don’t resent it. Oh we had a laugh. They are such lovely people. 3 little girls joined us too. Not sure I learned much steps but we had fun.

The heat here in the afternoons is deadly. We have not had much rain. When it does rain it can be torrential but it is nice to have the cloud. I tend to go to internet cafes, usually the same one. I often see the owner, an honest chap, give lessons in computers to the locals. One evening, a girl on his staff was writing a letter for this older man, looked about 90 bless. Anyway he says something to me but I had no idea so just smiled. God knows what I smiled at.

Next evening he comes over and says hi again then shows me his gold chain with the face of christ hanging off it. This was no medal, but a blooming great hunk of gold. It must have been 22, carat as it was quiet yellow. He was very proud of it, and kept touching my arm to tell me. Although quite sweet about it. I said it was beautiful. I have very limited vocabulary... The next evening he was there again. He may have told me I was lovely but I'm not sure. But the sweet little man seems to like me anyway.

Later, the old lady with the chimpanzee came in. Yes a chimpanzee. She carries it around in her arms. It is as big as a 6 month old baby. AND she puts a nappy on it. I swear it is like a child. The lady is about 70 if she is a day and from the US. Sarah had told me about her. There is another one too and they hang out together and dress similarly. I have found sometimes that places like this attracts strange people that sometimes don’t fit into normal society but in a strange way fit in, in places like this. Hmm probably why I like it here...



Yesterday, Carmine and David, another teacher brought Sarah and I up to the highest point in town overlooking the harbour/beach. To get to the vista, we had to cross the San Juan river. There was a rope about 3 feet above the river going from the bank we were on to the other side. This 10 year old, pulled himself and the boat he was in, over to us, using the rope. We loaded onto the boat and our little ferryman ferried us across. Of course we didn’t pay him til we got to the other side… There, an older gentleman took the money and pocketed it. I hope the child saw some of it but I doubt it.

The vista was stunning. We also saw the other side of town in more ways than one. This is where many villas have been built, including swimming pools etc. Apparently there are many Canadians here and Germans, as well as Americans. NICE HOUSES

As Carmine was a cousin of one of the cleaners, we got to look into one of the houses. It was tastefully decorated with lovely features. The front wall was a wooden door that surrounded the whole front of the house with portholes in the door sections. The doors could be folded back to completely expose the living room to the vista below and their swimming pool. Nice if you can have it.

As we were climbing the hills and more so when we were descending, we saw hundreds of these orange/red and purple crabs. I had always thought crabs live on the beach but no. Some live here up in the hills. They can climb walls and trees. Each evening towards sunset they line the paved road up to the view point. You can hear their claws on the tarmac. Like nails on a blackboard. Give me an idea for a new horror movie, “Revenge of Killer Crabs”… It was a bit creepy. Glad I was not there in the dark. On seeing them, Sarah said it gave her a whole new idea if road kill.

Islands in the sun... or er em rain. Bocos del Toro...

23May
Early next morning, we got the bus back to David, then onto Changuinola to go to the islands of Bocos del Toro. We met this fab couple who were staying in Bocos del Toro who helped us tremendously. They advised going to Almiralty not Changuinola, as boats were every thirty minutes rather than every few hours. So we followed with them.

We got off the bus and in seconds our bags were taken by these young boys, by this time the couple had procured a taxi and our bags were deposited in this. Of course the boys wanted a tip, which we gave, even if we didn't request their help. They were there in the pouring rain and deserved it. Of course we had a repeat of this, at the dock. The boat waited for us and off we sped to Bocos del Toro, the capital of the islands of the same name. The view from the boat was superb, though limited as we had to peer out of the plastic covering protecting us from the heavy downpour. It was phenomenal though, with the couples help, we were off the bus and on Bocos del toro, all in about 40 minutes, with about 3 minute gaps between all the different transports. Result!!!

We had taken the precaution of pre-booking, the hospedaje; Casa Veranda, a 10 min walk from the dock. I was curious about the owner as she sounded drunk on the phone. However, it turns out she had had a stroke as I found out later.

Our room was the best in the house. It was a bright room with light blue painted wooden walls. Lots of windows and oh so clean. The ensuite was clean, spacious and with hot water. Bliss! The hospedaje was a very nicely maintained colonial gem a short distance from most things. at a rate of $34, it was the most expensive place but, we deserved it for Robert's last few days and to make up for Casa Grande and to a lesser extent Casa Viejo.
We found a lovely restaurant called Lemongrass which served Asian fusion food. Oh to have spiced food again. Yummmmmmy. We ended up eating there quite a few times including our last day. We spent the first day around the town and walked to the nearest beach. We realised why no one was there and used the boats etc. to go elsewhere. Bocos is little town, the main street has many backpacker restaurants, hostels etc. The area along the waterfront is covered in restaurants and cafes, mostly geared at the tourist or expat. Again there are lots of Americans here and again they are buying lots of property and developing it into gated developments, exclusive resorts, private homes etc...

It is a pretty place tho and very laid back. Although the daily rainy season downpours around 3-4ish, limit the time we can explore. I could stay for a while here and thought about coming back when Robert left but decided I am revisiting too many places so didn't return.

The waterfront restaurants are on stilts, with the road facing section covered and then a deck over the water. The Caribbean meets New Orleans. This decking, of course extends the amount of space available for lounging and tables.

One hotel had a lovely separate gazebo over the water, a little 2 tabled affair, extended via a little bridge from the deck/restaurant. Most afternoons, we took advantage of the shelter offered there, from the heavy downpours, to read our books/partake of a few beverages/snacks. The view was always interesting. the neighbouring establishments, the other islands, the boats picking up or delivering people or goods and of course the facinating rain. After outstaying our welcome, we usually moved to another waterfront restaurant, not too far away, so we didn't get too wet.

To get to our hotel, we have to pass Mondo Taitu, this is the main backpacker hostel in town, although there are a few others, including its sister, that give it a run for its money. However, this wins due to the presence of a packed bar each evening with patrons, attracted by cheap drinks, theme nights and the knowledge that most of the young twenty something's are going to be there. We felt too old to go in, even though we were tempted, as most other places in town died after 9pm. Bocos has many older people but none seem to be backpackers just residents or tourists. I feel my age difference here more than most places.

Next day we got a boat from Bocos to Red Frog Beach, which apparently is going to be Dead Frog Beach, as a new resort has started to build and the poisonous, Red Dart Frogs, which gave the beach its name, are in danger of disappearing. A Pity as it is lovely. It was great zipping across the water, in this high powered wooden passenger boat for 10 min. We then had to walk a little path through the forest, to the uncrowded beach (maybe 15 people). It was lovely and we stayed for a few hours. as the rains start about 4, we ended up in our favourite cafe, drinking juices/cocktails and reading, until dark, then we dined until the rain stopped. Very laid back and chilled.

Next day we zipped along again to another beach. This time we were dropped off at Old bank, the capital of Isla Bastimentos and told to follow the path. At times we were dubious we were on the right path. The 15 min hike was a bit rough, as much of the ground was muddy, slippery and downhill. Our reward was Wizard beach, a lovely secluded place with maybe 10 people.

At about 2.30 we left, as we know the rain usually starts about 4 and the hike back would take hours, if we got caught in the torrential rain. However, we were lucky, as the rain just started early, as we got to the dock. There was no boat, so we went to the Red Rooster restaurant next to the dock on the water front. This waterfront restaurant was like all the others, i.e. on stilts etc. However, this was constructed in unpainted wood. The furniture was as rustic and basic, as the construction. Thre were various roosters here and there. The owners were an American and his wife to be, a local. They were really nice and chatty. While we snacked and drank, a man from the infamous local band "The Castaways", formerly known as the "beach Boys", took out his guitar and entertained us with slightly bawdy local reggae songs such as "if your mother and wife were drowning, who would you save?". He then played and sung Bob Marley and Bob Dylan. It was really lovely there and I had wished we had more time and could have stayed a few days here.

Bastimentos is very poor, much poorer than Bocos, with a more authentic Caribbean, untouched vibe. You can see a little of the differences between the fotos from the Red Rooster of Old bank and the fotos above of Bocas.

On the way back I got to chat to this chap who is a professional surfer from Bocas and represents Panama.His nickname is filipone or something like that. I tried searching for it so maybe he made it up but he was a really interesting chap, had a tiny surfboard and knew about Caitlin, the owner of our hospedaje and told me that she had a stroke and that also she liked the old bottle a bit too much.

That evening we decided we had to go to a bar. We ended up in, what is locally known, as the wreck deck. The bar/club has the earthbound road section and its decking on stilts. There are decking sections, interlinked by little bridges. The decking and tables etc. surround sections of exposed water, where you can view the sunken, rusty banana boat, in it's watery grave, highlighted by strategically placed lamps. You also get to watch the little fish swimming around the wreck, whilst sipping your Cuba Libre. It provides probably the most unusual /individual decorative accessory, I have seen in any bar.

26thMay
t was time to leave Bocas. We wandered around time and saw some of what we had missed or forgotten from our first forays and it would have been so nice to have had more time. We even found the Starfish Cafe, which was a cool cafe with lovely nibbles and a nice deck, where we read for a while.

It is a pity we had gone to El Valle as I think more time here would have been better spent. But such is life. At 5pm after 30 min delay, we got on the Panama Airlines 20 seater little plane, that was to return us to Panama City. Again, we struggled to get a taxi for even a fair price, but we were their hostages and it was again pouring from he heavens. We got to our pre-booked hotel with the rather over glamorously named Hotel Acapulco, Calle 30, in the business district. That evening we got a taxi to Calle Uruguay. The hot street for bars and restaurant. We had a delightful upmarket meal of Falafel, hummus, and kebabs. Robert had never tried a hookah pipe, so we ordered one with mixed fruit tobacco. It was quite nice but after 20 min or so we got bored of it. We waked around a bit to investigate somewhere for tomorrow night and got a taxi home for of course more than the official price. It was a really nice evening.

Next day we explored the Allbrook shopping mall againand just had to get a foto of these great local buses...The art on some are just incredible.

28May
We breakfasted, interneted, then it was time for Robert to fly home. It was quite weird to be alone again after being with someone 24/7.

It was really lovely to have someone to have proper conversations with, rather than "the what is your name and where do you come" from set. Not that I mind those but I really need less superficial conversations too. We had some really good ones and share a lot of common ground. We spoke about the book he bought me for my birthday: The Tipping point among others and he filled me in on what is happening in the western worked during my absence. I have missed a lot. We debated and chatted a lot. It was just really good.

28May

Alone again Naturally... I set off to Luna's Castle. I figured I would book into the dorm in Luna's, as it was familiar and busy, which of course it was. It was like going back to a friend, rather than a gloomy empty hotel room. I quickly settled in to having my pancakes each morning and sorting my mail etc. out. Although there was still a big gap which is taking a while to fill. It is nice and I need a bit of solitary time to think and plan. I haven't really had a lot since I started in Jan.

Panama is not just a canal you know...

15May
Well today is my birthday and at least I am in a much better town than I was 2 years ago and I will have company. Robert arrives today.

I left Chris and the boys and moved back to Casca Viejo. I mooched around during the day sorting things out, then returned to my room to await Roberts text. He finally arrived about 8.30, exhausted. He had not had sleep since about 3.30 am yesterday morning. He had 2 stops one in London and one in Miami. However in Miami he had to take all his bags and go through customs even though he was just transferring. This took hours of course and was incredibly disorganised. What a ridiculous set up and waste of time and money for a transfer.

After a short rest, we went off in search of this jazz bar, mentioned in a Luna's Cafe leaflet. It was my birthday!!!

It was also just around the corner. We paid our $3 entrance fee, which included one glass Sangria. After walking down this dark, little corridor, we were suddenly in this rather large, dimly lit courtyard. In the top left hand corner was a makeshift bar, behind which were a couple of wooden wall mounted shelves, unpainted, a similar counter top and a fridge. Drinks were limited to sangria or beer. The stage, was a foot high affair to the left of the "bar". Scattered large plants, were strewn with fairy lights and seats were upturned paint buckets. Our table was a plank of wood over another upturned bucket. It was rustic. All under the stars, with the surrounding buildings enjoying the view. It was the coolest bar I have been to in a long time.

The music was mellow lounge jazz that evoked a 50's/60's Parisian joint, minus the cigarette smoke. We had arrived early at 10pm, so managed to get a seat. We sipped our free sangria and let the mellowness reign. It was just what Robert needed considering his day and it was a nice place to have a b´day drink. At about 11pm, the band came on, including a double base. The mellow jazz vibe remained. This would be so good to have in london. It was a nice introduction to Panama City.

Over the next few days, exploring Casco Viejo (the old city), we found that there is an amazing amount of renovation. Panama is the place to be right now for property investment. Money is pouring in and the old city is beginning to blossom and bear fruit, which is further encouraging investment. However, this tends to be centred around Calle 1 etc. up to 9 and not all streets in between.

The buildings that are renovated stand out like a rose among some pretty weeds. They are beautifully renovated and you get a view of what the city may have been like 100-200 years ago. Many other buildings are ramshackle and near collapse, but have a fading beauty, with the remnants of their grand beautifully carved balconies and shutters taunting the future developer. Robert said it reminded him of Havana. There are many tourists/expats here, mostly American. This of course has attracted a gourmet supermarket, some bijou cafes and arty shops, that would not look out of place on the kings road in London.

In-between is the odd ruin that sometimes houses some gentlemen watching futbol on tv. How they get the electricity for this is a mystery. Sometimes they are workers repairing the building, others are squatters. In the habitable run down mansions, you see a group of teenagers or perhaps local mothers, standing in the street, peering over the half door into a living room, watching a movie or some soap, enjoying the generosity of a wealthier neighbour, sharing their good fortune. See street foto.

On Friday and Saturday evenings, you can feel the pulsating energy of the locals, as they celebrate the weekend. The volume of their boom boxes pounding out salsa and raggaeton, is raised to deafening levels, in various households. Passing by, you can practically feel the ground throb in time to the music. Some houses seem to be gathering points, selling alcohol or snacks. There is laughter and dancing and you can sense you are in Latin America.

However wandering up past Calle 11, you can sense a different vibe. More bodies lying prostrate in the doorways. Girls in the shortest of shorts, wandering around with no obvious purpose, at certain corners. Dodgy looking characters, near a bar offering ladies night. Add to that the increased dirt, smells and general unkemptness, with a sense of sleeping danger and you get a better picture of what the more touristy part of Casco Viejo was a while back before prosperity hit and the requisite security guards patrolled. Restaurants veer from the local lady cooking from her skanky kitchen and selling her offerings over her half door, to the upmarket decadent $80 for 2 affair, with satin napkins.

Robert and I like our food, so sampled a few of the more salubrious establishments. One night we ate at one of the poshest. Oh it was good. We had a fabulous temder mouth watering steak, with perfectly cooked vegetables and quaffed a glorious rich merlot. It was the best meal I have had since I got to Latin America. Yet we paid $10 for some fruit salad, cake, juice and coffee in this bijou cafe, each. Prices depend on how much you will pay. Some good restaurants are for the tourist, some for the tourist and affluent locals. Expat money has totally changed the face of this area in the last 4 years. This city however, would still be disintegrating if not for it.
16May
We got at taxi to Miraflores. This is one of the locks on the Panama canal and is nearest to Panama City. Luckily the Our luck was in. There was a gynormous cruise ship, Disney Magic, in the first part of the lock. I didn't know Disney world had cruises but they do. It even had Mickey Mouse waving and cheering. Also at the back of the ship was goofy glued onto it. There was a great atmosphere. The ship´s guests, lined along the railings, waving and cheering to those looking on from the lock platform. You could sense the excitement of those onboard. It really is a once in a lifetime thing, to go through the Panama Canal. I have to admit it was pretty cool even in a kitsch way. The actual mechanics of the lock were pretty impressive too. The ship enters a lock that is quite high up. Once the lock is full of water, the gates are opened and these little mechanical engines, like mini trains pull the ship into the next lock that is lower. This fills and then the boat is then released into the next part of the canal. We watched this and another huge cargo ship pass through. Then ventured to the museum to learn more facts of this tremendous development. See foto of Disney cruise ship.

The next day we got a taxi to the Causaway. This is a long road that was constructed between 4 small islands near Panama City. Along the road are restaurants and bars and you can hire bikes etc. We got stuck in one of these for a few hours while it bucketed with rain, which strangely enough is fascinating to watch, helped along by some wine and beer. I took some black and white fotos of this to play with my camera. See black and white foto.

18th May
El Valle a little town in the mountains, was reputed to have a sunday market, with 3 local tribes selling their handicrafts which inspired us to visit. We got a bus from Albrook Bus terminal. It was a bit of a squeeze, as the local buses are a bit smaller than coaches. We got to town about noon. Got a place right across from where the bus stopped. Just as we were walking in Jeremiah appeared. He was one of my sailing mates from Colombia. It was really good to see him. However, conversation was stilted as his English and my Spanish are about the same. i.e. not good.

The market was in full swing. It was disappointing however, as most of the indigenous people were not in their traditional clothes and many of the trinkets for sale were typical tourist items. Although there were some nice things too, but it was not quite what we expected and in retrospect we could have skipped it. After 30 minutes we tired or the market and lunched heartily for a couple of dollars each.

We were given a map by the hotel owner and so went off in search of the hot springs. Thirty minutes later we found them. It consisted of a fenced in green area. In one corner stood 2 pots of mud, a pale mud and a dark mud and a mirror all surrounded by concrete seating. We were instructed that we were to put the mud on our face, only. Then to wash it off after it dried. We joined others, in the face plastering or the drying phase. We waited and amused ourselves by taking fotos. The hot springs, were 2 concrete pools into which poured very warm water from the surrounding volcanic region. We sank into it's murky depths, then rinsed off under the cold shower. That was the hot springs experience. It was amusing.

We got back to the hotel and after dinner, ascended the stairs to the roof terrace with our bottle of wine. We met these 4 guys who were a mix of German, French and Austria. They had all met studying Spanish in Spain, whilst in university. We had a nice chat with them, then as we were knackered from our strenuous activities, we went to bed.

Next morning we decided to hike to one of the waterfalls. After an hour and a few false leads, we eventually found the trail to the waterfall. It was hot, so tiring. The view though was lovely as we were surrounded by trees sprouting from the hillsides. At one stage this Granny and her grandchildren passed us out, as did this mother and her daughter. I guess we need to get fitter. Just about 1.30 we felt rain so rushed back to town. We didn't quite make it so stood in this doorway for 30 or so minutes, watching the most torrential rain. We figured we got the most out of El Valle and got the bus out of there.

We got back to Panama about 6 and perused the shopping mall. We then got a taxi to Casco Viejo. I didn't ask the price of the taxi beforehand, as normally you just hand 2 dollars which is more than enough for 2 people and drivers are usually happy with this. If you ask then you show you don't know. This is what I was told. But not this time. Our driver started yelling at us that it was 5 dollars. I said no it was 2. He threatened to call the police. So being miss stubborn and pissed off with this attitude from someone driving a rather new car not the bangers many of the others drove, I told him to go ahead, I would wait. Strangely enough he then took out some leaflet, indicating that it was 3 dollars from Allbrook. I said it wasn't but he wouldn´t let it go. Eventually to shut him up I gave him the extra dollar and was then annoyed at myself for giving in to such aggression which will of course encourage him to do it again. The ones in the bangers never seem to cause trouble and are often more polite. After that I tensed when ever it came to taking taxis. Robert wanted to ask the price but that didn't get us anywhere either as many taxis just laughed at us when we refused to pay 2 or 3 times the amount. I didn't have this problem before Robert came but then there were 4 of us. Maybe because Robert looks wealthier than we did, or we had really bad luck with drivers.

We had left our luggage in Casco Viejo hostel, but when we got there, they were booked out. So we headed to Lunas, of course they were booked too. Although bless them, they offered us a couch, if we couldn't find a bed. We were not having a good evening. We then noticed this place called Casa Grande, as we were desperate and it was getting late we booked in. It might have been big, huge in fact and was once a beautiful mansion but not for the last 50 or so years. Those property development programs would have had a field day...

We went back to get our bags from Casco Viejo hostel but when the owner heard where we were staying, he said don't stay there. It sells rooms by the hour and houses crack heads etc. He recommended this other place but it was too late, we had booked and paid and we felt for some bizarre reason to rise to the challenge. He advised us to leave our bags with him until the morning. So we did. We then went to a very nice restaurant facing onto the square for dinner and a few drinks to help us face our new abode.

In Casa Grande, the receptionist resided behind an iron cage. There were 2 gates to enter the hostel, each only opened from within the den. She then had another door barred, protecting her from the guests, or it could be the other way around from the look of her. Not a good omen.

We entered with extreme trepidation, especially the toilets. The toilets may have seen better days but I doubt it. The walls were stained by those that had run out of paper, toilet paper that is or maybe pen and ink. I kept waiting for the cockroaches to rear their ugly heads and feelers. But no, I didn't see any. Oh thank god. That would have been too insufferable.

The external concrete sinks made me retch a bit when I was cleaning my teeth but were usable. The bed, ah yes, god knows what activities it had seen. I looked at the sheets, they were stained and a bit torn but thank goodness, had been washed. However, the kind owners had provided a new packaged roll of toilet paper and a fresh packaged bar of soap. A hell of a lot more than other hostels provide and all this for only $7. A bargain. Er I think...

I don't know if I or Robert have ever ever stayed in a place so bad. I felt sorry for Robert, here he was on his annual 2 week holiday and this is what he had to resort to. He took it amazingly well.

We got an ok nights sleep. Amazing considering that I felt at any moment we were to be awoken by some crack head beating down the door to rob the gringos, he heard were staying here. Or awoken by some prostitute berating her client for not paying. But nothing all was calm and peaceful.

20May
The next morning, all we saw was some poor family, with the dad washing his toddler in the shower. I felt so sorry that this family was perhaps having the family holiday in this dingy hotel or forced to live here. Then again there are some living in much much worse and this would be considered luxurious. I think the hotel has a bad rep perhaps not deserved, considering it was top of the heap but one, in the lonely planet 2004 version or maybe we just got lucky.

Either way we got out of there fast. Robert choose not to even shave. We did the bare minimum and were gone. We had to get a taxi but with no issue to Allbrook and got the bus to Panama´s second city, David. Shockingly easy, we got the connecting bus to Boquete. This time we took the precaution of booking over the phone. We could not face another night like last night.

We ascended into the clouds and arrived in Boquete. Boquete is in the middle of the mountainous coffee plantation area, about 1200-1300m above sea level. It is wet 9 months of the year. However, it has now become the new miami. By this I mean it has become the retirement centre for many Americans and some Europeans. This is all due to some acclaimed International retirement magazine who voted it the 4th best city to retire in. They, needless to say,forgot to mention the rain.

Prices have sky rocketed and even the price of a pineapple is 3 times that in David. This is causing major problems to the local population, as they are forced out of their town and are forced to pay extortionate prices for their food, due to the influx of these wealthy grey gringos. Having spoken to a few of the locals, I got a feeling of resentment although not at the tourists, as they come, they spend, they leave. Tourists bring in money but don't affect the local economy so much. Ha the sore point is, that many of these retirees and expats that moved in a few years ago, now find that actually they don't like so much rain or are bored senseless, as there really is to not a great deal to do in Boquete, if you don't like hiking in the torrential rain or watching DVDs. So when they try to sell they struggle. However new properties sold, especially over the internet or even before the new owner sees them are still going up in price. Go figure...

We got to a nice hotel but for $30. It was the only one that I could understand over the phone and had availability. We found this really nice restaurant, that served a wide variety of food. It was quite westernised but the owner was Latina, so may have lived in the US etc. We feasted over a shared steak, lovely vegetables and even had wine and dessert... I am so spoiling myself.

21MayNext day we moved hotels so this took up the morning. We found a place for half the price and still quite nice. At midday it rained ferociously and didn't stop. We found a restaurant for lunch then, pottered around the shops while the rain was light. Checked out this really nice cafe that apparently runs coffee plantation tours. We didn't have the best nights sleep so were really sluggish next day. As a result, by the time we were ready to do anything, it was midday and raining again. We hadn't realised that it rains every day around midday. If we had known...

We had wanted to do a long hike but this was impossible. Even if we headed off at 6am, we would not be back before midday and it was too dangerous to be hiking the volcano once the cloud came down, as you get lost. We had to make do with a jaunt around the outskirts, see attached foto.

To compensate, we arranged for an 8am Canopy tour for our last day. The 4wheel drive truck took ups up further to the mountains and the national park. We got to see a bit ot the country side as we got lucky with the weather.

WE got to the camp, which is to be their new hotel. It was a beautiful setting, high on the hill with a fabulous view of nautre at her greenest.

We were strapped into our harnesses and helmets and given a brief demo. Basically, there is a wooden platform tied onto a huge tree about 10 feet from the bottom of the tree. There are 14 trees with these platforms on this tour. There is a steel cable going from one of these trees to another. You stand on the platform, get hooked onto the wire and then you zip/speed along the wire from the platform you are on, to the platform of the next tree and so on. Often you are over a 100 feet above ground, treetops, rivers or even waterfalls, strapped to a wire. Great view!!!! You have a very tough garden glove on each hand, with a thick leather bit in the palm area. You put your hand over the wire and use that to brake. We had a private tour. Oh Great! I really didn't think I could do the first one. Throwing myself off nice stable areas into the unknown is not one of my talents. The guide telling all these things to remember and I am thinking how are I going to remember these. But I went and rammed the next tree, as I couldn't break. However I then got too good at braking and for the next few wires I stopped a little too far away from the platform and had to haul myself to it. But I eventually got the hang of it and we had a great few hours skimming over the treetops and rivers. Robert seemed to take it all in his stride, even though he has a fear of heights and gets this weird thing where he wants to jump off. Hmm maybe that´s why he liked it.

The guides were brilliant and chatty and said they liked it when the group was small, as they got a chance to talk and not have to rush everyone through as often they will have 2 groups of 20. The final Piece de resistance was the tarzan swing... I could have resisted... Again we were harnessed to this rope, hung off this tree. We then had to jump off this platform and swing. However, there was a bit of a drop once you came off the platform AND I hate it when my stomach comes up to my mouth. But it was ok. The drop looked a hell of a lot worse than it was. So we did it again.

We rushed lunch and strode up to cafe ruiz for our Coffee plantation tour. They put on a tour for us again a private one but didnt charge us extra. Carlos was our guide. Wow what a guide. He was so knowledgeable and just so lovely with superb English. He started coming to the plantation when he was 10 and has been here 25 years. This was before there were laws against underage unemployment.

The plantation is owned my Senor Ruiz, a genteel 86 year old. The coffee season lasts 6 months, as each bean is hand picked and only when ripe. The local Indigenous tribe come every year to do this. The work is hard but pays relatively well. Carlos started with coffee bean picking, now gives tours and generally works at each thing around the plantation except picking. He gave us a good quote too. In Boquette, they call Nescafe, No es cafe. Made us laugh!!

I learned so much about Coffee. We even got to meet Senor Ruiz. He is such a lovely man and was so welcoming. He was testing out his new air rifle (he used to hunt but his wife wanted him to stop so...) and was bemonaing the fact that it was crap, as it was made in China. We had a good chat about things made in China and he explained a little about bean quality and the emblem on his companies bags. All in all, we spent 3.5 hours there and even got a little bag with some goodies. We both loved the tour and it was a highlight of the whole trip to Panama and really opened our eyes. Who would have thought.